My Brakes are Broke - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-31-2012, 10:45 PM   #29
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Name: Dave
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There is, of course, one more potential reason why you couldn't hear a humm - have U had your hearing checked lately?
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:24 PM   #30
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eh? Wadya say, sonny?
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:09 AM   #31
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eh? Wadya say, sonny?
Can you hear me now?


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Old 04-01-2012, 09:07 AM   #32
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............
I will just have new assemblies put on. I was stunned to see how inexpensive (Relatively) they are. About 50 bucks each. With something this old, might as well. Gotta find out IF I can get assemblies for it. I have no clue what axle is on here. Its old (But still good) It's Canadian, and its covered in surface rust.
...........
When I was checking around, Eastern Marine had the cheapest prices on brake assemblies. And it does seem cheaper to replace the whole assembly.

I'm puzzled that both of your brakes would die simultaneously.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:51 AM   #33
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its a Canadian trailer. They are much more consistent than we are

I haven't a clue at this point. It could have been a single catastrophic event, or given the skill level of the former owner at creative ideas.. as someone here already said.. both the assemblies could be missing. its a 35 year old rig..who can guess?

Won't know until it gets opened up.. and once it is open, its just as easy to replace them and know its all fresh. IF I can get parts. Hopefully, a new axle is not in my future. This axle is in really good condition for something this old. I would not be surprised if it has been replaced once already.

Since I have totally eliminated all components on the trailer and tow as being the cause, it can't be much else other than 2 assemblies with errors in them.
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:24 PM   #34
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Ed, No. No.

I did check the Fetzer Valve as I know that sometimes can create a Zero Ohm Barrier if it sticks. However, it was wide open and clear of any coagulated juice from the current bush.

The wires on the drums are red, however, and it is possible that the dye on the jacket has fouled the outer strands, creating a resistance field.

The other possibility about me not hearing any hum is that the wheels are too close together. Coil, magnet, electrical field.. put two of those side by side and opposing each other makes... a humbucker

(Guitar players can shoot me now)
Do You know why they hum?

Because they don't know the words!

Spanke
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Old 04-01-2012, 12:33 PM   #35
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As Floyd indicates each brake magnet also needs to be grounded to have a complete circuit. Look behind the wheels for the brake wire exit point. Sometimes one of those wires will be grounded to the frame right there, very vulnerable to corrosion. Sometimes each of the wires from one side connect to there corresponding wire on the other side and then to the 7 way plug. If you don't see an obvious fault you can use a continuity tester to check the wires by driving a strait pin into the wire to be tested. Make sure to fill the pin holes when done to avoid corrosion.
A multimeter with a continuity buzzer is a worth while investment ($10-20). Good luck, Raz
Sometimes one of those wires will be grounded to the frame right there, very vulnerable to corrosion.
Grounding is very important!
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Old 04-01-2012, 01:16 PM   #36
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Trailer brakes aren't complicated to deal with, what's the problem? I fixed the brakes on my cargo trailer recently. It was very easy. I dropped it off at a trailer place and picked it up later in the day, all fixed.

On a more serious note, I can see why you would want to try and fix it yourself. Besides the bill, there's always the chance that a repair place might take advantage. I have one trailer repar shop I've been to many times, but the old owner guy isn't around any more (sold, retired, or what, I'm not sure) and the new guys have BS'd me 3 different times (3 strikes, they're out).
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Old 04-02-2012, 04:44 AM   #37
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Unfortunately once it's open you discover you need new drums, bearings, seals, ect. That's usually the way it works. Like Thomas, I too find it odd that both coils would be open. If you find a reason, please share. Raz
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Old 04-02-2012, 09:20 AM   #38
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I can think of a reason (Not a good one tho) why the assemblies would be missing.

Someone may have done just that. Taken i to a shop, had them checked, found the cost not to their liking and told them to just put the wheel back on.

"I gotta macho truck, I don't need no steenkeen brakes".
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:43 PM   #39
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Hmm, your brakes are broke. So give 'em a sawbuck and they won't be broke any more!
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:00 PM   #40
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I am gonna be broke. Had it scheduled tomorrow.. new brakes and the whole nine yards tomorrow.

The Jeep has developed a leaky rear diff. Gotta take care of THAT tomorrow before I tow anywhere..brakes or no.

I am officially 1 day behind schedule! yay.
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Old 04-03-2012, 11:47 PM   #41
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So the you Break the Brakes and yur Broke. (Wonder how many more derivations of words that sound like "brake" we can use in one sentence!)

Yes diff needs work as highest priority - except if it ain't leaking all that much - and you are there - I'm not - so I can't advise. Many diffs "sweat" some oil thru the gaskets, but if it is a "drippy" leak - it will soon be an "iffy diffy"
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:18 AM   #42
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its bad. I have no "symptoms" of a bad rear end..uh.. don't go there, I I have never noticed any drips or smelly things under the car until, well, today. The whole front end of the yolk is a gooey mess.

There is still fluid in there, but not much. Bought some more to put in there to get to the shop, just in case. Hopefully its just a seal..we shall see.

I suppose it was a blessing to find it now, instead of half way up Grants pass. That could have been..expensive and a total disaster.
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