Pulling with a jeep? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-22-2013, 07:17 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevebaz View Post
I think the real question was social who tows with a Jeep? not how good does you Jeep tow you trailer...
I agree that it was to some extent a social thing - we're in General Chat - but the actual original question included:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace57 View Post
How well dose it work for you?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The 4 door version did not start until later like 2008
Yes, the 2007 model year, with the introduction of the "JK" generation.
__________________

__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 08:59 AM   #30
Senior Member
 
Night Sailor's Avatar
 
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 963
Send a message via Skype™ to Night Sailor
Quote:
Originally Posted by ihwild View Post
I've been in a Tahoe that had an unloaded Uhaul trailer (small one) come unhitched. It hit the rear of the truck while trying to brake to get it off the road. Safety chains held but it still pushed that truck a bit and the driver definitely had to react with steering to keep it under control. Course being surge brakes the trailer brakes never engaged since it came unhitched.

Rich
There is a good argument for both a weight distributing hitch and electric brakes.
__________________

__________________
Night Sailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 09:02 AM   #31
Senior Member
 
Night Sailor's Avatar
 
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 963
Send a message via Skype™ to Night Sailor
Quote:
Originally Posted by Michel, Bouchard View Post
Changed our tow vehicule for a 2012 Jeep Wangler JK, 2drs, V6 3.6L with manual 6 speeds, 3,73 gear ratio. Towing my '73 Boler with it.

It is a really great combo, this handles with charm. The average we got with it over 1000 miles up to now is around 17.5 mpg at 60-65 mph. Going for a 4000 miles trip with it in the next 2 weeks.
Looks like a great Combo. Sized right and when you get where you are going you have a great off road toy to play with and explore. I imagine you can get to camp sites where others fear to go.
__________________
Night Sailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 04:40 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by ihwild View Post
I've been in a Tahoe that had an unloaded Uhaul trailer (small one) come unhitched.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Sailor View Post
There is a good argument for both a weight distributing hitch and electric brakes.
I have heard this theory before, that adding a WD system will make the trailer safer by holding the coupler on the ball. Yes, a conventional (not Andersen No-Sway) WD system does push the coupler down on the ball with great force. It seems to me that if the coupler is properly latched the trailer doesn't come unhitched, so rather than adding more hardware that further complicates the hitching process and increases the chance that something is missed, why not just keep it simple and use the equipment properly?

Rental trailers inherently involve the danger of an inexperienced driver using unfamiliar equipment which is not properly matched to the tug, guided by a rental business employee who neither knows anything about towing nor communicates anything to the driver. This situation probably has something to do with U-Haul trailers coming unhitched... and nothing about it would be improved by adding a WD system into the mix. There are good reasons that no U-Haul rental equipment uses WD.

Surge brakes have breakaway systems, equivalent in function to the breakaway switch of an electric brake system. I'm not very concerned about having brake control in the rare case that the trailer comes unhitched so that the surge action doesn't work, yet is still so closely attached (by the safety chains) that the breakaway system is not tripped and the electrical cable is still attached and functioning.

Also, if the trailer is held up by the safety chains and runs up against the tug with the coupler, the coupler will be pushed and the surge brake system will be activated to some extent.

Now, what does any of this have to do with pulling with a Jeep?
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 05:09 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Night Sailor's Avatar
 
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 963
Send a message via Skype™ to Night Sailor
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post

I have heard this theory before, that adding a WD system will make the trailer safer by holding the coupler on the ball. Yes, a conventional (not Andersen No-Sway) WD system does push the coupler down on the ball with great force. It seems to me that if the coupler is properly latched the trailer doesn't come unhitched, so rather than adding more hardware that further complicates the hitching process and increases the chance that something is missed, why not just keep it simple and use the equipment properly?

Rental trailers inherently involve the danger of an inexperienced driver using unfamiliar equipment which is not properly matched to the tug, guided by a rental business employee who neither knows anything about towing nor communicates anything to the driver. This situation probably has something to do with U-Haul trailers coming unhitched... and nothing about it would be improved by adding a WD system into the mix. There are good reasons that no U-Haul rental equipment uses WD.

