Pretty Please no lectures, but.... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-16-2015, 08:55 AM   #15
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Name: Ralph
Trailer: SCAMP 13
Kentucky
Posts: 71
Our SCAMP 13 just hatched on June 8th towed with an 09' Jeep JK two door automatic.
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:01 AM   #16
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Name: Ralph
Trailer: SCAMP 13
Kentucky
Posts: 71
Our new "Towed Abode" on the Mississippi River just south of Nauvoo Il. and at Pere Marquet campground near Alton Illinois... on the way back home from Backus.
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:01 AM   #17
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Name: Ralph
Trailer: SCAMP 13
Kentucky
Posts: 71
Looks like I have some work to do to get theses pics right!
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Old 07-16-2015, 10:02 AM   #18
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Name: kacey
Trailer: Former scamp owner
Wisconsin
Posts: 31
towing note

I won't venture to comment on the tow vehicle, we have a Wrangler and love it lots BUT have a 5th wheel and use the pickup for that..... BUT ..... if you are not afraid of the bells and whistles please consider the load-leveler bars and the anti-sway add on to your hitch, so many people do not bother but it does make your towing more stable, neither add on is a big dollar item. Just something to consider.
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Old 07-16-2015, 10:41 AM   #19
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Name: Fred & Linda
Trailer: Little Joe
Texas
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Towing with SWB Wrangler

We have and love our Little Joe (Weiscraft) which is built primarily for Jeep Wranglers. Look at their website and you will see. The only thing I did is added air bags inside the rear coil springs but use very little air pressure so I think it would have been fine without them. Towing with the short wheelbase is fine as long as common sense prevails. Always keep in mind that the shorter the wheelbase, the easier the jacknife when braking. The Little Joe is exactly the width of our Rubicon making it comfortable with the standard mirrors. Plus I am 6'1" and have plenty headroom standing inside that the Casita does not have.
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Old 07-16-2015, 12:18 PM   #20
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
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Getting the hitch to the height that tows level really matters. Ford Explorer was impossible to control at 62 mph with a Scamp 13 riding nose up. Could just manage to avoid the wiggles at 50 mph. That Explorer is a lot longer and heavier than the Jeep.

Trailer brakes are a wonderful invention. Scamp 13 could really impact our Escape V6 stopping distance without trailer brakes. And best way to avoid or control a jackknife may well be to use the manual lever to brake just the trailer.

Seems to me the Casita sits higher than the Scamp. Trailer weights in the real world page on the forum can help get a real idea of what the trailers you are considering weigh in use.
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Old 07-16-2015, 01:46 PM   #21
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
Posts: 7,300
JUlie,

Emilie's correct. I use the following to lock the ball mount to the hitch, simple and easy to install.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

The locking pin is like this one.
http://www.amazon.com/Trimax-T-3BLAC...er+locking+pin
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Old 07-16-2015, 02:06 PM   #22
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Name: tom
Trailer: shopping
Texas
Posts: 7
Registry
When reading about the Roadmaster quiet hitch, I ran across a mention of a cheaper option at Home Depot. FYI

Superstrut 3-3/16 in. U-Bolt Beam Clamp-ZU501-10 - The Home Depot
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Old 07-16-2015, 03:09 PM   #23
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Name: Floyd
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
IllAnnoy
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A friction anti-sway device will add a level of stability to your tow set-up if added to a properly balanced trailer.
A load leveling hitch would border on silly for a Scamp13.
Short trailers in general do better with short wheelbase tow vehicles.
The best set-ups tend to be proportional, but there is more to a chassis than wheelbase... such as spring rates, turning circle and steering ratio.
I have not driven a Jeep like yours, so there are too many variables to make a definitive comment as to its suitability for any application.

My Escape with a 103" wheelbase is a perfect match for my Scamp13 .
It has proven to be stable and comfortable under all conditions.
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Old 07-16-2015, 03:31 PM   #24
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Name: Norm and Ginny
Trailer: Scamp 16
Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC1 View Post
Norm.... I'm surprised you went that high with the air pressure on your Honda.

I'm sure it worked for you but did you find the tires wore more in the centers???

Our G35 has a listed tire pressure rating of 34lbs all around. When connected I went to 36 in the fronts and 38 in the rears and that is with a 700lb tongue weight trailer using a WDH. Note the WDH added 90lbs to each front tire of the vehicle. 200lbs went back to the trailer tires which left approx 150lbs for each rear tire. Overall well balanced.
Wayne,
If you have to realize i never towed before and really you don't find much comment about air pressure on most trailer sites. I was reading the Can AM site and came across something about increasing tire pressure to improve the stiffness of the side walls to prevent the trailer from causing the side walls to rollover do the trailer side pressure. I can't say 39 pounds was intelligently chosen however I knew the upper limit 44 lbs. We used it for 7 years and noticed no particularly uneven wear. We are tire rotators.

I suspect the Honda CRV was loaded more than the typical CRV. I recall it weighed 4000 lbs loaded (compared to 5000 for the Odyssey).

Regardless, we never had a tire problem. A couple of nail flats over the year.

WHen we drove across Labrador when it was a dirt road, we reduced the pressure giving berth to spikey gravel. Of course our speeds were low,,, you now we're dilly dallers. We often averaged 25 mph across Labrador.

Of course you know we have a heavy tongue to prevent sway (200 lbs)...just kidding. In my towing tips I never mentioned a level trailer. We travel level.

Interestingly your pressures are near to ours...maybe I'm copying you.

Take care Wayne,

Norm
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Old 07-16-2015, 04:58 PM   #25
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Name: Marilyn
Trailer: 13 ft 2005 Scamp Deluxe; 2002 Subaru V6 Outback
Oregon
Posts: 175
Hi, Norm and Ginny;
Could you please give details on items #8 pressure/temp tire sensors, #12 how to measure the tongue weight using bath scale and jack, #22 trailer breakaway switch? I'm unfamiliar with these.

Is an anti-sway bar appropriate for a 13 ft trailer (and will it improve backing up?

And where on earth do I order #15?
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Old 07-16-2015, 06:23 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M Scott View Post
Hi, Norm and Ginny;


Is an anti-sway bar appropriate for a 13 ft trailer (and will it improve backing up?
A friction anti-sway device will increase the stability while traveling forward. Its like a muscular little arm on the trailer reaching out to hold onto the TV to keep it stable. It works on the principle of brakes.
It is not recommended for complex backing up since it makes the trailer less responsive to turning.



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Old 07-16-2015, 06:50 PM   #27
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd View Post
A friction anti-sway device will increase the stability while traveling forward. Its like a muscular little arm on the trailer reaching out to hold onto the TV to keep it straight. It works on the principle of brakes.

It is not recommended for complex backing up since it makes the trailer less responsive to turning.
Just wondering if you have it mounted on one side does it "favor" backing up one way or the other? Does backing toward the anti-sway or away from it make any difference?

Since most people try to back in toward the side they can see best I'm just wondering if that influences which side the arm gets placed on.

And won't the bar release the friction with a flip of the tension lever or does it have to be disconnected to allow free movement before trying to back into a camping spot?

Not a big deal but just wondering. Going down the road in comfort and safety is probably worth a little extra when backing in and dropping the camper.
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Old 07-16-2015, 06:53 PM   #28
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Florida
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It does release with a flip of the tension lever. In our first year I use to release it. Since then we never loosen it backing up. Ours has always been located on the passengers side.
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