Never too old to ask: Jeeps and Towing - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-26-2012, 01:49 AM   #1
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Lite House
New Mexico
Posts: 22
Never too old to ask: Jeeps and Towing

B ][/B]
This is my first thread, so here I go for all you Road Wizzards.
I have a Trailer for Two Lite House, (just out of the package) used once.

I have 2 jeeps:
-A 2004 Liberty 3.7 with a 1&one half' inch hitch. Auto.
-A 1987 Jeep Comanche Pick up, 4.0 inline 6. 2" hitch.

Both in excellent shape.

The Lite House trailer weighs 960 pounds empty, with a tongue weight of
85 pounds.

I won't carry much..

What do I need?
Sway Bar?
Trailer Brakes?
and which would be the better Tug?

If I go with the Liberty, somebody out there knows the problem with the
rear door clearance, and so how have others owning Liberty's dealt with
with the problem?

The Light House has the door in the rear, so the spare tire is fitted to
the Trailer front.

I've noticed others have pulled with the Liberty, but don't say how.

Some say an extender is not safe.

Thanking you all for advice,

Richard
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Old 10-26-2012, 05:48 AM   #2
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Name: Donna D
Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
Oregon
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Hi Richard, welcome to FiberglassRV. We're glad you're here

I own neither vehicle or that brand of trailer, so I'll leave the answers to the experts.

Just wanted to say
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:29 AM   #3
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I have towed with 2 different Jeep Liberty's, one with 3.7 and the other with the 4 cyl diesel. Other than the door issue, you will not have any problems. You will need a wiring harness installed and if the trailer has brakes, a brake controller installed. Either hitch is fine due to your weight, not sure size of your ball, may need a 2" or smaller ball in your stinger.
The truck 4.0 is Jeep's bullet proof motor, I have the same in my 93 Cherokee. Transmission maybe an issue with towing on that model unless you have low miles, mine has 160K and is starting to leak.
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:43 PM   #4
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Oklahoma
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I like brakes on any trailer, but that is just my preference. If your axle has the backer plates to mount brakes, I say add 'em. But if not, don't fret about it.
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:52 PM   #5
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Name: Bill
Trailer: Lil Snoozy / Jeep Cherokee
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At 960 pounds you can almost tow with a bicycle. Both tugs will work fine without brakes or sway bar. You will probably forget it is there until you go to back up.
If you do decide to tow 960 pounds with a bicycle, I then advise brakes.
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Old 10-26-2012, 09:22 PM   #6
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Name: Francesca Knowles
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Put brakes on that puppy.

Until you've been pushed through an intersection by the dead weight of 1,000 pounds of trailer, you can't know what a difference functioning brakes make!
Just take my word for it...

And brakes are the only sway control you'll ever need- actuating the electric brakes in the beginning of a "sway event" will bring the trailer into line lickety-split.

Francesca
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Old 10-27-2012, 06:51 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Bill in Pittsburgh View Post
If you do decide to tow 960 pounds with a bicycle, I then advise brakes.
On just the bicycle, just the trailer or on both? We needs ter know....
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:30 AM   #8
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Name: george
Trailer: FunFinder
Missouri
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Put brakes on that puppy.



And brakes are the only sway control you'll ever need- actuating the electric brakes in the beginning of a "sway event" will bring the trailer into line lickety-split.

Francesca
I personally and respectfully disagree with your position on sway control in this quote and other statements you have made on the subject. Many, many users of sway control devices will state over and over on this other forums that sway control devices do in fact work to mitigate the side to side movements that can and sometimes do become uncontrolled "sway".
To suggest otherwise, IMO, is doing a dis-service to some who might be new to towing and may not fully understand the dynamics of a vehicle with trailer in tow.
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Old 10-27-2012, 08:55 AM   #9
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Towing with a Jeep

We also have a 2006 Jeep Liberty with a 3.7 engine and use it to tow our Burro which has a dry weight about the same as your's and more when loaded. I have towed it without trailer brakes and now with trailer brakes and although they are not required for this weight of trailer, I will tell you...it's the best upgrade we've done. When you're traveling down a highway at 60 mph and someone cuts you off, which, they will do....to be able to stop or slow down with the trailer brakes can be life saving. My suggestion...if you don't have them, get trailer brakes.
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Old 10-27-2012, 09:04 AM   #10
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There's no doubt that an anti-sway bar 'can' reduce sway.

As well a sway event can be stopped or reduced by quickly be applying just the trailer brakes. Every morning when starting up I reach for the brake controller's lever as practice and a light test of the trailer's brakes.

Unfortunately many who experience a sway condition do not know that applying just the trailer brakes will quickly put the trailer back in line in most say events.

None of my fiberglass trailers have ever swayed with or without an anti-sway bar, not that in some circumstance that they couldn't sway.

Before I ever towed a trailer I post the question, "Should I get an anti-sway bar?"

Basically this was the response to my novice question. 'Set up your trailer so it doesn't sway and drive carefully but add an anti-sway bar for that emergency that you can't foresee, someday you'll be glad you had it. They are inexpensive and no bother.'

As JMS said, trailer brakes are a great, maybe the best safety hardware investment.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:25 PM   #11
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Lite House
New Mexico
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I have towed with 2 different Jeep Liberty's, one with 3.7 and the other with the 4 cyl diesel. Other than the door issue, you will not have any problems. You will need a wiring harness installed and if the trailer has brakes, a brake controller installed. Either hitch is fine due to your weight, not sure size of your ball, may need a 2" or smaller ball in your stinger.
The truck 4.0 is Jeep's bullet proof motor, I have the same in my 93 Cherokee. Transmission maybe an issue with towing on that model unless you have low miles, mine has 160K and is starting to leak.
Thanks Jim!,

Richard
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:27 PM   #12
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Lite House
New Mexico
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GREAT SENSE OF HUMOR!

Thanks,
Richard
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:31 PM   #13
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One more suggestion, get your tongue heavier, maybe around 140 lbs, should help with sway. Can you load more up front to increase tongue weight? add a battery or tool box up front, more tongue weight, less sway.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:35 PM   #14
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Name: Richard
Trailer: Lite House
New Mexico
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
There's no doubt that an anti-sway bar 'can' reduce sway.

As well a sway event can be stopped or reduced by quickly be applying just the trailer brakes. Every morning when starting up I reach for the brake controller's lever as practice and a light test of the trailer's brakes.

Unfortunately many who experience a sway condition do not know that applying just the trailer brakes will quickly put the trailer back in line in most say events.

None of my fiberglass trailers have ever swayed with or without an anti-sway bar, not that in some circumstance that they couldn't sway.

Before I ever towed a trailer I post the question, "Should I get an anti-sway bar?"

Basically this was the response to my novice question. 'Set up your trailer so it doesn't sway and drive carefully but add an anti-sway bar for that emergency that you can't foresee, someday you'll be glad you had it. They are inexpensive and no bother.'

As JMS said, trailer brakes are a great, maybe the best safety hardware investment.
I WILL TAKE YOUR ADVICE!

THANKS SO MUCH,

RESPECTIVELY,
rIchard
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