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06-02-2013, 09:57 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
I think that's a valid point, but I think I'm less reliable than a simple relay, so personally I would rather run the small risk of the relay failing (which I can bypass on the roadside with a pair of pliers) than the large risk that I park the rig for something like a meal stop with the refrigerator on and forget to unplug... or worse, unplug and forget to plug back in when I pull away.
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I understand your point.
However, some of us never use the fridge on 12V, therefore unplugging when stopping for 30 minutes to a couple hours won't matter. Even using the fridge on 12 V it would take 4+ hours to run down the batteries.
So it still seems like a non issue.
If, however, you're still concerned then the relay or solenoid is the way to go.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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06-02-2013, 10:15 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamourpets
Some take the hypothetical situations a little too seriously me thinks.
Seriously though, a swift yank on the brake away switch cable is all it takes.
Derek
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The kids are all on wireless. They don't have a clue.
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06-02-2013, 11:40 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamourpets
Some take the hypothetical situations a little too seriously me thinks.
Seriously though, a swift yank on the brake away switch cable is all it takes.
Derek
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Brake currents
Brake Size Amps/Magnet
7 x 1-1/4 inches 2.5
10 x 1-1/2 inches 2.5
10 x 2-1/4 inches 3.0
12 x 2 inches 3.0
At 2.5 amps for wheel (magnet) that only 5 amps on my trailer.
One should always do a walk around after leaving the trailer for even 15 minutes. Look at the cables, safety chains, the break away switch, etc. It only takes a couple seconds and can save you lots of headaches.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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06-03-2013, 12:00 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: Escape 17 ft
Posts: 8,317
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One should always do a walk around after leaving the trailer for even 15 minutes. Look at the cables, safety chains, the break away switch, etc. It only takes a couple seconds and can save you lots of headaches.[/QUOTE]
Two thumbs up, and more, if I had more thumbs. I do the walk around every time I stop and before I go.
Makes a lot more sense than blaming somebody else. I'm trying to imagine roving bands of teens that know what a break-away switch is, and then making the effort to disconnect it. Half the people on this site either don't have brakes or don't know what a break-away switch is, what it looks like or where it is.
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06-03-2013, 06:28 AM
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#25
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Commercial Member
Name: Kevin
Trailer: 1995 Scamp 13
Pennsylvania
Posts: 260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmw photos
I have been told that Dodge and GM are the only two that leave that wire hot all the time, but I'm not certain on that.
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My 2005 Ram 1500 with a factory tow package does not provide power with the key off. They may have changed at some point, Chrysler engineers live by the motto "If it ain't broke, fix it till it is!". Maybe someday they'll redesign the fenders to stop the "Dodge Rot", likely they'll just sell them pre-rusted like the Volare and Aspen.
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06-03-2013, 06:53 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Derek
Trailer: 1973 boler 13', Earlton On
Ontario
Posts: 396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo
One should always do a walk around after leaving the trailer for even 15 minutes. Look at the cables, safety chains, the break away switch, etc. It only takes a couple seconds and can save you lots of headaches.
Two thumbs up, and more, if I had more thumbs. I do the walk around every time I stop and before I go.
Makes a lot more sense than blaming somebody else. I'm trying to imagine roving bands of teens that know what a break-away switch is, and then making the effort to disconnect it. Half the people on this site either don'
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I took a truck driving course years ago. The instructor warned me to always lock your 5th wheel otherwise kids will pull the pin when you stop at a red light. When the light goes green, you will drive away but your cargo will remain behind. Apparently this is an issue in high crime neighborhoods. Commercial trucking has real problems with cargo theft, and this is an easy way to take over a truck and cargo.
Are people likely to do evil to our trailers and tow vehicles? Likely not, but thinking ahead is a good plan. Its pretty easy for an evil doer to disconnect stuff, even if they really don't know what its for.
Derek
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06-03-2013, 07:03 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Jason
Trailer: Egg Camper
Tennessee
Posts: 329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G.
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Yeah, I tried google search and Amazon. I couldn't find anything that was made for what I wanted to do, nor anything reasonable in price. The harness they sell, in UK for cars, is $30-40 I believe.
Believe me, had I found a simple relay, locally (no need for customs) for the cause I would have jumped all over. I still want that harness but "momma" has the purse string for my crazy projects.
Jason
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06-03-2013, 07:57 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: '98 BURRO 17WB
Delaware
Posts: 2,548
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'05 Yote with factory tow package, 4 pin is hot only with ignition on.
jack
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06-03-2013, 08:16 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita Spirit Deluxe 2003 16 ft
Posts: 1,899
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Not to put too fine a point on it, has anyone run into a source for a replacment breakaway pin in case it "disappears" at a rest stop?
I'm strangely reluctant to pull the pin that came with the Casita, even when at home, to fabricate an emergency spare. I guess I'm thinking that I might have trouble reinserting it although I know I could just disconnect the wiring if I did have trouble.
