Lug Bolt Specs...1997 Scamp 13ft Deluxe - Fiberglass RV

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Old 06-20-2006, 04:55 AM   #1
Trailer: 1997 13 ft Scamp Deluxe and 2006 Airstream 75th Anniversary International Bambi Prototype
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Hello, I'm changing the rims/tires on my Scamp to lightweight aluminum rims, and I need to purchase new chrome lug bolts, but...

I don't know the specs of the bolts on my trailer. All Scamp could tell me was "1.25 inch American Standard Fine" but the rim shop says they need more info. I have bolts which screw directly into the hub. The rim shop says they need to know thread pitch, bolt diameter, metric/standard, etc...I figured this was pretty standard, but I guess I was wrong.

I could go down to the hardware store and try to match my bolt to a nut, but I'm sure someone here on this board MUST know all the pertinent/relevant info for a late 90's Scamp 13ft lug bolt. I''m a bit confused by all the dimensions and identifying characteristics.

So...does anyone know what size specifically these bolts are???

Thanks again!

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Old 06-20-2006, 02:31 PM   #2
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Name: Roger
Trailer: Y2K6 Born Free 32RQ on the Kodiak chassis, 1995 Coachmen 19' B-van and 1996 Precision 21' Sailboat
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Jeff... take one of the bolts ot Ace Hardware (or any good hardware store). They have guages that you can thread them into which will tell you what the diameter and thread pitch are.

I suspect that the issue with getting new ones are getting the proper bolt shoulder to mate with the chamfered holes in the new wheels.

I dunno why, but I guess I'd assumed that all of the Scamps had studs in the wheel that used standard lug nuts rather than threaded holes in the wheels with lug bolts.


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Old 06-20-2006, 11:15 PM   #3
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My Dexter axle (5 on 4.5) uses lug nuts, with the studs remaining on the hubs -- My axle is a 2003, IIRC. Indeed, the angle of the nut or bolt head where it contacts the wheel is important because the wheels and hubs are LUG_CENTRIC, not HUB_CENTRIC.

As soon as one introduces a non-standard part, which I presume the alum wheels are, one has to be careful -- As Roger said, use an original part to get the thread and pitch and use a new wheel to get the contact angle right -- This is esp important with alum because the wrong contact angle may quickly wear and weaken the alum wheel -- This is not a problem in automotive wheels because they are usually HUB_CENTRIC.

Also, the torque of the nuts/bolts will have to be checked more often because for some reason, alum wheels tend to loosen much more easily than steel wheels, and if they get loose enuf to wallow out the holes, the wheel is scrap...
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