New Smaller tow vehicle choices?? - Page 5 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-01-2007, 04:37 PM   #57
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After all the conversation on this topic it looks like the best answer is to buy a used Truck, Suv or Minivan with the ability to put a class III hitch on and enjoy the traveling and stop worrying about the vehicle........smile

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Old 03-01-2007, 07:04 PM   #58
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After all the conversation on this topic it looks like the best answer is to buy a used Truck, Suv or Minivan with the ability to put a class III hitch on and enjoy the traveling and stop worrying about the vehicle...
This is certainly a valid approach. When we bought our minivan (with no intention at the time of towing), I reasoned that the vehicle which we used for long vacation trips should be the good one in the family "fleet", rather than the cheap "extra" one, because it was on exactly those trips that comfort and reliability were most important.

If the trailer towing trips are relatively local, and owning a second vehicle is not a problem, then a used truck is an obvious choice - it doesn't even need to have good fuel economy if the trips are short enough.

For someone not in a position to own two new vehicles, each ideally suited their assigned tasks (one for daily use and one for towing), I think a compromise slanted toward the majority of the use (which isn't towing for most of us) makes sense.
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Old 03-04-2007, 02:14 PM   #59
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As I had mentioned in a previous post, I plan on towing my boler with my 2004 Corolla. While getting serviced the other day I inquired at the dealership about towing and the transmission cooler. I was told that as long as I stay within my towing limit, I would not need a cooler.
But when I called Ziebart for a price on a hitch, the guy there said he would recommend a tranmission cooler regardless of the weight. His price was fairly decent for both (actually for both was even a little less than just a hitch at the dealership) so I think I will get it all done just to be safe.

Robin
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Old 03-04-2007, 04:46 PM   #60
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Trailer: 77surfside TM 14 & 79 argosy
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"We have a Surfside and I believe they weigh in around 1400lbs without being loaded....."


What a great trailer choice. i had a dakota (6 cylinder) before i purchased the trailer. put a good hitch on and have had no problem towing. an automatic is not the most desired option by me, but turning overdrive off in the mountains and it's smooth sailing. i can easliy and comfortably haul and pass on thoes long highway weekends. i would not go less than 6 cylinders, being stuck behind thoes 85km/hrs is painfull.



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as you can see we haul into some pretty fun areas and a 2 wheel drive just won't cut it.
having first kid just in time for prime camping season and have aquired another dakota with a little more cab space. will be soon posting the original 77 surfside manuals in the appropriate area, wait till you see what it says about towing options. 70's must have been quite a ride.

i am a big advocate of the "spare" vehicle notion. a reliable one to tow and something economical to commute. save the impressively fuel effecient for the daily grind.
haul egg folks
janel
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Old 03-06-2007, 01:39 PM   #61
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[quote]I have done the calculations for my RV/TV combination.

Attachment 6259

CD, in this analysis the Escalade's rear axle weight, without Casita, is higher than the front (URW greater than UFW); however, the calculated Loaded Center of Mass is shown as closer to the front (UFP less than URP).
The equilibrium relationship (given on the UFP row) looks right, so are the UFP and URP values just reversed? They're so close (mass centred near the middle of the wheelbase) that I didn't notice it at first.

None of the later calculations refer to UFP or URP, but if these distances were used as working values for another calculation, then that calc might be out by a bit too.
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Old 03-06-2007, 04:33 PM   #62
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CD, in this analysis the Escalade's rear axle weight, without Casita, is higher than the front (URW greater than UFW); however, the calculated Loaded Center of Mass is shown as closer to the front (UFP less than URP).
The equilibrium relationship (given on the UFP row) looks right, so are the UFP and URP values just reversed? They're so close (mass centred near the middle of the wheelbase) that I didn't notice it at first.

None of the later calculations refer to UFP or URP, but if these distances were used as working values for another calculation, then that calc might be out by a bit too.
You are absolutely correct. The numbers for UFP and URP are reversed. These numbers were not used in the remaining calculations. At least I got it right when I entered LFP/LRP.

Thanks for the feedback.

I have recently remeasured the Casita tongue weight and the load on the torsion bars of the WDH. I will post these numbers when I have time to complete the calculations.

And, perhaps a revision to my original post with real numbers for the weight distribution from the WDH rather than an assumption that the wight is evenly distributed to the three axles.
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Old 03-06-2007, 06:23 PM   #63
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Thanks, CD!
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Old 03-06-2007, 07:00 PM   #64
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Hey guys, I had a Toyota T-100 V6 5 speed manual for ten years and pulled numerous campers on a 600 round mile trip over the West Va. Turnpike. On the famous 7 mile grade my truck bogged down to 20 - 30 mph. in 2nd. gear. I then switched to a v-8 Tundra with 4.7 l. engine and at. and it makes all the difference in the world on the same grade . The total 600 mile trip uses the same amt. of fuel with less effort on the engine. Dont know what all this means but I am happier with the extra power when I need it.
I can't imagine trying to figure out the math on a few hundred pounds of trailer wt, what with the wt. dist. and everything else that has to be considered. I now have a 13 ft. trailer weighing around 1800 lbs. loaded and it's nice to not be bogged down not knowing if you're going to make it or not. I do use a Drawtite anti sway bar which does nothing for wt. dist. I also like the truck as it's nice for hauling all the extras you always need while camping. I'd also like to mention that I pull other trailers- utility- so the truck does other jobs as well. Happy Camping Bill
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Old 03-07-2007, 10:00 AM   #65
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Hey guys, I had a Toyota T-100 V6 5 speed manual for ten years and pulled numerous campers on a 600 round mile trip over the West Va. Turnpike. On the famous 7 mile grade my truck bogged down to 20 - 30 mph. in 2nd. gear. I then switched to a v-8 Tundra with 4.7 l. engine and at. and it makes all the difference in the world on the same grade . The total 600 mile trip uses the same amt. of fuel with less effort on the engine. Dont know what all this means but I am happier with the extra power when I need it.
[b]I can't imagine trying to figure out the math on a few hundred pounds of trailer wt, what with the wt. dist. and everything else that has to be considered. I now have a 13 ft. trailer weighing around 1800 lbs. loaded and it's nice to not be bogged down not knowing if you're going to make it or not. I do use a Drawtite anti sway bar which does nothing for wt. dist. I also like the truck as it's nice for hauling all the extras you always need while camping. I'd also like to mention that I pull other trailers- utility- so the truck does other jobs as well. Happy Camping Bill

