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Old 03-28-2012, 09:39 PM   #21
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Sorry I didn't get back sooner, I am on a 4-6 day trip.
When I got my trailer one brake worked and not the other. When I had someone step on the TV brake, with the trailer connected electrically, I could hear a slight buzz from the brake that was working, so I knew only was not good.
You mentioned earlier you did something similar and I think if neither brake is working, and you are very sure of this, then the problem is in a common place whrere there is only one wire, before it splits to each wheel. The problem will be wetween the plug and where the feed splits to each wheel or there is no ground, something common to both wheels.
On the other hand, if only one is not working then the problem is between where the single lead becomes two and the wheel not working.
It would be much easier to show you :-)
How far are you from Victoria BC?
Richard
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:16 PM   #22
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I think that she is still in California
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:52 PM   #23
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Yah, I kinda figured :-)
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:07 PM   #24
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and trying to get out!

LOL.. I crawled underneath to check the lines at the hub.. he DID use wire nuts!

I tried to loosen them to let the current flow easier, but I think he glued them on... :-P

I have no continuity at the plug. Thats as far as I got, I was called away for work.

Then.. it was dark.
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:38 AM   #25
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Looks like you are getting closer to where the problem may be :-)
I hope you are kidding about allowing the electricity to flow.
The wire nuts are likely used to connect wires together, if they are what I think they are.
They are used to cover and protect bare wires that have been twisted together to make them connect. The wire nut is then turned on by hand and then tightened to ensure a seal. If they are under the trailer, subject to dirt, water and grit, they are likely corroded and the connection between the wires inside is gone.They are usually very tight.
It is probably not the easiest place to do anything but if it were me, I'd cut the wire coming from the connector plug and verify continuity between those points (between where the wire is cut and the connector). If there is continuity there, then I'd bet the prblem is in the distribution from there to the two wheels.
Before going any further, let me say I am assuming the wire nuts allow the single wire from the connector to be split to feed each wheels, and that is what may need to be replaced. It is just a "Y", I hope. That is also a common point to both wheels and since neither has power, it seems like a good bet for me :-)
Replacing the whole splice with soldered, covered connections would be my suggestion. Easier to say than likely to be able to do, unfortunately.
Hope this helps.
Richard
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:25 PM   #26
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and the bad news is...

I have a rock solid ground, I ran 12v directly back to the hub with new wire.. BUT.. no hum.

I cut the wires at the hub and measured ... wide open. Ran power directly to the other wheel..nothin'

Hubs gotta come off. Unfortunately, the trailer is buried behind 6 diesel pushers and a couple giant 5th wheels. Gotta get a mobile guy in here.

I will just have new assemblies put on. I was stunned to see how inexpensive (Relatively) they are. About 50 bucks each. With something this old, might as well. Gotta find out IF I can get assemblies for it. I have no clue what axle is on here. Its old (But still good) It's Canadian, and its covered in surface rust.

Greybeard, yes, I am joking about the electrical. In my former life, I worked in electronic engineering.
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Old 03-31-2012, 07:41 PM   #27
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I was sure it was you Fetzer Valve,Fetzer Valve.

Is that Redundant?
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:20 PM   #28
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Ed, No. No.

I did check the Fetzer Valve as I know that sometimes can create a Zero Ohm Barrier if it sticks. However, it was wide open and clear of any coagulated juice from the current bush.

The wires on the drums are red, however, and it is possible that the dye on the jacket has fouled the outer strands, creating a resistance field.

The other possibility about me not hearing any hum is that the wheels are too close together. Coil, magnet, electrical field.. put two of those side by side and opposing each other makes... a humbucker

(Guitar players can shoot me now)
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Old 03-31-2012, 09:45 PM   #29
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There is, of course, one more potential reason why you couldn't hear a humm - have U had your hearing checked lately?
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:24 PM   #30
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eh? Wadya say, sonny?
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:09 AM   #31
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eh? Wadya say, sonny?
Can you hear me now?