Surge brakes have breakaway systems, equivalent in function to the breakaway switch of an electric brake system. I'm not very concerned about having brake control in the rare case that the trailer comes unhitched so that the surge action doesn't work, yet is still so closely attached (by the safety chains) that the breakaway system is not tripped and the electrical cable is still attached and functioning.

Also, if the trailer is held up by the safety chains and runs up against the tug with the coupler, the coupler will be pushed and the surge brake system will be activated to some extent.

Now, what does any of this have to do with pulling with a Jeep?
I'll answer the last question first. Someone mention that short wheel base tugs are more subject to dangerous side force in the event of couple separation. I agreed and this is why I like WD hitches (and I'll be more specific and exclude Anderson WD hitches).

Personally I don't trust the typical couplers. They seem weak and untrustworthy to me. I removed one recently--two years ago and installed a Bulldog coupler which goes on a bit easier and is more comforting. On other trailers I've replaced couplers with the original type to avoid headaches matching components. In these cases the couplers were worn out.

Back to Short wheelbase Jeep's which I interpret to mean 2 door Wranglers. I like that they have a solid frame and the short wheel base makes the very maneuverable with a tow-- forwards or backing up. A Wrangler with an Egg can go places few other campers could go.

The danger towing is such a configuration would, most would agree, be more dangerous towing because of the short wheelbase--for the same reason these are so maneuverable.

Could you do without WD? Probably with an Egg in tow. Electric brakes...it would be wise to have them. I know people who have towed cross country several times with 7,000 lb dual axles w/o brakes--installed but not working. I think the driver was foolish, but then he never went faster than 50 - 55 the whole way.

So yes you could tow without WD or electric brakes of you are a smart cautious driver. Or you could go with the overkill approach with your hitch and coupler. It comes down to personal choice in the end.

I think a Wrangker with an egg in tow is an awesome combination.
__________________
Night Sailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 08:02 PM   #34
Member
 
Rpryor3's Avatar
 
Name: Raymond
Trailer: 1970 Trails West Campster
California
Posts: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by David B. View Post
For 23 yrs now I have pulled a Scamp 13' standard layout with front bunk/couch, with our '97 TJ Wrangler. It had a 4" Lift and 35" tires with 4:11 gears and standard transmission. It pulled well except I would have to down shift to 3rd on mountain passes, and only got 10-11 mpg. I now pull a 13' Scamp with wood interior, with our 2007 JK Rubicon, with 5:38 gears and 37" tires, and automatic. No real difference noticed between the 4.0 I-6 and the 3.8 V-6 in the way it tows or the mpg. The Scamps never had any sway and both had trailer brakes.
Nice Jeep!
__________________
Rpryor3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2013, 06:28 PM   #35
Senior Member
 
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
Quote:
Originally Posted by RRIZZO View Post
We tow with a Jeep Grand Cherokee 4X4 and have had no trouble. My Jeep suffers from the "DEATH WOBBLE" and its very strange that while pulling our trailer I have never experienced that problem. Google "Jeep Death Wobble" for explanation. Can also happen to Ford Excursions.
Rosemary,
Sometimes the wobble comes from lifting the Jeep's suspension, which reduces castor angle. You have a choice to optimize the front drive shaft angle or optimize the castor angle. The only way to optimize both is to cut the axle tubes, twist to the new angle and re-weld. I chose to optimize the driveshaft angle. I have not experienced any wobble with 33" tires. Larger tires seem to help wobble. Poorly worn tires of any size can cause wobble though. Your trailer probably squats the jeep in the rear which increases castor angle, helping with wobble control.
Russ
__________________
ruscal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2013, 05:31 PM   #36
Member
 
Name: Don
Trailer: '79 Boler 1700RGH
British Columbia
Posts: 67
I pull my 17foot boler with my 98 Cherokee. It's lifted 6 inches with a long arm suspension, two lockers, offroad bumpers and rock sliders..
4.10 gears - when wheeling I roll 34inch tires, when pulling Boler and daily driving I have 31s on it.

I don't get the greatest fuel economy but it's not much different then running without a Boler attached.

I've had no problems with braking or power, however I used to roll with no swaybar - that was down right scary when pulling Boler.. I ended up getting a bigger grand cherokee swaybar and some quick disconnects for when i'm wheeling.

