larger tires on a Scamp

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Keith2000

That is good to hear. I thought they were immune to improvements.

Jalousie windows, big bed option in the 13'er, new cabinet finish and hardware, new screen door, powered vent fan replacing tip-out window in bath models, bolt-on axle… and that's just in the last few years. Whether all the changes are for the better is debatable, but it's certain they're happening!

The basic shape and concept remain the same, but details evolve, kind of like the old VW Beetles.

[Darral T.]

I can agree with the bed option...maybe the screen door (we like our bi-fold screen door)...but WHY the bathroom window???? We have the tip out window and I would NOT want to be without it! It provides light and good venting when I have the Scamp upon the jackstands. If people complained to have it removed- I'm serious- I'd like to know why?

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Jalousie windows, big bed option in the 13'er, new cabinet finish and hardware, new screen door, powered vent fan replacing tip-out window in bath models, bolt-on axle… and that's just in the last few years. Whether all the changes are for the better is debatable, but it's certain they're happening!

The basic shape and concept remain the same, but details change, kind of like the old VW Beetles.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

...but WHY the bathroom window???? We have the tip out window and I would NOT want to be without it! It provides light and good venting when I have the Scamp upon the jackstands. If people complained to have it removed- I'm serious- I'd like to know why?

I understood that is was because the bathroom window was prone to leak. I can't confirm that however. What I can confirm is that the VanAir powered roof vent they used in my side bath (instead of a window) did leak. It requires quite a bit of sealant since the roof is not flat, and in my case they left a small gap.

I thought i had it fixed but I think it is leaking again. At least the rain water goes onto the commode and shower floor and should not be a problem except for the fan it's self. If the fan gets damaged from the leak, I will just seal it up.. I dont need the vent.

[Keith2000]

So, has anyone other than Donna switched to a 45 degree down angle to fit in bigger tires?

Is that a common approach to the issue?

Are there downsides? Harsher ride, etc?

[Cowboy Joel 69]

Greetings from Tucson and a Tin Horn Scamp 13 Wannabe. I'm looking for a very used Scamp 13 in need of a total rebuild. I have the shop space and skills to handle all aspects - I just don't have the experience to gauge the outcome. I have a 2011 Jeep JKU 4-dr Sahara and would like to have my rebuild on a Scamp 13 include modifications to house an axel with the Jeep 5 X 5 lug pattern and house the same 18" stock rims and Cooper tires. I know it will require chassis and body mods (and maybe fender flares), but if I can do it all is there any reason it won't work on the road? Thanks to all who may comment.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by Cowboy Joel 69

Greetings from Tucson and a Tin Horn Scamp 13 Wannabe. I'm looking for a very used Scamp 13 in need of a total rebuild. I have the shop space and skills to handle all aspects - I just don't have the experience to gauge the outcome. I have a 2011 Jeep JKU 4-dr Sahara and would like to have my rebuild on a Scamp 13 include modifications to house an axel with the Jeep 5 X 5 lug pattern and house the same 18" stock rims and Cooper tires. I know it will require chassis and body mods (and maybe fender flares), but if I can do it all is there any reason it won't work on the road? Thanks to all who may comment.

That sounds like a pretty ambitious project. There was a Scamp 19 (gooseneck) for sale a while back in Utah that was completely redone for heavy-duty off-road use, including a raised chassis riding on an independent suspension. Not sure where it was sourced, but one option is a Timbren independent suspension.

Here's a link to an article: Off-Road Scamp 19 Project. It's a bit over-the-top, but it might get your creative juices flowing!

Beyond frame and suspension, a weakness you may want to address in your rebuild is the riveted attachment of interior components to the shell. I can see aluminum rivets failing and cracks forming in the fiberglass around the holes during serious off-road use. The owner of the Utah project completely redid the interior, and IIRC components were expoxied to the shell rather than riveted.

[Cowboy Joel 69]

Jon in AZ - Thanks for the quick reply and valuable comments. I'll read about the Scamp 19 rebuild and see about all that would apply to a major Scamp 13 rebuild. I can understand the comment on attachment if interior elements using rivets. The Gobi HD roof rack on my Jeep JK is mounted directly to the frame at the rear and to the metal front window mounts directly connected to the metal chassis. Other mfgs have tried mounting to the fiberglass top and failed miserably when the slightest roof load is taken of the smoothest freeway. Also, my Kevlar canoe "glassed" in wood mounting points for the seat(s) supports and cross pieces. Conformation of the idea one does NOT drill through and mount directly to fiberglass (or Kevlar).

Yes, this will be a major undertaking for the rebuild, but I'm retired now and have nothing but time, space, friends and multi-faceted construction experience. I use to say, "Too much fun, not enough time!" - now (retired) I have the time :-)

Cowboy Joel 69

[ruscal]

Joel,
Sounds like a fun project. We've got to keep ourselves occupied! Regarding your wheel swap, the tire diameter will be going up about 10" if you are going to match the Jeep. That means wheel wells and houses may have to go up around 5". You will have to check for water heater and refer clearances inside. If you intend to do hard core trails while towing you may need a pintle hook coupler too. I hope you do a build thread so we can follow your work.
Russ

[Jon in AZ]

Just to clarify, Joel... aluminum rivets have proven to be a simple, reliable, and durable way to attach fiberglass cabinets and lightweight hardware to the fiberglass shell in normal use. If installed correctly, the failure rate is acceptably low (eight years and mine hasn't had a failure yet). But for heavy-duty off-roading, with greater impact and twisting forces, I'd want something that spreads the stresses over a larger area. Epoxied (and sometimes glassed in) tabs, similar to your canoe, are used by a number of manufacturers and rehabbers.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Just to clarify, Joel... aluminum rivets have proven to be a simple, reliable, and durable way to attach fiberglass cabinets and lightweight hardware to the fiberglass shell in normal use. If installed correctly, the failure rate is acceptably low (eight years and mine hasn't had a failure yet). But for heavy-duty off-roading, with greater impact and twisting forces, I'd want something that spreads the stresses over a larger area. Epoxied (and sometimes glassed in) tabs, similar to your canoe, are used by a number of manufacturers and rehabbers.

Just get a Deluxe, the cabinets are fastened with screws, you could even add more screws.
Or just double up on the rivets on a standard.There is really no good reason to believe that gluing the cabinets would be stronger than through the hull fasteners which could be both reinforceable and repairable.

Better yet...
I've seen guys go offroad with street trucks and then wonder why the windows fell into the doors and the doors came off the hinges etc.
If I were to go offroad with a trailer I would look at an old trillium which has a rigid body which is removable from the frame ... or maybe a a Weiscraft...
http://weiscrafttrailers.com/roughneck.html

A Formula 1 car is a high tech miracle but it would not do well at BAJA, even with modifications.