lowered hitch, tongue jack too low now - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-13-2014, 06:09 AM   #29
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Name: Roamin
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Update: After using the scissors jack to assist a few times at different sites, I can say that it works but I'm not thrilled with it. On another thread someone mentioned an extra tall hitch ball. Found those on E Trailer, comes in 1" and 2" height. Hubby is concerned about strength with these, said something engineerey about being farther away from the point where it connects to the drawbar, so we are compromising and trying the 1" tall ball. I think that will be enough to make a big difference at most sites unless I sink into the ground (which does happen as I'm not usually at real campgrounds) so I'll still carry the scissors jack. Once again, this forum ROCKS!!
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:15 AM   #30
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Raising the trailer to take care of a jack issue is wrong. On the first post on the this thread you mentioned reversing the stinger and having the trailer level. Keep the trailer level and deal with the jack issue separately. Raising the ball will impact your towing.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:27 AM   #31
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lowered hitch, tongue jack too low now

I agree. If the jack is to long, just get a shorter jack. If it's ever too short, a block of wood, pile of dirt, or somebody's foot will work to get it off the hitch.

If you're intent on not replacing it for some reason, why not drive the tow vehicle up on some 2x8's, if an inch will get you by to swing the jack? It would take all of a minute to back up almost far enough, chuck a foot long 2x8 under each rear tire, and back onto them. Your setup is still stable, the jack comes down, no effort needed on your part.
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:02 AM   #32
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Name: Roamin
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Thanks for sticking with me on this saga. I believe that I will still have the trailer nose down slightly (1/2" at the point where the hitch rests on the ball) with the 1" lift ball. I did some measuring and took pics last spring. Dead level for the camper is 15" ground to top of ball. In 2011 and 2012 I was towing with a 2.25" lift drawbar and the top of the ball was at 17.5". Nose up by 2.5". In 2013 I was using a 2" drop drawbar and measured 13.5" to top of the ball, 1.5" down from level. I have not found a drawbar that is less than 2" drop, the next interval is a 3/4" rise. i tried that and the camper goes nose up again. I'm attempting to post a link to the pics ... it's post 31 in that thread. I appreciate the suggestion to back my vehicle onto some boards. I'm just not sure how much of a pain that will be when I am doing this by myself and on our uneven, grassed sites in any kind of weather.

Scamp 13' tongue weight and water tank
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:07 AM   #33
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You can always buy an adjustable stinger, to get the correct height MaxxTow Adjustable-Height Ball Mount - 2" Hitch - 10" Drop, 8" Rise - 5,000 lbs MaxxTow Ball Mounts MT70067
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:34 AM   #34
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I saw those adjustable ones, I don't think I have clearance for that with my tailgate. Thanks though. Do people think the 1" lift ball is a really bad idea if the trailer is still level or nose down?
Hitch Ball Standard Ball 2 Inch Diameter Ball High Rise Ball Balls | etrailer.com
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Old 03-13-2014, 09:36 AM   #35
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You can turn them over….they work in either direction.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:23 AM   #36
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There is absolutely nothing wrong with running a Curtis or other ball with a 1 or 2" extended rise. In terms of leverage on the ball (your husband's concern), the 1" might be less of a worry than the 2" if indeed there was an increased probability of breakage due to the increased length of the shaft and the 1" would halve the 2" drop whereas the 2" would offset or cancel the 2" drop (essentially providing the same configuration as a strait stinger with no drop).

I can see why the extended shaft gives a finer increment of adjustment to a 2" drop stinger but I agree with previous opinions that you need to correct tongue jack problem by replacing with a jack of shorter dimension between bottom of retracted foot (or outer sleeve) and mounting flange. So long as you maintain the trailer level fore and aft or slightly down at the head, you can use any combination of ball and stinger that is available but you should NOT choose this arrangement for the purpose of improving the functionality of your tongue jack.

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Old 03-13-2014, 10:27 AM   #37
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...well alright back to this jack thing... Pro Series Round, Snap-Ring Swivel Jack - Weld On - Topwind - 10" Lift - 2,000 lbs Pro Series Trailer Jack PS1401140303
I wonder if replacing my current swing up jack with a shorter one is really not as complicated as I thought..... could it possibly be done without welding a new plate onto the trailer after all?
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:29 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghaus View Post
I think that will be enough to make a big difference at most sites unless I sink into the ground (which does happen as I'm not usually at real campgrounds) so I'll still carry the scissors jack. Once again, this forum ROCKS!!
I would get a few stick on levels on the trailer to make sure it is in fact level and not tongue up rather than guessing. Keeping the trailer level while towing should take priority over getting the front tongue jack down.

You can buy a simple rubber tongue wheel block such as the one pictured below to prevent the wheel from sinking into the ground - or just put a leveling block down before dropping the wheel.

I have also used the levelling blocks under the tugs wheels in order to raise the rear of the tug up enough to swing the tongue jack out when dropping the trailer on a site where the entrance is very slopped . Have also used blocks under the tugs wheels to raise it to keep both it and the trailer level when I am doing a quick stop over and can't be bothered to do a full disconnect.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:33 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Doghaus View Post
...well alright back to this jack thing... Pro Series Round, Snap-Ring Swivel Jack - Weld On - Topwind - 10" Lift - 2,000 lbs Pro Series Trailer Jack PS1401140303
I wonder if replacing my current swing up jack with a shorter one is really not as complicated as I thought..... could it possibly be done without welding a new plate onto the trailer after all?
Yes it can - just measure the holes on the mounting plate and get a jack with the same measurements. Most of the brands sell jacks of different sizes and heights so you should be able to get one that matches but is a bit shorter than what you have.
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:40 AM   #40
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Hi, thanks, I do use a level. I'm not guessing.
Just to be clear, are you saying that I should be able to install a new swingaway jack on the existing welded on mounting plate for my existing swingaway jack as long as I can find one with the same mounting hole pattern?
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:29 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Doghaus View Post
Hi, thanks, I do use a level. I'm not guessing.
Just to be clear, are you saying that I should be able to install a new swingaway jack on the existing welded on mounting plate for my existing swingaway jack as long as I can find one with the same mounting hole pattern?
Yup!
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:34 AM   #42
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BTW I am not sure you really need a 1000lb tongue jack that you linked to on a 13' Scamp. Whats the tongue weight on the trailer? 200lbs?

Someone here may know for sure but I am going to suggest you could go with one with far less of a weight limit which may help you find a smaller one that works for you.

Edit to add: Looks like 1000lbs is about a low as Atwood goes. Here is a chart for the various types of Atwood tongue jacks complete with all their measurements that may be of help to you.... have a hunch the jack that Scamp uses on their trailers may well be an Atwood so the bolt pattern is most likely the same. Give Scamp a call to confirm.
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