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03-02-2017, 12:51 PM
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#1
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Member
Name: T
Trailer: U-haul
Massachusetts
Posts: 37
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NEED ADVICE: Previous owner welded crack in frame
I've been looking at a Boler in NY state, current owner has been sending me photos. Last week he sent me one of a crack he found in the frame. He had a friend come and weld some plate metal to it. Anyone have experience doing this? Looking for opinions if I should just stay away or if I should go take a look at it.
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03-02-2017, 01:30 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,156
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I await the replies.. this is an interesting question and should be educational for all of us.
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03-02-2017, 02:01 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Looks like allot of rust also. I would get a professional opinion.
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03-02-2017, 03:42 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 13 ft Boler
Posts: 1,177
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The repair is probably the strongest part of the frame now.
The good part is the boler looks to have the fiberglas floor.
The crack in the frame and the amount of rust apparent is of concern.
Without crawling around under the boler with a hammer to hit suspected weak spots its anybodies guess as to the condition of the rest of it.
Fred
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03-02-2017, 07:39 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,892
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From what we can see, that frame looks severely rusted and that cracked section is probably just the first area to actually break. That one spot might be OK now, but spraying some black paint on the parts you can easily see is not going to do a thing to stop the problem.
It looks like you should probably plan to take the trailer off the frame, inspect it and weld it up as needed. Or just pass on it if the pitting is everywhere.
__________________
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
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03-02-2017, 09:36 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Amerigo FG-16
North Carolina
Posts: 313
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I wouldn't call that a crack, I say it was rusted out. As already mentioned that's just the first place it's decided to show up.
You'll probably end up replacing the frame so if you do buy it figure the cost of having a frame built for it & deduct that amount from the value of a similar condition boler with a solid frame.
Personally I'd pass unless it was dirt cheap.
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03-02-2017, 09:38 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Ronald
Trailer: Trillium 1979 13ft.
Ontario
Posts: 300
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Previous welding
Yikes! For sure I would remove and inspect frame. Who knows what else lurks below. Your own piece of mind, as you will always have that doubt in the background as you drive along the highway...
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03-02-2017, 10:45 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2005 16 ft Scamp Side Dinette and 2005 Fleetwood (Coleman) Taos pop-up / 2004 Dodge Dakota QuadCab and 2008 Subaru Outback
Posts: 1,227
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Looks like it's in the same area as shown on this posted by Bex Cat-herder, although the Boler looks more like rust that could affect a larger area than visible.
__________________
Dave (and Marilyn who is now watching from above)
Sharpsburg, GA
04 Dodge Dakota V-8, 17 Dodge Durango V-6, 19 Ford Ranger 2.3 Ecoboost
radar1-scamping.blogspot.com
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03-03-2017, 01:17 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Daniel A.
Trailer: Bigfoot 17.0 1991 dlx
British Columbia
Posts: 741
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If the price is right, I'd ask him to take it to a shop for a frame inspection and see what they say.
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03-03-2017, 08:05 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raspy
From what we can see, that frame looks severely rusted and that cracked section is probably just the first area to actually break. That one spot might be OK now, but spraying some black paint on the parts you can easily see is not going to do a thing to stop the problem.
It looks like you should probably plan to take the trailer off the frame, inspect it and weld it up as needed. Or just pass on it if the pitting is everywhere.
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I can't say it any better. I wouldn't even feel comfortable driving it home.
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03-03-2017, 08:26 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Lyle
Trailer: Scamp 16, previously Scamp 13
None
Posts: 739
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Just out of curiosity, does anyone have any experience in having a new frame built? Seems that there are lots of lightweight trailers out there that are not prohibitively expensive, so I assume one could find a custom shop that could fabricate or modify a new frame for a reasonable price.
I think I would want a new frame if faced with this situation, but I don't like having that big of doubt when towing.
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03-03-2017, 08:28 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Lyle
Trailer: Scamp 16, previously Scamp 13
None
Posts: 739
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delete
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03-03-2017, 09:14 AM
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#13
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Member
Name: T
Trailer: U-haul
Massachusetts
Posts: 37
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Thanks for all of your opinions everyone, they are much appreciated as I have only been looking for the last few weeks and am a newbie when it comes to fiberglass campers. There is a small quarter sized fiberglass chip on one of the outside top corners as well. I'm not afraid of getting the work done I just need to know what I'm getting into.
