No Current to Brakes on Our New 2013 Casita - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-16-2016, 07:06 AM   #15
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Your brakes may be just fine. Let me TRY to explain. When you energize the brake circuit, a magnet "grabs" the drum on the drum face surface. Then the magnet holding onto the drum engages the brake shoes. The forward rotation of the drum is what puts pressure on the shoes. For the brakes to work, the wheels have to be turning. I know you said you spun them, but maybe not enough. If you are getting power to the magnet, hitch the trailer up and drive forward. When moving slowly, you should be able to feel the brakes working as well as hear the noise of the shoes contacting the drum. Hope this explains it and helps .
This is a good explanation of how it works, but I wish to make a minor correction, if you don't mind. The magnet sticks to the face of the drum immediately, regardless of rotation. The rotation moves the magnet, the lever on which it is mounted and that lever spreads the shoes. So you can test it all after jacking up the wheel (taking all necessary precautions, of course!).
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Old 05-16-2016, 07:25 AM   #16
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No Current to Brakes on Our New 2013 Casita

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Old 05-16-2016, 08:40 AM   #17
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To measure current requires that the current flow through the meter. Sounds like you were doing voltage measurements ??

Pulling the break away switch will power the trailer brakes with the trailer battery. If the brakes engage then you have eliminated the trailer brake wiring as an issue.

To test the brake controller you can look for a voltage at the brake pin on the 7 pin plug at the rear of the tow vehicle while a helper manually activates the controller. If after adjustment you can't get a voltage there you may need to call the Ford dealer.
I was using a test light, not a meter. I can use a meter on the brake pin—but would I see any voltage when the trailer is not connected? Certainly didn't light up the test lamp when the brake pedal was pressed, even though the light pins were hot.

I'm going to go out on a quiet road and test the controller/brakes and see what happens.

/Mr Lynn
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:11 AM   #18
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Good News!

Good News! The brakes ARE working!

At the highest gain (10.0) driving slowly, I was able to lock up the brakes using the manual actuator (the squeezy control). Then I reduced the gain and settled on 7.0 for now, which seems to provide braking without lockup.

So I think we can say that the electric brakes are working. With the manual control I can feel the trailer brakes without touching the Expy's.

Thanks to all, but especially to Steve Dunham for this tip:

Quote:
Your factory brake controller is proportional and increases the braking power based on speed and forward momentum. Since you are parked and not moving the brake controller will sense this and send little power to the trailer brakes when the brake pedal is pushed. . .
I'm tempted to have a shop go over the brakes and bearings, though; wonder if my auto mechanics will do it. No trailer shops in our town.

But for the moment, I think we're in business!

/Mr Lynn
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:25 AM   #19
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GREAT NEWS . Go camping and enjoy yourself. There is always a great sense of satisfaction when you solve a problem on your own with a just a little bit of guidance. I too have my gain set at 7.0 and it works for me. CONGRATULATIONS.
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Old 05-16-2016, 11:36 AM   #20
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This is a good explanation of how it works, but I wish to make a minor correction, if you don't mind. The magnet sticks to the face of the drum immediately, regardless of rotation. The rotation moves the magnet, the lever on which it is mounted and that lever spreads the shoes. So you can test it all after jacking up the wheel (taking all necessary precautions, of course!).
Yes, I thought that is what I did say. For sure that is what I was trying to say. The point I was trying to make is that some substantial wheel turning is required to get breaking action.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:11 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mr Lynn View Post
Good News! The brakes ARE working!

At the highest gain (10.0) driving slowly, I was able to lock up the brakes using the manual actuator (the squeezy control). Then I reduced the gain and settled on 7.0 for now, which seems to provide braking without lockup.

So I think we can say that the electric brakes are working. With the manual control I can feel the trailer brakes without touching the Expy's.

Thanks to all, but especially to Steve Dunham for this tip:



I'm tempted to have a shop go over the brakes and bearings, though; wonder if my auto mechanics will do it. No trailer shops in our town.

But for the moment, I think we're in business!

/Mr Lynn
Good idea. Any good mechanic can grease your bearings and check the brakes. Better than an RV shop in my opinion. Raz
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