I expect a wooden dowel of the appropriate diameter (slightly pointed) would do the trick temporarily but eventually I'd want to go back to the proper pin. Without buying a whole new switch. Of course a replacement part might cost as much as a new switch anyhow.
I may just have to put on my "big boy" pants and just yank the durn thing out and see what's what.
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06-03-2013, 08:25 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2001 Spirit Deluxe 17" K5NAN
Texas
Posts: 688
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas G.
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Not exactly pocket change but doable.
__________________
Mike
K5NAN
"Miss Adventures"
If you Rest, You Rust
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06-03-2013, 09:17 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L.
Not to put too fine a point on it, has anyone run into a source for a replacment breakaway pin in case it "disappears" at a rest stop?
I'm strangely reluctant to pull the pin that came with the Casita, even when at home, to fabricate an emergency spare. I guess I'm thinking that I might have trouble reinserting it although I know I could just disconnect the wiring if I did have trouble.
I expect a wooden dowel of the appropriate diameter (slightly pointed) would do the trick temporarily but eventually I'd want to go back to the proper pin. Without buying a whole new switch. Of course a replacement part might cost as much as a new switch anyhow..
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I've pulled mine. It's easier than you think. Also, a pencil might work in an emergency.
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06-03-2013, 09:22 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L.
Not to put too fine a point on it, has anyone run into a source for a replacment breakaway pin in case it "disappears" at a rest stop?
I'm strangely reluctant to pull the pin that came with the Casita, even when at home, to fabricate an emergency spare. I guess I'm thinking that I might have trouble reinserting it although I know I could just disconnect the wiring if I did have trouble.
I expect a wooden dowel of the appropriate diameter (slightly pointed) would do the trick temporarily but eventually I'd want to go back to the proper pin. Without buying a whole new switch. Of course a replacement part might cost as much as a new switch anyhow.
I may just have to put on my "big boy" pants and just yank the durn thing out and see what's what.
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I've yanked mine a few times. I installed it with one wire going directly to the battery. If I needed to I could remove the wire from the battery. Another emergency option is a pair of wire cutters, cut one wire coming out of the switch. It can be spliced back together later.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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06-03-2013, 09:45 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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For a reasonable low voltage battery cut off, good old Princess Auto:
12V Battery Isolator | Princess Auto
$20 when it goes on sale.
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06-03-2013, 12:37 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: Derek
Trailer: 1973 boler 13', Earlton On
Ontario
Posts: 396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L.
Not to put too fine a point on it, has anyone run into a source for a replacment breakaway pin in case it "disappears" at a rest stop?
I'm strangely reluctant to pull the pin that came with the Casita, even when at home, to fabricate an emergency spare. I guess I'm thinking that I might have trouble reinserting it although I know I could just disconnect the wiring if I did have trouble.
I expect a wooden dowel of the appropriate diameter (slightly pointed) would do the trick temporarily but eventually I'd want to go back to the proper pin. Without buying a whole new switch. Of course a replacement part might cost as much as a new switch anyhow.
I may just have to put on my "big boy" pants and just yank the durn thing out and see what's what.
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Its probably smart to pull the thing out to make sure its working properly. If you are unhitching and your trailer tries to roll away on you, its a quick and easy way to bring it to a stop. If you are smart, this won't happen. This is a good trick just in case.
"Coast" is a distributor for many of the smaller RV dealerships. They list a replacement key for the Hoppy/Husky switch in their catalog, but its out of stock.
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06-03-2013, 04:35 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Name: Jason
Trailer: Egg Camper
Tennessee
Posts: 329
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
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Now that is not too bad of a price. I might just keep an eye on it to go on sale. Thanks David!
Jason
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06-03-2013, 04:39 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Name: Derek
Trailer: 1973 boler 13', Earlton On
Ontario
Posts: 396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverGhost
Now that is not too bad of a price. I might just keep an eye on it to go on sale. Thanks David!
Jason
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If I remember correctly, these came up on sale a couple months ago so you may have to wait a little bit.
Derek
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06-03-2013, 05:03 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glamourpets
If I remember correctly, these came up on sale a couple months ago so you may have to wait a little bit.
Derek
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That is when I bought mine.
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06-03-2013, 06:23 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L.
Not to put too fine a point on it, has anyone run into a source for a replacment breakaway pin in case it "disappears" at a rest stop?
... eventually I'd want to go back to the proper pin. Without buying a whole new switch. Of course a replacement part might cost as much as a new switch anyhow.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve L.
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To temporarily disconnect, I just need to take a ring terminal off a stud in an external junction box - no cutting wires. That was my idea, not Boler's.
If I needed a replacement and couldn't wait for the pin, I would just buy the whole switch, use the new pin, and keep the switch as a spare... if a compatible switch were available locally. They're not very expensive.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
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06-08-2013, 11:36 AM
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#40
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Member
Trailer: 87 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 67
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I mounted a simple toggle switch on the battery box to break the charge wire before the battery.
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