New Axle - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-16-2012, 11:19 AM   #1
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Question New Axle

Hi folks I was just wondering what size of axle (weight capacity) is best suited for our trailers?? I was thinking of either 2000 or 2500 lbs??
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:39 PM   #2
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When I changed the one on my boler the engineer from torflex recommended the 2500 #. If we are lucky - we run totally empty @ 1500#, with some gear we are probably in the 2000# range, the extra 500# capacity prevents overloading the axle.
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Old 03-16-2012, 12:48 PM   #3
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Our 2010 uses a #9 Dexter Torflex axle. I believe it is rated for 2000 . Raz
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:08 PM   #4
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Do yourself a favor and do a BOLT on instead of a welded on (If your present one is welded on).

Reason: In the future you could install a new bolt on yourself in just a couple of hours vers finding a welder to cut off the old one and weld on a new one.

This is a perfect time to consider raising it a few inches should you want to.
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Old 03-16-2012, 05:35 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Do yourself a favor and do a BOLT on instead of a welded on (If your present one is welded on).

Reason: In the future you could install a new bolt on yourself in just a couple of hours vers finding a welder to cut off the old one and weld on a new one.

This is a perfect time to consider raising it a few inches should you want to.
Also if the axle is welded, in the event of a warranty claim, Dexter will not cover the cost of removal or installation of a replacement. Raz
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:31 PM   #6
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:33 PM   #7
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Scamp 5rs had some bad axle installs on 5rs. Do you have a 5r.
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:35 PM   #8
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I have a trillium
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:39 PM   #9
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I'm presently having to replace the axle on my 16' Casita.
The Torflex #9 is the one the factory recommends.
Also I plan to have it bolted on. Welding around fiberglass trailers is a fire hazard if proper safety precautions are not taken.
I plan to remove all valuables before the job begins.
It would have been nice if the spindles were removable, that's what cracked.

I may have to live with the little 7" brakes, I was hoping to have 10" drums. May be overkill, but have more working room inside.
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Old 03-16-2012, 07:52 PM   #10
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Lifting the camper a few inches may give U the extra room for the 10" drums and a larger size tire. Check Portable Generators, Sprayers, Power Tools, Welders | Northern Tool + Equipment for great prices on drum / brake parts.
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:10 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Do yourself a favor and do a BOLT on instead of a welded on (If your present one is welded on).

Reason: In the future you could install a new bolt on yourself in just a couple of hours vers finding a welder to cut off the old one and weld on a new one.

This is a perfect time to consider raising it a few inches should you want to.
Once again I'm gonna swim upstream on this one.
I say weld it on.
It is simpler to reweld the axle in place and it becomes part of the frame.
I see the merits of both approaches and the advantage of bolt ons in subsequent axle changes, but hey... twenty years is a long time to wait for a benefit.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:06 AM   #12
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Floyd and I have different opinions on axle connections and I respect his opinion but in defense of my opinion I say 20 Years of use between axle swaps is provided the rubber flex stuff doesn't wear out, provided you do not bend an axle by hitting a curb, gas station island, or big pothole. We see these problems each year on this site.

Welding takes the work out of the hands of the camper owner if they are not a welder and it is a costly option.

I could replace a single axle in less that 3 hours using the bolt on option.

Jack the egg up and place on jack stands.
Remove tires and disconnect electric brake wires.
Unbolt and remove old axle.
Install and bolt up new axle (Using Lock Washers, Locktite, Lock bolts)
Install tires.
Connect the brake wires.
Remove the jack stands.
Job done.
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:40 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
Floyd and I have different opinions on axle connections and I respect his opinion but in defense of my opinion I say 20 Years of use between axle swaps is provided the rubber flex stuff doesn't wear out, provided you do not bend an axle by hitting a curb, gas station island, or big pothole. We see these problems each year on this site.

Welding takes the work out of the hands of the camper owner if they are not a welder and it is a costly option.

I could replace a single axle in less that 3 hours using the bolt on option.

Jack the egg up and place on jack stands.
Remove tires and disconnect electric brake wires.
Unbolt and remove old axle.
Install and bolt up new axle (Using Lock Washers, Locktite, Lock bolts)
Install tires.
Connect the brake wires.
Remove the jack stands.
Job done.
Your first axle must be cut off and parts purchased and installed. [I would prefer to weld the brackets in place rather than drill the frame] so any benefit will have to wait until the third axle, which should be a while, assuming there is no wreck and you don't use the "Logan's Run" method or a "fist test" for axle replacement.
Having a MIG welder in my shop does help, but hiring the "bolt on" method the first time would cost more labor and parts than simply having it welded on.
Still, properly done with welded brackets, the bolt on method has long term advantages for the DIY folks who can't weld, and possibly a small long term labor savings for those who hire it done.
I think 3 hours is more than needed for an average tech to weld in a new axle, but it might take me that long just to contemplate such a task these days.
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Old 03-17-2012, 10:34 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by floyd View Post
hiring the "bolt on" method the first time would cost more labor and parts than simply having it welded on.
Floyd,
I'd have to look up my receipts but the brackets cost somewhere between $20 and $40. They come attached to the axle from Dexter. There should be no difference in cost for welding an axle on with or without the brackets. The key difference is, the axle only needs to be welded on once, less chance of damage to the frame or metal fatigue etc.
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