New brakes barely working

[obieturner]

Originally Posted by Wayne Collins

I wonder if somehow you have one with the brake installed backwards. In the forward direction drum brakes will self energize. In reverse they don't.
Try that weak one in reverse... ???

I overlooked that. The self energizing issue is totally appropriate. If you cannot see which direction of rotation they self energize take it to a mechanic. Perhaps a truck mechanic might best.

[The Minimalist]

If they are locking up on one side and not on the other, after several adjustments, you may need to check and see if you don't have two rights or two lefts on that axle.

[ruscal]

Grinding the linings to match the arc of the drums was the accepted method for brake jobs in the past. The asbestos dust that was generated by that process was found to be harmful to the health of workers. Grinding became a nono. Technicians then began matching the arcs by bending the linings by striking a sharp blow to the shoe using a wood block to cushion the concentrated loads provided by the hammer face. No dust that way. I have used this method, and it does work. The matching of the arcs is just judged by eye, so some road time is still required to achieve maximum friction. (bedding the shoes). I would imagine most techs omit the arcing step, and just expect the normal driving to do the job. This isn't ideal. The shoes high spots are the only contact area. They get hot and glaze, while the low spots are not touching. The outcome will be poor, and slow to develop. Expect to be underwhelmed.
Russ

[obieturner]

Wow Russ. Thanks for the info. Although there's no less dust in the end, mechanics always were a somewhat independent bunch and probably didn't connect or turn on the vacuum when they ground the shoes.

Who knows. Now that I have no grinder at my disposal I may try that myself.

[The Minimalist]

Arching the brake shoes was common back when shops actually relined the shoes. Most shoes today are arched at the factory. There will be a bit of mis-match on these if the drums are turned, but normally, burnishing the shoes, as mentioned several places above, will mate everythng properly. Bending the end of the shoes will only effect the very tip ends, as the web will prevent any further bending. Also, you better hit that shoe dead center or you're likely to have one side making greater contact than the other.

[obieturner]

Thanks again. I'm learning all kinds of good stuff.

[Joe Romas]

With NEW brakes on a new axle it would include ALL brake parts and there should be a near perfect match between shoes and drums.

After the drums are turned you should expect a difference, not on new parts.

Brake jobs were done at the service station I worked at in HS many years ago and when drums went to a then typical parts place after turning the drums they ground the shoes to match the drums.

The procedure of tightening the shoes until they locked was to perfectly seat/align them on the backing plates then back them off a certain number of "clicks".

Having to apply brakes 40-50 times from 40-20 mph sounds hazardous to me. Yes they need to seat in but not to the extent mentioned here.

[Darral T.]

Not sure why Lippert suggests that. But the method Dexter recommends sounds reasonable to me: 20-30 times slowing to 20 mph each time

I would say this is to keep someone from leaving on a trip with new brakes and let's say doing a 1K round trip. The brakes seat and are going to possibly become less effective. The trip includes a busy interstate or back roads going down steep hills/mts. I think this scenario is self-explanatory.

Then I have to ask which sounds the most hazardous?

Originally Posted by Joe Romas

Having to apply brakes 40-50 times from 40-20 mph sounds hazardous to me. Yes they need to seat in but not to the extent mentioned here.

[Joe Romas]

Originally Posted by Darral T.

Then I have to ask which sounds the most hazardous?

Neither sound good to me!
I'm able to do my own repairs and don't have to depend on others.

But if the brake on one side is not good enough to stop the wheel when spun by hand off the ground there's a problem that needs addressed.

[hhcomp6]

I put this thread on another spot on this forum and found this one about brakes, Iam not very good about using these forums yet.
I have a Tekonsha P3 Trailer Brake Controller in my 2017 Ram 1500 I pull a 22 foot enclosed trailer 2 axle. The controller worked good the first 2 times I used it. Now no matter where I set the voltage it will just apply the brakes alittle bit it won't even hold the truck in drive at idle.
I checked all the wires etc. everything fine. I just bought a new 2 axle horse trailer brand new never pulled and it does the same thing, the controller seems to be setting up right and everything looks right on the little screen. I ordered a different brand of controller I haven't received yet but was wondering if anybody else has had that problem with this type of controller.
I have also checked the shoes to drum and they are set to just rub the drum alittle, the enclosed trailer worked fine the first 700 miles then the next time I pulled it about 6 months after the first time is when this started happening. I was reading in another web site that some people have had these controllers either lock up or do the same thing mine is doing, I just can't believe 2 trailers and 1 of them is brand new never pulled but about 25 miles won't put the brakes on like they should. Thanks for any input??
Rick

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by hhcomp6

I put this thread on another spot on this forum and found this one about brakes, Iam not very good about using these forums yet.
I have a Tekonsha P3 Trailer Brake Controller in my 2017 Ram 1500 I pull a 22 foot enclosed trailer 2 axle. The controller worked good the first 2 times I used it. Now no matter where I set the voltage it will just apply the brakes alittle bit it won't even hold the truck in drive at idle.
I checked all the wires etc. everything fine. I just bought a new 2 axle horse trailer brand new never pulled and it does the same thing, the controller seems to be setting up right and everything looks right on the little screen. I ordered a different brand of controller I haven't received yet but was wondering if anybody else has had that problem with this type of controller.
I have also checked the shoes to drum and they are set to just rub the drum alittle, the enclosed trailer worked fine the first 700 miles then the next time I pulled it about 6 months after the first time is when this started happening. I was reading in another web site that some people have had these controllers either lock up or do the same thing mine is doing, I just can't believe 2 trailers and 1 of them is brand new never pulled but about 25 miles won't put the brakes on like they should. Thanks for any input??
Rick

Check the fuse for the circuit of the 7 pin in the truck, it may have blown.