Need recommendation for new tow vehicle - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-23-2016, 09:11 AM   #15
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Name: Emily
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My husband drives 35 miles one way to work each day, and drives a 2011 Toyota Highlander, which averages right at 25 mpg for his commute. We use it to tow our 13 foot Scamp and it averaged 23 mpg while towing. It's a V6 with the third row, which we rarely use, but comes in handy for carpooling kids and having visitors. Great leg room in the second row and not to shabby with the third row in place. It's AWD, with a tow package factory installed. It's a really comfortable ride and tows our Scamp like it isn't even there.
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:06 AM   #16
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Keep the commuter car. Buy a 15 year old 4runner for 5-7000 as a second car. Tell your old man to make friends with a shadetree mechanic, just in case.


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Old 03-23-2016, 10:15 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
The cost is also... cost. The Honda Ridgeline, as an example, is a great vehicle, but with a budget of $16K, you'll probably be looking for one with high miles or a blemished Carfax. Ditto Toyota. Both have very high resale values. Good for sellers. Bad for buyers.


Mid-sized trucks also have very confining back seats compared to vans and crossovers, with fairly upright, non-reclining seatbacks. Something to consider if you are planning long road trips with kids.
My 2012 no frills Frontier crew cab comes in at $16k with 2wd. A quick look at Craig's list show's a number of Ridgelines with about 100k miles for about $10k.

Also my crewcab has about the same back seat space as my CRV. I'm not looking to argue what's better. What's better for you may not be for me. The op asked for options and clearly stated she wanted something other than a van. So I suggested a pick up. Just because some don't want a pickup doesn't mean she won't.
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:29 AM   #18
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Since you live in the Deep South don't consider any AWD or 4X4 vehicles as they lower gas mileage. Since your budget puts you firmly in the used car market be a smart shopper and first get your hands on the Consumer Reports Buying Guide and look at the long list of vehicles NEVER TO CONSIDER FOR A USED Car/SUV or TRUCK. This will save you a lot of grief and repair bills. (Note: a few on their list have been recommended in this post...don't go there!!!).

Know the real tow weight of your trailer and research the towing capacity of any vehicle you might consider...remember the weight of passengers and gear gets deducted from the total tow rating! A transmission cooler could be added to anything you select (it is a cheap insurance item when towing).

It is hard to keep emotion out of any vehicle selection process...but...remember it is not how sexy it looks it is however how well it performs and how long it will last without repairs.

Best and most dependable brands: #1. Toyota....#2. Subaru....#3. Honda
( see Consumers Reports for a complete listing by model).

Good Luck and Happy Camping !
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:49 PM   #19
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Keep the commuter car. Buy a 15 year old 4runner for 5-7000 as a second car. Tell your old man to make friends with a shadetree mechanic, just in case.


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Having owned several vehicles in the 10 to 15 year old range , I would be leary of using one as a tow vehicle especially for long trips . The only one who was enamored with my last 15 year old vehice was my mechanic ,who made a good living off repairing it.
We recently made a 7500 mile trip which I would not attempted with my 1999 truck. I have driven a truck for the last 40 years and like them as a tow vehicle plus they have that Macho factor
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:54 PM   #20
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The trick is to avoid domestics over about 150k.


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Old 03-23-2016, 02:35 PM   #21
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The trick is to avoid domestics over about 150k.


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I don' t do non domestics and in my opinion any vehicle that is 15 years old and has high mileage is on borrowed time. .Everyone has different comfort levels and that's why we bought a new truck before making our recent trip. Your opinion is as valid as mine only different.
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:43 PM   #22
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Very true! Sorry, it wasn't my intention to argue with you on Courtney's thread.
Diff'rent Strokes!


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Old 03-26-2016, 08:15 PM   #23
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Hubs has talked me into keeping the commuter and getting an older TV. Scouring the interwebs for one...


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Old 03-26-2016, 09:50 PM   #24
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Our 2008 Ford Escape has done well, 2.3L 4CYL 5SPD manual.
The newer ones are even better.
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Old 03-30-2016, 10:19 AM   #25
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Ford Explorer, Ford Escape, Mercury Mariner it's very easy to find these with towing packages factory installed, low millage (under 100,000) Sub $15,000. I got my Fully loaded 06 Mercury Mariner Premier V6 4X4 with only 60,000 miles on it for $11,995. Tows well decent millage plenty of room. Have you Considered ditching the Rogue they are pretty useless..
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Old 03-30-2016, 01:55 PM   #26
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We tow with a double cab midsize pickup. The double cab gives the seating of a sedan with a smaller (5'x 5') bed for camping gear, grills, ect. It's also nice for hauling the occasional 2 x 4, or lawn mower, or making a run to the dump. Toyota Tacoma, Nissan Frontier, or the Honda Ridgeline will all tow most eggs out there. The cost is, of course, mpg. Expect 20 mpg at best and down to 15 mpg depending on the trailer. Most guys like driving a truck and used trucks are easy to find. Years ago a fellow said to me " once you have a truck you won't want anyhng else". So far he's been right. Good luck, Raz
Raz, how long is that canoe? My truck is a crew cab Colorado which looks to be about the same as yours. My canoe is 16.5ft and I was thinking it would fit better if I used just the front roof rack and the rear support on the bed rack. I'm worried with only 2 ft between roof supports it may be unstable.
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Old 03-30-2016, 02:10 PM   #27
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You should not tie down the canoe using the cab rack and the bed rack. The bed moves independent of the cab. Bed can rotate in one direction while the cab it rotating the other. That will twist the canoe.
Both tie down points should be either on the cab or on the bed.
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Old 03-30-2016, 02:31 PM   #28
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You should not tie down the canoe using the cab rack and the bed rack. The bed moves independent of the cab. Bed can rotate in one direction while the cab it rotating the other. That will twist the canoe.
Both tie down points should be either on the cab or on the bed.
I has forgotten that, Glenn. Good advice. I am wondering what to do then. In the link below is my bed rack. There are only 4ft between racks given the 5ft bed. The canoe would stick out too far at the rear.

https://www.amazon.ca/MaxxHaul-70386...ds=truck++rack

the roof racks are even less far apart.

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