Need help with Boler hitch - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-14-2013, 07:20 AM   #15
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desy View Post
- When the hitch is locked down, there remains some "play" in the piece that comes up against the back of the ball, I'm assuming this is necessary so that the hitch can continue to move around on the ball when driving? Should I be concerned about too much play?
Makes me wonder if you are not using the correct size of ball for your coupler? E.g. 1-7/8" ball with a 2" coupler. The sizes are typically stamped into the metal somewhere on both.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:36 PM   #16
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Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desy View Post
Regarding the two tabs under the top lever, that drop into the two slots to secure the yoke. I was a bit uncertain about them because when I seat the tabs down into the slots, the yoke sits up a bit from it's lower-most position around the front of the ball cap. Don't think it's enough to create a risk of uncoupling during towing, but wasn't sure whether this was the intended position (i.e. the yoke slightly up on the front of the ball cap) or if mine was simply no longer sitting right because of age.
I looked at my coupler this morning for confirmation, and mine is the same. It works fine.
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:07 AM   #17
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Name: Don
Trailer: 1978 Boler 13'
British Columbia
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As it turns out, we ended up not going. When I hooked up the trailer hitch, I did the test suggested, by cranking the coupler back up when it was hooked up to the ball, and I couldn't seem to get it to hold consistently onto the ball without lifting off. I didn't want to risk a major mishap on our first trip, so going to wait until I have the hitch sorted out and feeling confident about it.

It seems possible to me that we may have the wrong size ball. The guy I bought the trailer from said he used a 2", so that's what I got, but maybe he was using the wrong size. It also seems possible that the hitch is just very old, and everything is worn out to the point where it's loosened up.

Whatever the problem, I think I'll feel better with a new coupler on it, so going to get that done. Better safe than sorry. We may have a little campout in the carport this weekend to inaugurate the Boler. Thanks for all who offered input on this.
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:24 AM   #18
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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Originally Posted by desy View Post
.....Better safe than sorry. We may have a little campout in the carport this weekend to inaugurate the Boler. Thanks for all who offered input on this.
Absolutely, absolutely better to be safe than sorry.

Nothing terribly wrong with Camping @ Home. Lots of folks do it!
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:15 AM   #19
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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Missing Parts????

Looking forward I see you made the safe decision.

Looking at the pics I can see that there appears to be a part missing. Look at the pic from the bottom of the hitch. I can see a hole with a pattern from a nut and washer that appears to be missing. I believe that "Was" the tension adjusting nut and also kept the bottom part from sliding back off of the bottom of the ball.

Getting a new hitch welded onto the tongue ent isn't that big of a deal, any decent shop with trailer experirnce can to it in an hour.

Good Luck


Quote:
Originally Posted by desy View Post
We bought our Boler a few months back, and have it at a point where we're going to take a weekend camp in it, about 2 hours from where we live. To this point we've only really towed it home, and before we go I would like to make sure that we can trust that our hitch is secure.

I'm attaching some photos of the hitch. Not sure if this is the standard original hitch for the Boler, but hope it looks familiar to some of you. What I'm trying to figure out is whether the hitch is secure as it is, or whether I should find some way to lock the hitch down to make sure it's secure? If I do need to lock it down somehow to make it secure, hoping someone can offer a solution for that, because I can't figure out a way to jury-rig anything.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:16 AM   #20
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Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
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I agree withBob, the adjustment nut is missing. From what I can see there is no bolt for the adj nut to go on.
I would for sure replace the whole coupler.
I had the same coupler on my last hardtop and it worked great.
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Old 06-15-2013, 04:09 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Looking at the pics I can see that there appears to be a part missing. Look at the pic from the bottom of the hitch. I can see a hole with a pattern from a nut and washer that appears to be missing. I believe that "Was" the tension adjusting nut and also kept the bottom part from sliding back off of the bottom of the ball.
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I agree withBob, the adjustment nut is missing. From what I can see there is no bolt for the adj nut to go on.
Good spotting, Bob. I agree that a bolt and nut are missing, but it is not an adjustment device or related to tension; there is no adjustment in a typical yoke-type coupler.

In the service manuals linked in Bob's A Ton of Atwood Service Information topic, the parts kit for these couplers is shown. The (missing) bolt through a slot which holds the ball clamp in the coupler while allowing it to slide into engagement is shown, but unfortunately is not part of the kit (neither is the ball clamp - the "jaw"- itself).

I would just replace the bolt and the self-locking nut which must be on the bottom of it, but replacing the whole coupler works, too. It's too bad some previous owner took out this bolt from what would otherwise be a perfectly functional coupler, perhaps in a misguided effort to adjust it. People who don't understand what they are doing should really ask, rather than randomly hacking.
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:02 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMike A View Post
I had this coupler on my horse trailers. Not sure about a Boler but I would spray it down with WD40 inside the upper and outer area and the sleeve should move freely around the outer lip. When in the down position there should be a hole that is in the release handle where a pin/lock can go through so that the slidding lip (for the lack of a better word) wont come up. If you connect to your ball and then look underneath with a flashlight the curved lip of the hitch should engage and lock under the curve of the ball stem. It should not be anywhere up on the rounded area of the ball with the ball clip lip. I think I have a picture that I will post in about 5 min that will show it.
This shows how it engages about 4min into the video
How To Tow a Trailer Video | etrailer.com
Ours is factory and is the lever but has a hole for a pin or lock this is law in our area?
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:04 PM   #23
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We us a 2" ball
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:09 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desy View Post
We bought our Boler a few months back, and have it at a point where we're going to take a weekend camp in it, about 2 hours from where we live. To this point we've only really towed it home, and before we go I would like to make sure that we can trust that our hitch is secure.

I'm attaching some photos of the hitch. Not sure if this is the standard original hitch for the Boler, but hope it looks familiar to some of you. What I'm trying to figure out is whether the hitch is secure as it is, or whether I should find some way to lock the hitch down to make sure it's secure? If I do need to lock it down somehow to make it secure, hoping someone can offer a solution for that, because I can't figure out a way to jury-rig anything.
Our looks like yours but has extra parts such as a clip at the back for locking and we use a 2" ball
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:51 PM   #25
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Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borden View Post
Ours is factory and is the lever but has a hole for a pin or lock this is law in our area?
No, I would be astounded if there was a law anywhere requiring any specific locking feature. If anyone knows of such as regulation, please post a link to it. Legally, you could probably tie your trailer to your hitch with rope if it were strong enough.

Some later Atwood yoke-style couplers have a different lever configuration which can be locked, but as mentioned earlier even the original design can be locked with a padlock which prevents the yoke from moving back.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:07 PM   #26
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Name: Don
Trailer: 1978 Boler 13'
British Columbia
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Bought a new coupler, having it welded on this week, attaching a couple of photos of the coupler on the ball, assuming this looks as it should, i.e. the clamp is holding around the ball in the right way?
Attached Thumbnails
hitch1.jpg   hitch2.jpg  

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Old 06-17-2013, 12:11 AM   #27
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Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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looks upside down to me.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:12 AM   #28
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Name: Ron
Trailer: Trillium 13 ft (green grape)
Ontario
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Now that hitch has the nut for adjustment .
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