Outsmarted myself on bearings - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 02-04-2016, 12:08 PM   #15
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Carol H's Avatar
Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,711
Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
Do you guys buy extra bearings for your tow vehicle as well and change/repack them every year? People use the excuse "Dexter" is the manufacturer and should know what they're talking about. They do NOT manufacture the bearings. They've (Dexter) all but admitted to me that they do this so people cant call in SHOULD they have problems and blame it on them! I dunno how many mechanics I've talked to about this and they just shake their head.

There is a big difference between how a newer model auto wheel bearing is sealed vs how a trailer wheel bearing is sealed. A trailer bearing is at a far higher risk of moisture & dirt contamination than that of an autos. A bearings longitivtiy is also greatly impacted by the load it carries.

I do not know why the auto mechanics you have talked to would shake their heads as I would think most would know that many/most newer model cars with ABS systems have very well sealed bearings - in fact so well sealed replacing them involves replacing the hub - at a cost of a couple of hundred dollars or more a hub. They are made and designed to go a long time between replacement - many about 100-150,000 miles.

Have had two different friends in the past year or so get stuck in the small towns for 2 days while they wait for FedEx to deliver a much needed trailer wheel bearing and seal to the only repair shop for miles.

When was the last time you heard of someone getting stuck in a small town for days due to an auto wheel bearing failure?

Having had a new wheel bearing failure, carrying an extra set of bearings and seals for the trailer is cheap insurance that I don't end up wasting a couple of days vacation waiting for parts!!


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Old 02-04-2016, 01:00 PM   #16
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 770
I think that the EZ Lube setup will do a perfectly adequate job lubricating the wheel bearings on the dry trailer. It flushes out the old grease and you can inspect what comes out.
Follow directions and Jack up the wheel and slowly rotate it while pumping in the new grease also slowly.
Pump too fast and you might be able to blow past the inner seal and contaminate the brakes.
Eventually you should pull the wheel and drum and inspect the brakes etc.
If you don't spin the wheel you might over fill the bearings.
Warm grease and hubs would help.
Perhaps a short drive before greasing and keeping the grease gun in a warm spot as well.

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