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Old 04-01-2012, 08:07 AM   #32
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............
I will just have new assemblies put on. I was stunned to see how inexpensive (Relatively) they are. About 50 bucks each. With something this old, might as well. Gotta find out IF I can get assemblies for it. I have no clue what axle is on here. Its old (But still good) It's Canadian, and its covered in surface rust.
...........
When I was checking around, Eastern Marine had the cheapest prices on brake assemblies. And it does seem cheaper to replace the whole assembly.

I'm puzzled that both of your brakes would die simultaneously.
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:51 AM   #33
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its a Canadian trailer. They are much more consistent than we are

I haven't a clue at this point. It could have been a single catastrophic event, or given the skill level of the former owner at creative ideas.. as someone here already said.. both the assemblies could be missing. its a 35 year old rig..who can guess?

Won't know until it gets opened up.. and once it is open, its just as easy to replace them and know its all fresh. IF I can get parts. Hopefully, a new axle is not in my future. This axle is in really good condition for something this old. I would not be surprised if it has been replaced once already.

Since I have totally eliminated all components on the trailer and tow as being the cause, it can't be much else other than 2 assemblies with errors in them.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:24 AM   #34
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Ed, No. No.

I did check the Fetzer Valve as I know that sometimes can create a Zero Ohm Barrier if it sticks. However, it was wide open and clear of any coagulated juice from the current bush.

The wires on the drums are red, however, and it is possible that the dye on the jacket has fouled the outer strands, creating a resistance field.

The other possibility about me not hearing any hum is that the wheels are too close together. Coil, magnet, electrical field.. put two of those side by side and opposing each other makes... a humbucker

(Guitar players can shoot me now)
Do You know why they hum?

Because they don't know the words!

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Old 04-01-2012, 11:33 AM   #35
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As Floyd indicates each brake magnet also needs to be grounded to have a complete circuit. Look behind the wheels for the brake wire exit point. Sometimes one of those wires will be grounded to the frame right there, very vulnerable to corrosion. Sometimes each of the wires from one side connect to there corresponding wire on the other side and then to the 7 way plug. If you don't see an obvious fault you can use a continuity tester to check the wires by driving a strait pin into the wire to be tested. Make sure to fill the pin holes when done to avoid corrosion.
A multimeter with a continuity buzzer is a worth while investment ($10-20). Good luck, Raz
Sometimes one of those wires will be grounded to the frame right there, very vulnerable to corrosion.
Grounding is very important!
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:16 PM   #36
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Trailer brakes aren't complicated to deal with, what's the problem? I fixed the brakes on my cargo trailer recently. It was very easy. I dropped it off at a trailer place and picked it up later in the day, all fixed.

On a more serious note, I can see why you would want to try and fix it yourself. Besides the bill, there's always the chance that a repair place might take advantage. I have one trailer repar shop I've been to many times, but the old owner guy isn't around any more (sold, retired, or what, I'm not sure) and the new guys have BS'd me 3 different times (3 strikes, they're out).
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Old 04-02-2012, 03:44 AM   #37
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Unfortunately once it's open you discover you need new drums, bearings, seals, ect. That's usually the way it works. Like Thomas, I too find it odd that both coils would be open. If you find a reason, please share. Raz
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Old 04-02-2012, 08:20 AM   #38
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I can think of a reason (Not a good one tho) why the assemblies would be missing.

Someone may have done just that. Taken i to a shop, had them checked, found the cost not to their liking and told them to just put the wheel back on.

"I gotta macho truck, I don't need no steenkeen brakes".
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Old 04-02-2012, 06:43 PM   #39
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Hmm, your brakes are broke. So give 'em a sawbuck and they won't be broke any more!
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Old 04-03-2012, 10:00 PM   #40
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I am gonna be broke. Had it scheduled tomorrow.. new brakes and the whole nine yards tomorrow.

The Jeep has developed a leaky rear diff. Gotta take care of THAT tomorrow before I tow anywhere..brakes or no.

I am officially 1 day behind schedule! yay.
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