ParkLiner owners - how are your saftey chains attached? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-30-2013, 01:23 PM   #29
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I saw that, I hope that the jack is guaranteed forever.

"DO NOT DRILL" is a warning usually seen on OTR truck frames. On a trailer, two 3/8" holes, in the top web shouldn't compromise the frame. And welding leaves open the issue with spot heating, bad welds, rust, and the inability to easily change the chain in the future.
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Old 10-30-2013, 01:24 PM   #30
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I'm at my moms and my setup is like Brian's but only 2 bolts...will post the photo when I get home.
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Old 10-30-2013, 01:26 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Well now you know for sure why it was wrapped around everything - added strength
Are you really surprised ?
As a matter of fact Carol, I WAS surprised!

Frank
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Old 10-30-2013, 01:30 PM   #32
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I saw that, I hope that the jack is guaranteed forever.

"DO NOT DRILL" is a warning usually seen on OTR truck frames. On a trailer, two 3/8" holes, in the top web shouldn't compromise the frame. And welding leaves open the issue with spot heating, bad welds, rust, and the inability to easily change the chain in the future.
Actually I think I will explore two holes per side. I like the idea of using u-bolts for chain attachment. I have not really looked at the frame closely yet, and may not have time before it gets dark on me tonight. I need to stop and see a man about a carport to park the trailer under, then hit the town office where they have left me a building permit application.

I won't be towing this baby anywhere for at least 6 months anyways!

Thanks all.

Frank
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:25 PM   #33
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Just got home, so here is the promised photo..
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safetychain2.jpg  
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:45 PM   #34
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After what happened to me a couple years ago I'd be a bit Leary of the ParkLiner lashup for safety chains.

As it so happened the coupler came off the ball and the tongue hit the pavement. I was only going between 5 and 10mph. My Scamp has a short flat piece of steel welded to the frame with hole that has a bolt through to hold the safety chains. The impact bent the steel piece and broke one side of the safety chains. It was no big deal to remove the bolt and replace both bolt and safety chain.

With the PL the chain wrapped around the tongue jack it appears that you could bend the tongue jack to make it unusable. Also you could bend the coupler so that it would take a welder to cut off the coupler and replace that.

In my case a new chain, new bolt, new nut, new washers, and about 5 minutes of work and all repaired. I didn't worry about the bent piece, it still worked just fine. I had thought I might have to have that piece replaced, but that still wouldn't have been very expensive. I was also over 2,000 miles away from home.

Just some things to think about.


P.S. My trailer only weighs 1700 lbs.
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:51 PM   #35
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I guess another ParkLiner changes but each of my 2 chains is separatly bolted to the frame, so if one bolt failed the other would still be holding... lets see a pic of yours byron
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:57 PM   #36
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Just got home, so here is the promised photo..
Good photo Deryk. Seems to me from looking at yours that the strength of the bolt and washers is key to your system functioning properly. As a minimum, I would use high strength bolts with thick and much larger diameter washers on them to keep the chain from "popping loose" when under strain.

regards
dave
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Old 10-30-2013, 04:58 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
"DO NOT DRILL" is a warning usually seen on OTR truck frames. On a trailer, two 3/8" holes, in the top web shouldn't compromise the frame. And welding leaves open the issue with spot heating, bad welds, rust, and the inability to easily change the chain in the future.
A load on a box beam causes the top to be in compression and the bottom to be in tension with the stresses distributed evenly across the top and bottom. When a hole is drilled, the stress is now concentrated in the remaining area. I would suggest that how big a hole before failure is a question best left to an engineer. But if you think a 3/8" hole is ok, who am I to argue. I couldn't even begin to do that calculation. Take care, Raz
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:09 PM   #38
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A load on a box beam causes the top to be in compression and the bottom to be in tension with the stresses distributed evenly across the top and bottom. When a hole is drilled, the stress is now concentrated in the remaining area. I would suggest that how big a hole before failure is a question best left to an engineer. But if you think a 3/8" hole is ok, who am I to argue. I couldn't even begin to do that calculation. Take care, Raz
Generally what I do for holes through rectangular tubing is weld a round tube in with an i.d. the size of the bolt I want to use. This takes stress off the rectangular tubing. I did that when I built my hot rod chassis years ago. What I am going to do in this case though is set mine up like Deryk's. I may do it a bit different, but similar. Pics when it gets done.

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 10-30-2013, 05:23 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by deryk View Post
I guess another ParkLiner changes but each of my 2 chains is separatly bolted to the frame, so if one bolt failed the other would still be holding... lets see a pic of yours byron

I thought about your request, and decided that wasn't the intention of my post to say that my set is the best or proper or ??
What I'm suggesting is that you look at how the chain is attached and if coupler should come off the ball and dig into the pavement whats gong to happen when the end of the chains are hit. What can be damaged and how difficult would it be to move the trailer or fix if that should happen.

What you do is up to you.
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Old 10-31-2013, 06:25 AM   #40
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....I've drilled lots of holes in trailer frames and never had a crack emanate from one (at least that I know) or any kind of a failure. .
It can happen! Here's a link to a cracked frame on a Casita due to drilled holes in the frame. Those of you that aren't members of CasitaForum won't be able to view the thread. http://www.casitaforum.com/invboard/...n-frame-drama/

You make your decisions, you take your chances. Knowledge is power!
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Old 10-31-2013, 06:37 AM   #41
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Good lord.... did I ever mention how I really struggle with my little phones screen and no glasses and auto type! At least I have never sent a text to my boss saying I cant come to work because I am at home in bed with a clown! instead of saying a cold!
Inquiring minds want to know... Who was the clown?
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:01 AM   #42
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It can happen! Here's a link to a cracked frame on a Casita due to drilled holes in the frame. Those of you that aren't members of CasitaForum won't be able to view the thread. http://www.casitaforum.com/invboard/...n-frame-drama/

You make your decisions, you take your chances. Knowledge is power!
I didn't say it couldn't happen Donna, just that it never happened to me. Also, I was talking about drilling holes through one piece of steel, not through chassis tubing. I explained how I do holes in chassis tubing above someplace. And sure enough, the ParkLiner has chassis tubing, not channel or angle, so I'm not playing around with that. If nothing else, it would introduce rust!

Frank
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