New Axle - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-17-2012, 10:48 AM   #15
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As it doesn't seem to get mentioned here much, it's worth pointing out that all custom-ordered rubber torsion axles can be ordered with a specific load capacity. The ranges for Dexter axles, for example, are:
#9 : 1000-2200 lbs
#10 : 2300-3500 lbs

So if you want a 2500 lb axle, you can order a #10 derated to 2500.
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:10 AM   #16
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
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Thanks for correcting me Andrew.
I knew I bought the max for my #9, so I must have a 2200 lb. I found my original axle swap post which says the original axle was 1200 Lbs, the replacement was 2200.
Replacing an Axle - leading arm to trailing arm
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Old 03-17-2012, 12:18 PM   #17
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Name: Harvey
Trailer: '84 Scamp 13' & 2001 Casita 17' Spirit Deluxe
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Having just replaced the axle on my '84 Scamp 13 last August, I went with the 'weld-on/bolt-on' philosophy . My original torsion arm axle had gone from either 10* or 22.5* down angle leading arm, to more'n 10* up. Had NO flex at all other than tire sidewalls . Since I wanted to add brakes (& didn't want to go to the trouble of changing to a trailing arm arrangement I just ordered the Dexter #9, 2K#, in 22.5* down, leading arm axle w/7" electric brakes. I measured my existing axle very carefully & ordered the 'weld-on' side mount brackets so the new hubs/tires/wheels would fit in the same place. Wasn't real sure of the thickness or strength of the Scamp chassis but the existing axle bracket was a 1/4 thick piece of steel angle, already welded to the chassis so I did my computations so I could merely cut off the vertical side of the angle & weld the new side mount brackets to it.

When the new axle arrived my grandson & I set the trailer on jack stands in his shop, torched off the old axle/brackets at the pre-determined line, and dressed the torch cut with a grinder. With the side mount brackets (think they were about $16 ea??) already bolted to the new axle we lifted it into place with a floor jack, squared the axle/spindles up to the frame & coupler center, clamped it in place & spot welded the new brackets to the part of the old ones still welded in place. We then unbolted the new axle from the brackets, welded them completely to the old bracket (along with a couple of small reinforcing filets at front of new bracket & chassis joint), re-bolted the new axle in place, mounted the new wheels/tires (I went from 4 on 4" wheels to 5 on 4.5" with the new hubs), hooked up to my TV & brought it home.

Even tho the trailer had towed well with the original axle, the difference was like night & day with the new one. Using part of the existing mounting bracket made it lots easier to align & install the new axle, & it'll be easy to replace 20yrs down the road

Old axle showing where we 'torched' off the bracket, & pic of new installation
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Copy of IMG_1826.JPG   Copy of IMG_3349.JPG  

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Old 03-17-2012, 05:48 PM   #18
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Name: Darwin
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
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When I changed our 5r to bolt on axle we found out that the welded on axle from the factory was not TRUE to the frame. It was off so when we installed the new axle we trued up the new axle by measuring from the front center of the hitch to each side of the axle.

The original axle was tearing away from the welded on bracket that the factory installed. The factory paid for our new axle and about 1/2 of the welding work.
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:57 PM   #19
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Name: Harvey
Trailer: '84 Scamp 13' & 2001 Casita 17' Spirit Deluxe
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
When I changed our 5r to bolt on axle we found out that the welded on axle from the factory was not TRUE to the frame. It was off so when we installed the new axle we trued up the new axle by measuring from the front center of the hitch to each side of the axle.

The original axle was tearing away from the welded on bracket that the factory installed. The factory paid for our new axle and about 1/2 of the welding work.
That's exactly how we trued up the new axle. I've done that when building several other trailers. I always establish the 'front dead center' of the coupler & then measure from that point to the same spot on each spindle (usually either the 'live center cone' or the inner bearing journal). Surprisingly enough (to me anyway) the old axle brackets were pretty close (within 1/16") to true. That may be because the old axle was 'butted' against the lowered floor chassis which is apparently pretty true. I've encountered axle/chassis that were a lot more difficult to align properly than this one...
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Old 03-17-2012, 08:55 PM   #20
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Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Floyd,
I'd have to look up my receipts but the brackets cost somewhere between $20 and $40. They come attached to the axle from Dexter. There should be no difference in cost for welding an axle on with or without the brackets. The key difference is, the axle only needs to be welded on once, less chance of damage to the frame or metal fatigue etc.
Exactly what I said. I doubt I'll ever need more than one axle replacement given our respective life expectancies (me and the axle)
Any chance of screwing up the frame or metal fatigue is either controllable or minimal, at least offset by the possibility of broken or worn bolts or wallowed out holes. Both are remote and both are viable choices.
I own a MIG and I like what amounts to an additional frame member.
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