I will consider getting the frame inspected before purchasing or if the price is right I can factor in the cost of a new frame for peace of mind.
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03-03-2017, 10:11 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LyleB
Just out of curiosity, does anyone have any experience in having a new frame built? Seems that there are lots of lightweight trailers out there that are not prohibitively expensive, so I assume one could find a custom shop that could fabricate or modify a new frame for a reasonable price.
I think I would want a new frame if faced with this situation, but I don't like having that big of doubt when towing.
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There have been a number of folks either build their own frame or have one manufactured. I recall a cost of about $1000 with axle being mentioned
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03-03-2017, 10:44 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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I agree with these other posters. You do not want to go down any roads without a very careful inspection of that frame. Easiest to do it with the body off, but not impossible to do it with the body on.
Offer the folks 100 bucks to take it off their hands...
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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03-03-2017, 10:45 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Frank
Trailer: 2012 ParkLiner #006
New York
Posts: 2,273
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I agree with these other posters. You do not want to go down any roads without a very careful inspection of that frame. Easiest to do it with the body off, but not impossible to do it with the body on.
Offer the folks 100 bucks to take it off their hands...
Frank
__________________
2012 ParkLiner #006
2013 4wd 4 door F150 3.5L Ecoboost with 9200# tow package
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03-03-2017, 11:10 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Me, I would lowball the price a d have a reputable welding shop make me a new frame with a receiver hitch o. The back, a new bolted on axle and new tires and the frame sprayed with LineX.
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03-03-2017, 11:39 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Name: Michael
Trailer: Trail Cruiser
Alberta
Posts: 825
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Two concerns here. How well was the welding done and Why was the welding done? Welding is acceptable if done properly. Cracks appear at weak spots which often result from metal fatigue and rusting. Rusting often occurs in more that one location. Is the unit worth a major frame replacement?
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03-03-2017, 12:26 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 1,279
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Welding technique
That looks like the bend where the frame rails are angled in at the front toward the hitch.
The patch he put on, seems to have been welded across the ends, crossways to the length of the rail. that is a NO NO. Welding across the length of a beam will cause a stress riser, and in time, a new crack.
For a good welding job, all rust and paint must be ground off, to get down to bare metal. The welds should run lengthwise and stop with no undercuts.
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03-03-2017, 12:28 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: To Infinity & Beyond!
Trailer: 1985 Uhaul VT-16 Vacationer, 1957 Avion R20 & 1977 Argosy 6.0 Minuet
Tennessee
Posts: 655
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Pretty simple.
Go get a "pick" hammer. Take it with you when you look at the trailer and "peck" on the frame in different locations with the "pick" end of the hammer. Listen to the sound and see if it changes as you hit the in different areas and see if you break through the frame anywhere with the "Pick" hammer.
The repair you pictured above "appears" to be a solid repair. That one frame picture certainly shows some "Pitting" on the exterior of the frame which would be expected on a trailer frame of this age. That does not necessarily mean the frame is bad. These frames generally rust from the inside out as the inside of the steel tubing is not coated, primed or painted and therefore over time rusts. Using your trusty "Pick" hammer you will be able to give the frame a good inspection and determine the condition of frame.
Notice where this frame rusted? It rusted in the 45 degree curved bend. This frame is steel tube machine bent. That bend is a great place for dirt and water accumulation and is where you generally WILL see these frames rust or develop a crack in the metal.
Given the fact that this trailer has had frame repair would NOT make me run away from this trailer UNTIL I had fully inspected the frame and only then would I make an informed decision as to whether or not to purchase this trailer due to frame rust issues. IF this one already repaired section is the only bad spot on this trailer frame you could sand the exterior of the frame, paint it with POR 15 or similar product and then with a used yard sale weed sprayer you purchased find the open ends of the frame rails, spray POR 15 or other products INSIDE the frame rails to stop any other further deterioration/rust from occurring inside the frame rails.
Yes this takes a little work and investigation however you just might be handsomely rewarded by buying this trailer at a bargain as the seller already knows they have a "Rusty" frame!
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