Problem with Springs

[Bobbie Mayer]

I hooked up my trailer to take it to AAA today to get the VIN verified again. I thought it was sitting at an angle in the garage but attributed it to the wheel jack being on one side. But hooked to the Forester it was also leaning to the right. So I looked underneath and saw that the metal piece that is shown in the picture below open was closed, so that the thingamjig was flatter against the frame (hard to describe but if it isn't clear I'll get another photo when it settles again.)

I figured I could drive carefully and after a mile or less the trailer was riding level. I checked at AAA and it looked as the picture shows. Yes, everything is pretty rusty but looks solid despite the rust, except I can't tell about this part. It's obviously sticky; I'm not sure how it is supposed to act. What do I need to do?

[Steve L.]

That nearly vertical item is the spring shackle and it should move freely as the trailer is rocked. Sounds like it's bound up a bit. I'd try some oil at the inside and outside of the top and bottom bolts.

I suppose that ideally it would be nice to remove both the bolts and clean them up and reassemble but it might be a bear to get the nuts off the bolt and and bolt out of whatever they're run through. I think a little oil would do it and the pieces will slip more easily as you use the trailer.

[Bobbie Mayer]

That nearly vertical item is the spring shackle and it should move freely as the trailer is rocked. Sounds like it's bound up a bit. I'd try some oil at the inside and outside of the top and bottom bolts.

I suppose that ideally it would be nice to remove both the bolts and clean them up and reassemble but it might be a bear to get the nuts off the bolt and and bolt out of whatever they're run through. I think a little oil would do it and the pieces will slip more easily as you use the trailer.

What kind of oil do I need for that?

Bobbie

[Brian B-P]

The shackle swings to allow the spring end move horizontally as the spring flattens (to compress as the trailer moves down) and regains its curve (when the trailer springs back up and the spring curves more). In the photo the shackle has swung to accommodate the spring flattening, which matches nicely with the observation that the same side of the trailer is low.

Sure, it could be that the pivot at either end of the shackle is binding, and not allowing the spring to pull it back to the normal position. It could also be that the spring is collapsing, and staying flatter under the trailer weight than it should.

If after lubricating and bouncing it appears the suspension moves freely, but settles back to this position, then I would guess the spring is dead. If it reliably comes back to level as it did after driving - and doesn't just stick at level occasionally - it was just a sticky pivot problem and the spring is fine.

Shackle pivot points often have grease fittings, and in that case a gun can be used to add grease without disassembly.

If the spring really is collapsing (probably not in this case), it's time for a new one... and the one on the other side should be replaced at the same time. Fortunately, leaf springs are cheap - a shop will likely charge more for the installation than for the springs themselves.


Bobbie - the description and photo are fine

[Bobbie Mayer]

If the spring really is collapsing (probably not in this case), it's time for a new one... and the one on the other side should be replaced at the same time. Fortunately, leaf springs are cheap - a shop will likely charge more for the installation than for the springs themselves.

I suspect it is really collapsing as it settled as it sat in the garage. (Although then I'm not sure why it springs back up in travel.) I'll try lubrication first, though. What kind of shop do I need if it is the springs?

Bobbie

[John Perry]

I suspect it is really collapsing as it settled as it sat in the garage. (Although then I'm not sure why it springs back up in travel.) I'll try lubrication first, though. What kind of shop do I need if it is the springs?

Bobbie

Buy a spray can of WD-40 at almost any store and spray the heck out of all 4 shackles and that should loosen them up and let your trailer set and stay level.
$1.00 says that it is all you will need!
John

[Donna D.]

What kind of shop do I need if it is the springs? Bobbie

A spring shop Benz Springs .... I guess it would depend if you're looking for a DIY solution or not. You might see if a utility trailer manufacturer in your area would be willing to work on your fiberglass trailer if you want to have the work done. I know an RV place probably would, but they're going to "stick" you too and springs are springs.

[Bobbie Mayer]

Buy a spray can of WD-40 at almost any store and spray the heck out of all 4 shackles and that should loosen them up and let your trailer set and stay level.
$1.00 says that it is all you will need!
John

I have the WD-40 and will try that before anything else.

Bobbie

[John Perry]

I have the WD-40 and will try that before anything else.

Bobbie

I forgot to tell you that WD-40 is a penetrating oil and will need a time to penetrate into the bushings around the bolts on the shackles so don't give up if it does not work instantly.
John

[Brian B-P]

What kind of shop do I need if it is the springs?

I agree with Donna - this is a spring thing, not an RV thing. I would try, in order

1. truck and trailer suspension businesses (such as Standen's, who supplied the original springs and axle for my Boler; this type of business often has "spring" in its name, such as our local City Spring)
2. trailer manufacturing and repair businesses (have common trailer springs in stock and recognize what is needed)
3. any random garage
4. RV shop

Okay, that's not fair to the RV shops...

