New axle question - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-28-2014, 01:08 PM   #15
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Name: will
Trailer: 16' Scamp
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Originally Posted by Sohkraites View Post
Thanks all for the advice. We sorta figured it would need to be replaced... Now THAT said, what is a ball park figure for the cost of the parts?
My cost for a new Dexter # 10 axle with brakes and 3 new tire/wheel assy's was $745.00 plus local tax

Dexter has an axle order form which shows all measurements required to order a new axle.
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:00 PM   #16
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Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
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FWIW, I called scamp and ordered one for my 19'. Two days later I was installing it.

It may have cost more, but it fit right the first time, which is more than a lot of people on here can say about independent shops they had order one.


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Old 11-05-2014, 10:21 PM   #17
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Ok. The axle was ordered and received -- Redneck Trailer supply was very patient with me in getting all the measurements...and they were very easy to work with. Got the brakes, too. With the brake controller, the brakes and the axle the damage was only $550...so I thought we did pretty well...and the new axle looks great! I'll be taking it over to the welding shop where the tongue is being replaced and have the axle done at the same time.

The question is now...do I have them weld it on as a LEADING arm or have them rework some of the frame structure to make it a TRAILING arm? Obviously, it'd be easier to make it the leading arm as it is now, but I've read here on the forums that if we install it that way we may have problems. Is that the case?
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Old 11-06-2014, 03:15 AM   #18
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This should have been decided before it was ordered. You might need brackets moved, and the backing plates will need swapped side to side depending on which way the axle was built for.

My personal preference would be to have nothing to do with a leading arm setup, and convert it to trailing arm. That being said, I don't know what issues that will cause with the frame design, I've never looked under a 13'.


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Old 11-06-2014, 08:24 AM   #19
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I would think if you ordered an axle with the angle specs for leading arm then that is how you need to mount it. There are a lot of Scamps out there being towed successfully that way without issue. Now if you just want a lot of ground clearance and the axle will work (check toe in/out and camber issues) then a trailing arm setup might work. But as Jared said, this decision should have been made before ordering the axle.
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:27 AM   #20
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The original, and I do mean ORIGINAL axle was welded to the frame directly, not with a bracket welded to the frame abd the axle booked to the bracket. So, that in mind, the new axle was ordered with the leading arm specs. However, when the trailer was taken to the weld shop, the guy said he'd never seen a configuration like that...only as a trailing arm and suggested it be mounted as a trailing arm. That's why I asked. I will probably just go ahead and have him mount it the way it was ordered and originally installed.

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Old 11-06-2014, 09:31 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sohkraites View Post
The original, and I do mean ORIGINAL axle was welded to the frame directly,
Yup thats how Scamp installed the axle at the factory right up to a year or so ago.
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Old 11-06-2014, 09:46 AM   #22
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Bolers, Scamps, and even some 1972 Trilliums used a leading arm config. I am not sure why they did this, but there are thousands of them out there, and they seem to work.
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Old 11-06-2014, 12:29 PM   #23
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Name: RogerDat
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When I replaced my axle two main things caused me to go with the original leading arm configuration.

On a scamp 13 the axle is tucked into the right angle of the frame where the dining table floor rises (sometimes called the dance floor). Thus axle is anchored by welds along the vertical part of the frame and the horizontal part of the frame. Not just the horizontal part of the frame.

One of the advantages of a torsion axle is that it provides frame strength, it is a structural part of the frame. As opposed to a leaf spring axle that is detached from the frame and adds no structural strength. Removing a structural frame member from across the rear and moving it to the front seemed a more complex undertaking to do and maintain frame integrity.

That is not to say many people have not done it successfully, the shop I was at simply convinced me that "re-engineering" was probably less sound than replacement as originally designed. Pretty easy to convince me as I'm inclined that direction anyway. Heck it worked for the last 35 years why change it?

+1 on if it was ordered with specs for leading arm then installing it with that orientation is the way to go.
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