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Old 03-13-2014, 10:29 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghaus View Post
Hi, thanks, I do use a level. I'm not guessing.
Just to be clear, are you saying that I should be able to install a new swingaway jack on the existing welded on mounting plate for my existing swingaway jack as long as I can find one with the same mounting hole pattern?
Yup!
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Old 03-13-2014, 10:34 AM   #42
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BTW I am not sure you really need a 1000lb tongue jack that you linked to on a 13' Scamp. Whats the tongue weight on the trailer? 200lbs?

Someone here may know for sure but I am going to suggest you could go with one with far less of a weight limit which may help you find a smaller one that works for you.

Edit to add: Looks like 1000lbs is about a low as Atwood goes. Here is a chart for the various types of Atwood tongue jacks complete with all their measurements that may be of help to you.... have a hunch the jack that Scamp uses on their trailers may well be an Atwood so the bolt pattern is most likely the same. Give Scamp a call to confirm.
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:12 AM   #43
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Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
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Hi, thanks, my jack is not an A Frame though, its a swing away type. I looked into replacing it with an A Frame but it would have hung down more than I wanted. There is really not much clearance under the trailer frame on my 13'er, only about 11".
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Old 03-13-2014, 11:39 AM   #44
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Well you do have an A Frame tongue but sorry my error I gave you a link to the center mount jacks. You will find a number of different swing away jacks that will work at Swivel Jack Trailer - Etrailer.com - some are only 10" which would work but I see there are some rather cool looking Fulton's that appear to be pretty short below the bolt on.
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Old 03-13-2014, 12:49 PM   #45
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
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The swivel jack should be attached to the pivot by a BIG snap ring. That's how it is on our Uhaul which has a Tractor Supply jack mounted on the original pivot which is welded to the tongue. Sounds like your choice of a replacement jack will depend on the measurement from the pivot to the foot being shorter than your current jack. My guess is the welded on pivot will be the same. Remove snap ring CAREFULLY, lot of tension there and they like to fly off or pinch fingers even if you have the right tool, stick new jack onto pivot, reinstall snap ring, done!
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:05 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
The swivel jack should be attached to the pivot by a BIG snap ring.
Your right! - my Scamp is held by a large snap ring in the centre of the mounting plate welded to the tongue as well - the spring loaded locking mechanism going though another hole on the other corner of the mounting plate.
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:18 PM   #47
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Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
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Super! Thank you. I think I get it but I'm sure hubby will really know what a snap ring is. I really can't wait to get the Scamp out and start in on this.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:22 PM   #48
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Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
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Big 3" snap ring like that on the swivel jacks can be removed with a couple of common screwdrivers or a couple of pointed awls BUT snap ring pliers make it a breeze and you don't destroy the ring in the process. Buy the pliers or buy the time of someone who has a pair!