What I would prefer to do personally is pick up new springs and bolt them in myself. They could come from a spring shop, or some types of automotive and industrial suppliers (such as Princess Auto in Canada).

With any luck, it's just sticky shackle pivots.

[DanPatWork]

I agree with Donna - this is a spring thing, not an RV thing. I would try, in order

1. truck and trailer suspension businesses (such as Standen's, who supplied the original springs and axle for my Boler; this type of business often has "spring" in its name, such as our local City Spring)
2. trailer manufacturing and repair businesses (have common trailer springs in stock and recognize what is needed)
3. any random garage
4. RV shop

Okay, that's not fair to the RV shops...

What I would prefer to do personally is pick up new springs and bolt them in myself. They could come from a spring shop, or some types of automotive and industrial suppliers (such as Princess Auto in Canada).

With any luck, it's just sticky shackle pivots.

I agree completely here with the bolt them in myself. Cheaper is always better. Another possibility for a spring supplier in the U.S. would be a farm & fleet, or a Tractor supply. Measure the length of the spring from eye to eye while suspension is unloaded, as well as from the eye that is in the fixed position, to the center bolt of the leaf. Buy the springs to build the leaf pack, 2 grade 8 bolts and nuts, and new spring u-bolts with nuts. It sounds like allot but the satisfaction of not having paid for the labor can be worth the price of the parts.

One word of caution, "RUST", find the best penetrating oil you can, soak, wait, soak, and then breaker bars, for those of you who don't have access to the "Blue Wrench" (Oxy-Acetylene)

[Bobbie Mayer]

I agree completely here with the bolt them in myself. Cheaper is always better.

If it comes to that, I'm having someone do it. I'm willing to make repairs that don't render it impossible to tow the trailer to someone else to fix the problem I caused. Other than that, no thanks. But I found a vendor and servicer of leaf springs in town so I'll call them if I decide it needs doing.

Bobbie

[Gerry]

What kind of oil do I need for that?

Bobbie

A product call PB Blaster is about the best penetrating oil I have used to loosen stuck parts.
Gerry the canoebuilder

[Bobbie Mayer]

A product call PB Blaster is about the best penetrating oil I have used to loosen stuck parts.
Gerry the canoebuilder

Is that short for Peanut Butter Blaster? lol.

I'll look for it in case the WD-40 doesn't work.

Bobbie

[Joe Z]

Bobbie.....
All of the above recommendations may work but just for the heck of it look under the trailer dead center at the axle where the spring meets and look to see if there is a crack in the main leaf spring (the one that's hooked to the shackle in your picture)it may have cracked and moved out some to let that shackle come back like that. ( I replaced many springs in Semi's and this sometimes happens) check that main spring (top leaf) from front to rear as the wear on the side of that shackle just doesn't look right
If it has cracked and you need to replace springs do both sides or one side could sag more than the other and create a big problem when going around a bend in the road.......
Sure hope the wd 40 thing helps
Joe

[Donna D.]

You might get the shackles to free up with some sort of penetrating oil, but dollars to donuts the bushings are long gone.

Here's a quote from an automotive spring company:

In leaf spring type suspensions, there are significant forces focused on the pivot points and shackles. For this reason, it is imperative to replace the soft, blown-out OEM rubber bushings. Why not replace them with a set of these Prothane leaf spring and shackle bushings? They're made of premium grade polyurethane and precision fabricated for a perfect fit. Plus, they won't wear out or deteriorate like the stock set. Who could ask for more?

[Pete Dumbleton]

Donna's correct -- Likely the original bushings were relatively thin nylon sleeves and have worn away to nothing. Where the metal is touching other metal, you now have grinding. All this is making slop in the motion and that slop is potentially getting to the tires and affecting their contact angles with the road.

Were it my trailer, I would renew the shackles, bushings and bolts, plus take a careful look at the springs leaves themselves (many are built with nylon rubbing shims between them), and I would likely use the bushings Donna mentioned. However, unless there is distinct wear on the tires, you could oil them occasionally and go a long time. BTW, WD-40 is a water-displacing penetrating oil, but not really much of a lubricant, so after using it to loosen stuf, it should be followed up with some grease or lube oil.

Most leaf-spring nuts/bolts that I have seen have special locking threads on them that are essentially destroyed when disassembled, so bear that in mind. Also inspect the hardware holding the axle beam to the springs in the center of them.

Note that Dexter warrants new torsion axles for five years but only warrants new leaf spring axles for one year.