Figuring out the math is a "piece-of-cake".

Getting your URW confused with UFP confused with URP and URW plus UFP confused with URW plus URP or was it UFP squared minus the absolute value of . . . . ?

Oh well, never mind.

Anything above 5 liters, give-or-take a little, will surely pull a Scamp just fine.

Loren
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:48 AM   #66
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Hi,

We've got a 13' Trillium that we tow with a Hyundai Sonata V6. Have had it in the mountains and it has adequate power - even with the vehicle in tow, it had more power than a VW diesel sedan or motorhomes that we've had in similar areas.

-Don
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:23 AM   #67
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As I had mentioned in a previous post, I plan on towing my boler with my 2004 Corolla. While getting serviced the other day I inquired at the dealership about towing and the transmission cooler. I was told that as long as I stay within my towing limit, I would not need a cooler.
But when I called Ziebart for a price on a hitch, the guy there said he would recommend a tranmission cooler regardless of the weight. His price was fairly decent for both (actually for both was even a little less than just a hitch at the dealership) so I think I will get it all done just to be safe.

Robin
Robin - your car has a tow capacity of 1500 pounds, plenty for the Boler. It was specifically designed to be towed by smaller vehicles. If your dealer says you don't need a transmission cooler, you don't. Canadians have a cold problem more than a heat problem; if you decide to install a tranny cooler, make sure it has a relief valve to ensure that fluid continues to circulate when (not if) the fluid in the trans cooler gels - otherwise you can kill your transmission in cold weather. No worries towing your Boler with the Corolla - this will work fine and be great fun.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:01 AM   #68
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"Hey guys, I had a Toyota T-100 V6 5 speed manual for ten years and pulled numerous campers on a 600 round mile trip over the West Va. Turnpike. On the famous 7 mile grade my truck bogged down to 20 - 30 mph. in 2nd. gear. I then switched to a V-8 Tundra with 4.7 L. engine "

Toyota has changed their engine design in the last few years. Now their 4 L V6 pulls more like their older small V8's. Take one for a test drive and put the pedal to the metal. The pulling power from their V6 is amazing. The Tacoma Pre-Runner and 4-Runner is a smaller truck and really works well with the new 4 L V6. I was a skeptic until I rode in a friends and then took a few out from the dealer to test drive. My wife is always telling me to slow down it drives so smooth up mountains and I find I am in fact usually breaking the speed limit pulling 2000 lbs. I am about to pick up a new 17' Casita and I will report how that goes at a later date.
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:34 PM   #69
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...I have a 73 Boler and am planning on towing it with my 04 Corolla this summer. Probably no further than about 200klm if that and I am in Saskatchewan so pretty much level ground. Any suggestions??
Yes, I suggest that you carefully consider the total weight of the loaded car and loaded trailer (which is called the [b]gross combined weight or GCW). While the current Corolla can handle hundreds of pounds of passengers and cargo while not towing, and up to 1500 lb of trailer with only the driver in the car, you cannot assume that you can load the car up to its limit and attach the maximum weight of trailer at the same time. Well, you can... but maybe you shouldn't.

The main limit on total weight (the rating or limit for this weight is the GCWR) is drivetrain reliability. Even 200 km of wheat-growing land could be an excessive engine strain (meaning probably excessive heat load) if it means a couple of hours of continued high-speed (and therefore high power load) operation. For those not familiar with this area, the 40-below winters are complemented by summer conditions which can be hot enough for cooling to be a real issue.

Another factor, in addition to the drivetrain, is [b]braking. Check your manual, but I am confident that it will say trailer brakes are required for a trailer (including cargo in the trailer) over 1000 lb - that's the limit for the mechanically identical Matrix, and is a common Toyota limit.

While this is specific to the Corolla, the factors are similar for any vehicle, and the weight limits are similar for cars of this overall size and engine size.
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Old 05-19-2007, 06:15 AM   #70
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I'm a newby, just purchased my first "egg". A 13ft 1975 Trillium. I've been looking all thru this site & it seems here would be the place to ask this question. Anybody know the weights - the dry/unloaded (is this the correct term??) weight & the tongue/hitch weight of this trailer? & how to I check if it has brakes. I'm planning on towing with my '91 Eagle 2000gtx (towing capacity of 2000lbs/90lbs with trailer brakes). (NO mountains) Will my car work with this trailer? (I was told a compact car could tow it) & would I need a transmission cooling unit? Or any other additional things to make this work?
Any & all info would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
LOVE this site!!! LOTS of GREAT info
Joan
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