jack
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Old 03-13-2014, 04:05 PM   #49
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Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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I was going to suggest fabricating a bracket to raise the pivot stub if it wasn't welded on, but most likely it is welded so a replacement jack would be the easiest solution.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:28 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
I was going to suggest fabricating a bracket to raise the pivot stub if it wasn't welded on, but most likely it is welded so a replacement jack would be the easiest solution.
On my Scamp they have welded the mounting plate to the tongue.
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:44 PM   #51
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Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
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Pro Series Round, Snap-Ring Swivel Jack - Weld On - Topwind - 10" Lift - 2,000 lbs Pro Series Trailer Jack PS1401140303
It doesn't fully show it, but the type of swivel jack that I am looking at comes with a separate mounting plate that is welded to the trailer frame. Then the Jack is attached to that plate with a "snap ring". This is the same type of jack I have on my trailer but in a taller version (15"). What I need to determine is if I can find a shorter jack (10") that will fit onto the plate for my existing jack that is already welded onto my frame. That would be an easy switch.
There is another type of jack that is bolted on, and yet another type that is called Pipe Mount. Learning a lot today. In our house I do the research and then hubby does the implementation. He is a genius at fixing and figuring out stuff hands on. I'm starting to bring up the subject of adding trailer brakes...
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Old 03-13-2014, 07:52 PM   #52
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Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
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Dimensions of Mounting Plate on Pro Series Weld-On Snap Ring Swivel Jack # PS1401140303 | etrailer.com
guess this is what I'll be comparing measurements to!
Thanks everyone for all the advice.
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:25 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doghaus View Post
It doesn't fully show it, but the type of swivel jack that I am looking at comes with a separate mounting plate that is welded to the trailer frame. Then the Jack is attached to that plate with a "snap ring". This is the same type of jack I have on my trailer but in a taller version (15"). What I need to determine is if I can find a shorter jack (10") that will fit onto the plate for my existing jack that is already welded onto my frame. .
Is this Fulton Weld On Sidewind with 10" Lift not mounted the same as the one on your Scamp now?
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:30 PM   #54
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Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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When I installed my tongue box the crank handle would hit the box. I ground off the welds that held the jack tube to the bracket that goes on the pivot, turned the tube about 45 degrees, and welded it back. I could have, and probably should have, raised it up a little. There's an option for you.
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Old 03-14-2014, 05:28 AM   #55
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Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
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Hi Carol,Yes, that is mounted the same way.
Mary Bob, I'm trying to get away with NOT welding, that is one skill we don't have. Actually I do know how to weld, which is a story in itself, but I'm not good enough at it to actually do it on something that matters.
I have a topwind jack now with no wheel on it, and I'll probably stick with that unless I determine that a sidewind will work. I've learned how to avoid hitting the propane tank on the back part of the swing with the topwind, but I do still hit it from time to time. Somehow I think there is something else that will interfere with the sidewind. Can't wait to get the Scamp out of storage now!
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Old 03-14-2014, 09:10 AM   #56
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Hi Carol,Yes, that is mounted the same way.
Mary Bob, I'm trying to get away with NOT welding, that is one skill we don't have.
You probable already realize this but while looking through your chooses of what to replace your current one with that you do want to look at ones that say weld on, even though you do not wish to or need to actually weld it. In most cases the weld on is referring to the mounting plate you already have welded onto the tongue of your trailer.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:12 PM   #57
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Name: Nate
Trailer: Scamp 13
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I think this was previously mentioned, but if not: a jack stand works for me. If the swing jack is too tall to swing down, I use the jack stand to un-hitch the trailer. I prefer the stability of the stand to the wheel on my swing jack as well. Adjustments can be made with the wheels chocked either by hand (lifting the tounge while somebody lowers the jack stand) or by placing a block of wood under the tongue, lowering the stand, and carefully tapping out the block with a mallet.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:41 PM   #58
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Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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sounds like this involves lifting, but for me with 3 bad discs in my back that is not possible. I prefer letting the mechanical devices do the work!
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:25 PM   #59
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Name: Roamin’
Trailer: 2018 13’ Scamp Standard, formerly had a 2005 13’ Scamp standard
New Hampshire
Posts: 297
new tongue jack installed!! Thanks everyone!

Hi, just a followup: I got a slightly shorter tongue jack from etrailer and we installed it tonight. It will give me almost an inch more clearance for swinging down the jack. I also bought the 1" highrise hitch ball which we will put on probably tomorrow. This will give me plenty of clearance, I shouldn't have to use the scissors jack anymore, and the camper should now ride level if my calculations are correct. The jack install was very simple, we just removed the snap ring from the old and new jacks, cleaned the rust off of the mounting plate, swapped the jacks, and reinstalled the snap ring. The only problem we had was that the snap ring tool was not quite large enough for the extra large snap ring on the jack, but my hubby figured it out somehow.
Thanks everyone!
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Old 05-06-2014, 07:07 PM   #60
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They are quite a snap ring aren't they !!!
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