New Smaller tow vehicle choices?? - Page 4 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-18-2007, 10:39 AM   #43
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I am new to this site. I have a 73 Boler and am planning on towing it with my 04 Corolla this summer. Probably no further than about 200klm if that and I am in Saskatchewan so pretty much level ground. Any suggestions??

Thanks,
Robin

If your Corolla is an automatic transmission make sure you have a transmission cooler installed. Any tow vehicle with an auto tran should have a trans cooler, especially the smaller ones.
John
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Old 02-24-2007, 11:17 PM   #44
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...In this case, taking 300 lb off of the rear axle would not add 150 lb to each of the trailer and front axles (as assumed); instead, it would add 186 lb to the front axle and 114 to the trailer...
I read the diagram which shows these 150 lb values and missed that CD had more sensible values in the table:

400 lb taken off the rear axle
balanced by
250 lb added to the front axle and
150 lb added to the trailer axle

Using the lever ratios, if the WD bars were cranked enough...
400 lb taken off the rear axle
would be balanced by
190"/308" x 400 lb = 246 lb added to the front axle and
118"/308" x 400 lb = 153 lb added to the trailer axle

Almost dead on, CD , but not because a WD system distributes equally, but because the wheelbase of the Escalade is 1/2 of the distance from trailer axle to tug axle (in this case), and the ball-to-rear-axle distance is half the wheelbase. Any other relationship between dimensions, and the ratio will be different.
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Old 02-25-2007, 03:16 PM   #45
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Yes, Brian. We are about to leave on our first trip this year. Before we leave I hope to measure the actual loads on the spring pars and recalculate the table and figure accordingly.

More to follow.
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:13 AM   #46
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I posted this question in another area of this site, but this seems like the best place to ask my question. I am going to Backus MN to pick up my new Scamp 13 in a couple of weeks(weather permitting). I drive a 2004 Jeep Wrangler with the straight 6 engine. I feel the Jeep can tow this trailer (around 1700-1800 lbs fully loaded) due to the motor, but I am concerned with sway etc at speeds. I had brakes installed on the trailer and I have a top of the line brake controller, I also had air bags installed in the rear spring for load leveling in case I need it. The hitch is 8000 pounds and the Jeep is in excellent shape. The question: Do any of you feel I will have problems or "white knuckle" experiences with this rig? Thanks

Bob
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:28 AM   #47
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We never had a sway problem towing of 13' with our Honda Element over 20,000 miles. Rock solid even when the big rigs pass by 2' away!

Enjoy your trip! I do recommend 60 MPH.
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Old 02-27-2007, 12:59 PM   #48
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We never had a sway problem towing of 13' with our Honda Element over 20,000 miles. Rock solid even when the big rigs pass by 2' away!

Enjoy your trip! I do recommend 60 MPH.
Thanks Patrick...nice to get the info before I start towing...this is really an excellent site and I am most please with all of the help and info from folks like you. Good luck in your adventures.

LIFE IS GOOD!
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Old 02-27-2007, 02:10 PM   #49
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..The question: Do any of you feel I will have problems or "white knuckle" experiences with this rig?
Just the topic you need:
[b]Towing with a Jeep CJ, YJ, TJ, LC FJ-40, LR SIII 80?, Share your tales here
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Old 02-27-2007, 02:34 PM   #50
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Exactly! Its a relative term. My Excursion's wheelbase was short in comparison to a 34' tri-axle trailer. At nearly 20' long however, it's more than enough for any of the fiberglass trailers, including my 25' Bigfoot. A Jeep CJ/TJ/YJ is too short for ANY camping trailer application. A shortbed standard cab F150 or Chevy 10 may not be enough wheelbase for many trailers, but would be adequate for most fiberglass RVs. etc. etc. ad nauseum.

Rog
Ok, Roger, you've got me a little worried. Your statement above about the Jeep is where my problem lies...I am picking up a 13 Scamp, tow with a 2004 Jeep Wrangler. I have been told by many folks, some at this site that I won't have a problem I have breaks on the trailer and air bags on the Jeep for potential load leveling problems.....so what do you think....am I going to need a sway bar and trans cooler? Are you saying that the short wheel base of the Jeep is going to cause me problems, and if so, what kinds of problems and can they be fixed? Thanks.

LIFE IS GOOD1
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Old 02-27-2007, 06:25 PM   #51
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Good Day

Ok I will way in on this topic. We had bought a 2002 Acura TL before we made the purchase of our 2004 Trillium. It seem to tow find home on some hills from Pugwash NS up to NB. The car is rated for 1000 lbs and the hitch is 1500 lbs. The trailer is about 1500 lbs. I have been searching for answers on this topic for many months now with little success. The Hensley Arrow might be an answer but could be over kill. The TL has a 3.2 V6 putting out horsepower of 225. The power doesn't seem to be the issue but not wanting to damage the vehicle we love we are at a loss for sure what to do next. Buying a small truck might be an answer. Very confusing isn't it.

D
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Old 02-27-2007, 09:04 PM   #52
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Automatic transmissions should have an transmission oil cooler added. They are not expensive. That's just one issue. I'll let the experts write about the rest.
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Old 02-28-2007, 01:35 PM   #53
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...The Hensley Arrow might be an answer but could be over kill.
Hensley's Arrow design moves the effective pivot point for turning ahead of where the ball actually is. This is intended to help stability, and I can believe that it does.

The problem is that this design also moves the ball (the point where the weight is carried) back almost a foot, which will do horrible things to axle loads. That, and the enormous weight of this hitch sized for trailers weighing several tons, means the weight-distribution feature (two spring bars, just like other WD hitches) would become really needed.

It's a clever design, and an interesting idea for smaller cars, but I can't believe that the one available model would be suitable, even if the Acura had the required 2" hitch receiver box. I agree that it is overkill.

By the way, an Arrow costs about US$3,000.
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Old 02-28-2007, 02:06 PM   #54
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I pulled my 1400 lb trailer for two years with a Nissan Maxima (196 hp, V6, curb weight about 3400 lbs., class II hitch, and tow rating of 2000 lbs.). The car had plenty of power and stopping ability. The major complaints I had were lack of much storage and soft rear suspension. Many mid-size cars would make okay tow vehicles if the hitch manufacturers would make a class III available. Then WDH could be used to help the rear sag. I'm sure the "catch 22" for the hitch makers is too little demand and big liability issues. Most mid-size cars don't even have rear air springs available.

So, short of finding someone to custom make a class III hitch, there seems to be little one can do to make things better. I gave up and bought a minivan.

Tom Trostel

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Old 03-01-2007, 02:36 PM   #55
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After all the conversation on this topic it looks like the best answer is to buy a used Truck, Suv or Minivan with the ability to put a class III hitch on and enjoy the traveling and stop worrying about the vehicle........smile

D
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Old 03-01-2007, 04:14 PM   #56
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Quote:
I posted this question in another area of this site, but this seems like the best place to ask my question. I am going to Backus MN to pick up my new Scamp 13 in a couple of weeks(weather permitting). I drive a 2004 Jeep Wrangler with the straight 6 engine. I feel the Jeep can tow this trailer (around 1700-1800 lbs fully loaded) due to the motor, but I am concerned with sway etc at speeds. I had brakes installed on the trailer and I have a top of the line brake controller, I also had air bags installed in the rear spring for load leveling in case I need it. The hitch is 8000 pounds and the Jeep is in excellent shape. The question: Do any of you feel I will have problems or "white knuckle" experiences with this rig? Thanks

Bob
Hi: I 75!!! Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
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