Need help with 7 blade wiring kit? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-13-2015, 09:44 PM   #1
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Name: Karen & Don
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Need help with 7 blade wiring kit?

I had to replace my wiring kit as my old one had a corroded pin. It adapts from a 7 blade to a 4 pin. All of the lights work except for the back-up lights on the trailer. The wire comes out of the back of the unit but where do I connect it on the tow vehicle? This is the unit on the tow vehicle, not the trailer. The unit I bought was a Hopkins model #47185 vehicle wiring kit. Ant help would be appreciated. Our tow vehicle is a 2008 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder.
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Old 06-13-2015, 09:54 PM   #2
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The middle terminal of the 7-Pin connector is used for the back up lights. Most folks don't even hook them up.
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Old 06-13-2015, 09:58 PM   #3
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On the Ranger, you can simply scotchlock a wire to the backup light wire at the back of the truck and it will work just fine.

Some newer Tow Vehicles will not tolerate this approach and you might need to use a relay or a manual switch directly off the battery.
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Old 06-13-2015, 10:01 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
On the Ranger, you can simply scotchlock a wire to the backup light wire at the back of the truck and it will work just fine.

Some newer Tow Vehicles will not tolerate this approach and you might need to use a relay or a manual switch directly off the battery.
Those Scotch Locks are the worst things they ever invented for wiring. They will allow corrosion into the wire under the insulation penetration, especially where they would be exposed to the elements, such as beneath a vehicle. Do it right and you won't have to do it over.
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:29 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
Those Scotch Locks are the worst things they ever invented for wiring. They will allow corrosion into the wire under the insulation penetration, especially where they would be exposed to the elements, such as beneath a vehicle. Do it right and you won't have to do it over.
So you say...
Check the wiring on your Casita.

They have been used successfully for many decades.
Use them right and you won't have to do it over!
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:48 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
So you say...
Check the wiring on your Casita.

They have been used successfully for many decades.
Use them right and you won't have to do it over!
I have floyd,
Guess what? I don't have any of them any more. I got rid of them all. Sorry to disillusion you, but feel free to use them if you like them. No sweat to me.
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Old 06-14-2015, 12:04 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
I have floyd,
Guess what? I don't have any of them any more. I got rid of them all. Sorry to disillusion you, but feel free to use them if you like them. No sweat to me.
No need to apologize, nothing you have said has disillusioned me in the least. I have used them where appropriate for many years and will continue to do so.
No connector is perfect, recently many OEMs have dropped solder and shrink for repairs in favor of scotchlocks and crimp connectors.
Most Fiberglass trailer makers have used them extensively in manufacturing for decades.
You of course do not need anyone's permission to eschew the use of any product now extant.
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Old 06-14-2015, 12:15 AM   #8
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I never said that they weren't heavily used in many applications, only that I didn't care for them, and that I consider them an inferior wiring connector. Perhaps, most overlooked, is that "industry" is switching to them in lieu of soldering/heat shrinking connections, most probably attributable to a substantial savings of both time and money in assembly and mass production. I personally still don't feel that they are good connectors, but I will agree to disagree with you on the matter and leave it at that. YMMV
Happy Camping
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Old 06-14-2015, 03:00 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Kardon View Post
I had to replace my wiring kit as my old one had a corroded pin. It adapts from a 7 blade to a 4 pin. All of the lights work except for the back-up lights on the trailer. The wire comes out of the back of the unit but where do I connect it on the tow vehicle? This is the unit on the tow vehicle, not the trailer. The unit I bought was a Hopkins model #47185 vehicle wiring kit. Ant help would be appreciated. Our tow vehicle is a 2008 Ford Ranger 4 cylinder.
Don, just have to ask, did the back up lights work at any time with the old wiring or is this something new after the replacement and do you really use them? Rangers never had a "plug and play" wiring set up until the last year of US sales in 2011. I've got a 2002 and had to start under the hood to add my controller and trailer power. As was stated, you can use a Scotch Lock to tie into the back up lights on the truck to light up the trailer lights as it is an easy connection. Is it good or bad to do? Well, I've had over a hundred vehicles over the years and can't say I've ever had a problem because of a Scotch Lock but I don't live in an area with snow, salt or much rain, think desert . But when I've had to pick power off a wire I strip about an inch of plastic off the wire, fold it over and use a butt slice connecter, wrapping it in black tape for weather if needed, to transfer the power. Soldering connections, yup, done that too but it depended on the situation. A bad solder joint can loose continuity just as easily as a butt slice or Scotch Lock connection. Bottom line, we're not sending our eggs to the Moon.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:03 AM   #10
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3M makes a scotchlok approved for splicing wires when used for direct burial (IE underground splices). I have used them on many occasions for splicing wires used for street lighting .Hard to believe they work just fine buried in the dirt but fail inside a dry trailer. Years ago we used standard 3M
Scotchloks (wirenuts) for underground splices by simply filling the scotchlok after making the splice with 3M sealant . 3M products work as advertised,
if you install them according to their instructions
Floyd evidently knows how to read and follow instructions .
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:24 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
No need to apologize, nothing you have said has disillusioned me in the least. I have used them where appropriate for many years and will continue to do so.
No connector is perfect, recently many OEMs have dropped solder and shrink for repairs in favor of scotchlocks and crimp connectors.
Most Fiberglass trailer makers have used them extensively in manufacturing for decades.
You of course do not need anyone's permission to eschew the use of any product now extant.
Hey Floyd. Did I ever tell you my experience with said Scotchlock in our Scamp? While trying to track down the cause of low voltage for 12 v at the fridge, I found a connection inside the front closet - where the wires come in from the front battery - that was HOT to touch. Obviously a point of high resistance. The Scotchlock may have not been crimped properly, but it only provides a very small area of contact with the stranded wires. Anyway, I got rid of it, soldered and taped the splice. No more hot wires!
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:57 PM   #12
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Thank you all for your information. I posted this thread last night. This morning when Karen and I were on our morning walk, I ran into someone that I know that does wiring work and he suggested that I not bother wiring the back-up wire as most trailers don't use them. The first wiring harness did not have the back-up wire connected. So I won't bother wiring it. Thank you all again.
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:30 PM   #13
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Getting ready to pick up our new to us 1993 16' Scamp and we need to make sure we have the right connections for wiring harness to our tow vehicle, 2013 Jeep with 4 pin connector. Can anyone advise if we will need a converter or how to make the connection to the Scamp?
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:52 PM   #14
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In a pinch, one of this type adaptor kit is a good solution. Your local Tractor Supply Company store.
Reese Towpower® Dual Port / 4-Flat to 4-Flat and 7-Way Round Blade

Remember, the Scamp probably has the male end, so your Tow Vehicle needs the female end, a 7 blade female. You can plug your 4 flat into this unit and it will run your lights, running lights and brake lights on the Scamp.

Pretty cool, except for one thing. You probably won't or don't have your brake controller installed yet? One of the wires on this kit is intended to run a line up to your brake controller. Another line is intended to run a line up to your battery and thus charge your camper battery while running down the road.

The charging connection is not required and never will be unless you desire it. The brake controller is another matter. That is sensible and you may not have prepared for that.

Etrailer.com has video of hooking up this same adaptor. Great educational videos on that site and I highly recommend them. You don't have time to order this same adaptor from them, but that's fine. The videos will still be of great help to you. They sell a mulitude of brake controllers and have great video instructions on installation. Or, just pay a local shop to install one for you.

Meanwhile, just remember, you will not be able to activate the trailer brakes JUST by plugging in the TSC sourced Reese adaptor.
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