Outer Edge Tire Wear - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-31-2014, 07:24 AM   #15
MC1
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Name: Wayne
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Good day Eric. The small red assembly is the laser which was designed to be mounted on a common level. I simply glued extension pieces to it so it extends outside the body/tire area.

In my case for the test I parked the car in my driveway about 40' in front of my garage.

To check tow in/out I just placed a large piece of card board in front of the vehicle (right at the bumper) and mark with a pencil the laser spot. Take the laser level to the other side of the car and do the same.

Then open the garage door and place that cardboard against the back wall. In the darkness of the garage it is easier to see the laser dots. Then do the laser test again. If the car wheels are dead on straight the laser marks left and right will be in the same spots as they were when you did the test with the cardboard at the front bumper.

If the distance between the dots at the garage are wider then when measured at the front of the vehicle then you have a tow out condition.
If the distance is narrower then you would have a tow in condition. You need to look up you vehicles specs to review if you are in spec. Some vehicles specify some degree of tow in.

Hope this helps explain the basics Eric. Ask more questions if my post is not clear. Thnxs for your interest.

Wayne
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Old 10-31-2014, 08:25 AM   #16
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Back (WAAAY back) when we were racing we used string for "cotton" lasers to measure the toe in and to line ip the front and rear wheels and axles of cars. The string is taped to the back of the tire and then brought to the front until it just touches the sidewall of the tire. This is a line parallet to the tire in whichever directio you want to run it.
This helps line up the axles on the trailer when you install a new one so that it is in line with the car, centered on the hitch etc.
Works good and is cheap.
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Old 10-31-2014, 09:07 AM   #17
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JD.... another smart system that I'm sure works well. Once the string is pulled tight it would be as straight as any laser. Nice!
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:07 AM   #18
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Name: Chas
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I can't answer for you Drew, I can only answer for myself. The original Alko axle on my trailer was of marginal weight. I THINK it was only rated for 2200#. I went with a 3500# axle with a 45 degree down. In hindsite, I should have chosen a 3500# axle with a 22 down and a lift bolt on bracket. It would have accomplished the same thing (I wanted 15" tires). I'm certainly not unhappy with what I have. It tows really, really well.

I wish you luck!
Donna,

I'm also interested in running larger tires on my '02 16' Scamp. Did you have the axle installed in Oregon? If so, who did it and did they supply all the parts? .....and did you have to do any cutting of the fiberglass, etc to get the 15" wheels to work?

By the way, my right side tire looked almost exactly like the one posted by DrewSK. I replaced both tires, but have no faith that it won't happen again. I suspect that the damage occurred very rapidly - maybe less than 200 miles, because I check the condition of the tires regularly. Scary to think what would have happened if the tire had failed at 60mph.

Thanks,
CVZ
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Old 12-16-2014, 04:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by MC1 View Post
I made up a tool using a level and laser. It is not an exact science but quite accurate.
Good system Wayne, similar to standard alignment machines used in the 1970's and 80's. One recommendation is that you need to set a baseline for each wheel, if you just place the level on one spot on the rim and use that as a measure you have no idea if the rim is true or bent, a bent rim will definitely give you a false reading. Ideally you should set the laser (level) at a number of points around the rim and check where the light indicates on the target.

On the commercial machines the "alignment head" connects to the centre hub surface and then the wheel is lifted and the tire rotated, there are adjustment screws that allow the head to be precisely trued.

When using the string method you lift the wheel and scribe a line around the tire (using a scribe or sharpened chalk, etc). The measurement can then be taken from the scribed line which will be true in rotation no matter how bent the wheel may be.
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Old 12-16-2014, 04:12 PM   #20
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Here's a guide to aligning your car at home, with very simple tools.

George's Do-It-Yourself Alignment Guide

-- Dan Meyer
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Old 12-16-2014, 06:54 PM   #21
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Here's a guide to aligning your car at home, with very simple tools.

George's Do-It-Yourself Alignment Guide

-- Dan Meyer
I would use this with another word of caution. A degree of camber or less outside of specification and 1/16" toe in or toe out can all cause considerable tire wear. I have used the string method but only to align the wheels close enough to drive to a proper alignment shop. The theory on this method works but there are so many variables that can cause error.
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