Maintenance & Restoration

P. Raz · 03-28-2012, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gina D.

if the PO used wire nuts, he could have gotten them too tight and created a 0 ohm barrier too!

"zero ohm barrier". That's a new one on me. Zero ohms is a short! I think maybe someone is pulling your chain. Raz

**Gina D.** · 03-28-2012, 08:59 AM

it was a joke.

The Zero Ohm Barrier can also happen when the knobs on your stereo are too tight. Blocks the current flow like a tourniquet :-P

P. Raz · 03-28-2012, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gina D.

it was a joke.

The Zero Ohm Barrier can also happen when the knobs on your stereo are too tight. Blocks the current flow like a tourniquet :-P

You got me.

GerryL · 03-28-2012, 10:49 AM

Many years ago I worked with a character; when we got a greenhorn in and they mentioned that they thought some of the production equipment was running too fast he'd tell them "Well then, go ahead on out there and put a pair of vice grips on the power cord...just crank it down a little bit, not too much.". Maybe your vice grips are too tight!

David B. · 03-28-2012, 02:21 PM

I once had a problem with my brakes working intermittently. It turned out that the wire that goes from the street side brake to the curb side brake ran within the axle tube, and the wire insulation had worn through, thus grounding itself. I discovered it as I was replacing ALL the wiring to eradicate the problem (I just hooked a new wire to the old one and pulled the old wire out while pulling in a new one).

Andrew Gibbens · 03-28-2012, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gina D.

The Zero Ohm Barrier can also happen when the knobs on your stereo are too tight.

But you have to have them on tight. Stops silly fools from coming along and being able to turn them down below 11.

Greybeard · 03-28-2012, 09:39 PM

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, I am on a 4-6 day trip.
When I got my trailer one brake worked and not the other. When I had someone step on the TV brake, with the trailer connected electrically, I could hear a slight buzz from the brake that was working, so I knew only was not good.
You mentioned earlier you did something similar and I think if neither brake is working, and you are very sure of this, then the problem is in a common place whrere there is only one wire, before it splits to each wheel. The problem will be wetween the plug and where the feed splits to each wheel or there is no ground, something common to both wheels.
On the other hand, if only one is not working then the problem is between where the single lead becomes two and the wheel not working.
It would be much easier to show you :-)
How far are you from Victoria BC?
Richard

BCDave · 03-28-2012, 10:16 PM

I think that she is still in California

Greybeard · 03-28-2012, 10:52 PM

Yah, I kinda figured :-)
Richard

**Gina D.** · 03-28-2012, 11:07 PM

and trying to get out!

LOL.. I crawled underneath to check the lines at the hub.. he DID use wire nuts!

I tried to loosen them to let the current flow easier, but I think he glued them on... :-P

I have no continuity at the plug. Thats as far as I got, I was called away for work.

Then.. it was dark.

Greybeard · 03-29-2012, 09:38 AM

Looks like you are getting closer to where the problem may be :-)
I hope you are kidding about allowing the electricity to flow.
The wire nuts are likely used to connect wires together, if they are what I think they are.
They are used to cover and protect bare wires that have been twisted together to make them connect. The wire nut is then turned on by hand and then tightened to ensure a seal. If they are under the trailer, subject to dirt, water and grit, they are likely corroded and the connection between the wires inside is gone.They are usually very tight.
It is probably not the easiest place to do anything but if it were me, I'd cut the wire coming from the connector plug and verify continuity between those points (between where the wire is cut and the connector). If there is continuity there, then I'd bet the prblem is in the distribution from there to the two wheels.
Before going any further, let me say I am assuming the wire nuts allow the single wire from the connector to be split to feed each wheels, and that is what may need to be replaced. It is just a "Y", I hope. That is also a common point to both wheels and since neither has power, it seems like a good bet for me :-)
Replacing the whole splice with soldered, covered connections would be my suggestion. Easier to say than likely to be able to do, unfortunately.
Hope this helps.
Richard

**Gina D.** · 03-31-2012, 07:25 PM

and the bad news is...

I have a rock solid ground, I ran 12v directly back to the hub with new wire.. BUT.. no hum.

I cut the wires at the hub and measured ... wide open. Ran power directly to the other wheel..nothin'

Hubs gotta come off. Unfortunately, the trailer is buried behind 6 diesel pushers and a couple giant 5th wheels. Gotta get a mobile guy in here.

I will just have new assemblies put on. I was stunned to see how inexpensive (Relatively) they are. About 50 bucks each. With something this old, might as well. Gotta find out IF I can get assemblies for it. I have no clue what axle is on here. Its old (But still good) It's Canadian, and its covered in surface rust.

Greybeard, yes, I am joking about the electrical. In my former life, I worked in electronic engineering.

Ed Harris · 03-31-2012, 07:41 PM

I was sure it was you Fetzer Valve,Fetzer Valve.

Is that Redundant?

**Gina D.** · 03-31-2012, 09:20 PM

Ed, No. No.

I did check the Fetzer Valve as I know that sometimes can create a Zero Ohm Barrier if it sticks. However, it was wide open and clear of any coagulated juice from the current bush.

The wires on the drums are red, however, and it is possible that the dye on the jacket has fouled the outer strands, creating a resistance field.

The other possibility about me not hearing any hum is that the wheels are too close together. Coil, magnet, electrical field.. put two of those side by side and opposing each other makes... a humbucker

(Guitar players can shoot me now)