I have a Prodigy something & pull a handful of different trailers (7x14 double axle
cargo, 16' tilting deck flatbed rated at 15k lbs), although our newly acquired Boler
doesn't have brakes. Each time I hitch up, I recalibrate it. Get up to 30mph or so, then hit the lever to fully engage the trailer brakes. The trailer brakes should bring the trailer & vehicle to a reasonably quick stop, after a while you learn how fast it should be. To start out with keep bumping up the voltage until you lock up the trailer tires
, then bump the voltage down to a little below lockup voltage. That gives you optimal stopping power without messing up your tires
You really need to redo the procedure every time you change trailers, or change the load in/on your trailer as that affects traction & stopping power. After your first few times & get a feel for your trailers maximum stopping power, it takes 30-60 seconds to do & is just generally a good safety check. I consider it as important as checking the brake lights
& turn signals when you hitch up.
Fiddle around with various voltages & you'll find out what works very quickly. 6v is as good as any to start with. Due to various levels of wear, different sized disks, disks vs. drums, etc. there is no way to give a good answer as to what you'll need for voltage.
If you can't get the brakes to lock up, the grease seals on the back of the wheel bearings might have been blown out & greased your brake pads. Or the small brakes on the small trailer just aren't up to the task (probably not the end of the world given the light weight
of the tailers when the tug should be able to stop most of the weight
on it's own).
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