NEED ADVICE: Previous owner welded crack in frame

[redbarron55]

If you can't do the work yourself factor in a new frame and floor both custom made and a complete rebuild, replacing way more than you think.
I would put the cost at north of $4000.

[redbarron55]

If you can't do the work yourself factor in a new frame and floor both custom made and a complete rebuild, replacing way more than you think.
I would put the cost at north of $4000.

[LyleB]

Originally Posted by Raz

There have been a number of folks either build their own frame or have one manufactured. I recall a cost of about $1000 with axle being mentioned

That's even more affordable than I thought. For me, that would definitely be the route I would take. Peace of mind, and a trailer ready to go for another 20 years. Even double that would be worth it for me.

[LyleB]

delete

[Captleemo]

That picture looks like the corrosion is so deep that the metal looks like it is turning into actual layers of rusty scale. I would vote for a new frame at the least and if you go that route have it properly painted starting with primer and then quality paint.

[real550A]

These tube frames generally rust from the inside out. Condensation sits inside the tubes constantly. What you see here is just the worst spot. Judging by the degradation at that location, I would guarantee the rest of that frame is shot.
A good welding shop could make/modify a frame for you. The labor to hire someone to switch the body over would be prohibitive. If you can do it yourself, and can buy that unit for $1500, or less, you've got a nice start.

[itlives]

Not much to add except that I would be afraid to haul that home. In the middle picture, I see lots of rust through.
You will have to have another frame, that one is toast..,
If the price is right and you're not afraid of the cost of another, go for it.

BUT- there are lots of deals out there that would be a lot less trouble...just saying.
Spring is coming. Keep your eye on FiberglassRV 4 sale

[redbarron55]

If you buy the trailer for $1500 and have to pay some one to build you a frame, add axle, probably the floor you will be ready to roll in a year or so and and you will have over $5000 in it.
If you don't have the skills and the time to do it yourself and you don't like waiting then buy a good one instead. Run, don't walk away.
If you are looking for a project then dig right in, but don't pay too much.

[Mike_L]

I've seem folks spend more money on a project than it would have cost them to buy a new one and they still have an old, used unit.

[itlives]

Originally Posted by Mike_L

I've seem folks spend more money on a project than it would have cost them to buy a new one and they still have an old, used unit.

Maybe, but when you have it with upgrades and personalized and you did it, there's a lot of satisfaction.
I painted show cars for a living for almost a decade. Those cars were better than new. Some had ever nut and bolt replaced or replated.
Same with these little campers.
Plus, it keeps me at home and out of trouble

[real550A]

Originally Posted by Mike_L

I've seem folks spend more money on a project than it would have cost them to buy a new one and they still have an old, used unit.

I agree, to an extent. It's a trap that many fall into, but if you don't overshoot your abilities, and keep costs down, you can have a very nice egg to enjoy, and come out just fine on the other end.

[redbarron55]

The problem with repairing rusted frames is that it is very difficult to weld to them without blowing out the metal. These early frames were pretty thin to start with anyway.
I didn't replace my entire frame, but I did replace the front 1/4 - 1/3.
I added a lot of extra bracing and used thicker wall rectangular tubing and added a full two tubing sections across the front.
These frames are wont to crack in the left (driver's) side curve and where you can't easily see it in front of the door opening.
This is caused by the flexing of the frame under the door opening.
I think that all of these frames are prone to cracking in this area for the same reason.

If you look carefully you can see the effect of corrosion and cracking, Repaired?



Here is how I welded a second tube under the new frame back to the doubled stock frame.


This is what I did on the door side. The bracing and the tub was cracked through here.
This is the weak area which causes the cracking on the other side (In my opinion)


This pictures shows the extended frame to allow for adding the front middle bath.
You can see the reinforcement added at the bottom of the frame to the new carry through beams.

Of course this added a good bit of weight to the trailer and the added bracing tubes from the frame to the sides to carry the new 3/4 plywood that was bonded to the shell did too.
However now the shell is bonded to structural steel all the way around. Before the loads were basically in the four areas where the frame passed under the shell and the sides just basically floated and added no strength or stiffness.
Originally the OSB was just screwed to the top of the frame and was cantilevered over to the shell and the shell actually supported the sides of the floor.
Heavier, but maybe better?
Here is a picture of the new steel wheel wells and the added 1 1/2" square tube bracing.


Here is a good part of the reason for the extended frame. The bathroom pan sits in the new extended frame. You can see the added bracing for the area in front of the door.


All of the above is not necessarily to show how it can be done, but rather to show how one change leads to three more.
The modifications and repairs lead inevitably to more.
The more you look the more you find that needs to be fixed.
If you are not looking for a project then find a good trailer.
If it smells musty then carefully check the floor for rot and the frame for rust.
One thing leads to another............

[Raspy]

JD,

That is an excellent post and excellent work.

I really like the new frame and the steel wheel wells. It seems like the area near the front of the body, where the frame begins to narrow, is the maximum stress point on most trailers. Very important to check that area.

Are you going to do anything with the axle?

Thanks

[redbarron55]

Originally Posted by Raspy

JD,

That is an excellent post and excellent work.

I really like the new frame and the steel wheel wells. It seems like the area near the front of the body, where the frame begins to narrow, is the maximum stress point on most trailers. Very important to check that area.

Are you going to do anything with the axle?

Thanks

I replaced the original dead axle with a Flexi-Ride with 10" brakes.
Since the only hubs available were 5 lug I bought 205 14 wheels and tires.
To get clearance for the new tires I installed the steel wheel wells.
The Flexi-ride lets me adjust the ride height to get the trailer level.
I may lower the trailer little when I get chance.
The larger wheels and tires also required cutting out the openings for installing and removing them as well.