Pic is with a 10 inch drop hitch, before I replaced my boler axle with a straight axle (no drop knuckle)
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20120506_113438 (Medium).jpg   EastHarrison_NewMeats (42).jpg  

__________________
Boleroleroleroleroleroleroler
Kinslayer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2013, 09:38 AM   #37
Junior Member
 
Name: Drew
Trailer: Love Bug
Alabama
Posts: 16
I am pulling my Love Bug with a 94 wrangler all stock. I have to drop a gear on steep climbs and milage drops. Also in excese of 70 mph it gets a little squirelly when another vehicle passes so I keep it at 65 or less. No brakes on bug but I do keep a close eye on jeep brakes.
__________________
Paw_Paw_Drew is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2013, 05:03 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
Okay, I get the point that short-wheelbase vehicles (such as some Jeeps) are marginal for towing (in configuration, not mechanically) so extra care should be taken with the hitching system. Good point. ... although I don't think the trailer becoming unhitched should be an acceptable operating event with any tug!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Sailor View Post
Electric brakes...it would be wise to have them. I know people who have towed cross country several times with 7,000 lb dual axles w/o brakes--installed but not working. I think the driver was foolish...
It seems like my post might have been interpreted as suggesting that brakes were not valuable - not at all! I was just saying that the advantage in the particular case quoted of electric brakes over surge brakes didn't seem very significant to me. Electric, surge, whatever - yes, have working trailer brakes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Sailor View Post
Personally I don't trust the typical couplers. They seem weak and untrustworthy to me. I removed one recently--two years ago and installed a Bulldog coupler which goes on a bit easier and is more comforting. On other trailers I've replaced couplers with the original type to avoid headaches matching components. In these cases the couplers were worn out.
While some couplers are definitely minimum-cost components, in all of the discussions in this forum and others I have never heard of a story of a undamaged coupler which was simply latched properly letting go of the ball. Yes, one member had one with a major missing part which would disengage when forced enough (!), and others have stories of "I don't know why but the trailer uncoupled", but I just don't see a problem to be fixed... especially with one of the more fundamentally sound designs, such as the Atwood yoke-type that is common on Bolers and some other eggs, or that forged Bulldog that I find awkward to use but is certainly substantially constructed.

There are exceptions, of course: I would rip one of those multi-ball-size handwheel things that U-Hauls uses off of anything that I owned. Would I leave that undesirable coupler on, then add a WD system to pin it down to the ball? No, with any vehicle.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2013, 12:56 AM   #39
Senior Member
 
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
I would like to do something better than the stock coupler on our Scamp. I was rattling, so I tightened the bolt that holds the yoke until the play was gone. It still had enough working clearance for turning. I thought I was done, until I tried to uncouple the trailer. I wouldn't clear the yoke. I had to back off the adjustment several turns to get it to clear. This tells me there is a design problem with the system, or the yoke is bent or worn. I purchased a kit with a new yoke and bolt and spring, but it was not compatible. They must be brand specific even if they look to be the same. I may just cut the whole coupler off and replace it. Modifing the yoke would work, but I would be open to liability in the event of failure.
Russ
__________________
ruscal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-06-2013, 03:17 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
Brian B-P's Avatar
 
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Alberta
Posts: 5,000
This isn't really about Jeeps at all...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ruscal View Post
I would like to do something better than the stock coupler on our Scamp. I was rattling, so I tightened the bolt that holds the yoke until the play was gone. It still had enough working clearance for turning. I thought I was done, until I tried to uncouple the trailer. I wouldn't clear the yoke. I had to back off the adjustment several turns to get it to clear.
...
I purchased a kit with a new yoke and bolt and spring...
Russ, do you really mean "yoke"? I've never seen a yoke-type coupler with an adjustment of any kind, and the only spring is a minor part of the latch; yoke replacement kits are available, but they still don't add adjustment. It sounds like you are describing a rebuild kit for a common coupler with a lever that pulls a latch up against a spring... the wrong one of those certainly could fail to work properly.
__________________
1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
Information is good. Lack of information is not so good, but misinformation is much worse. Check facts, and apply common sense liberally.
STATUS: No longer active in forum.
Brian B-P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 02:33 AM   #41
Senior Member
 
Name: Russ
Trailer: Scamp 16' side dinette, Airstream Safari 19'
California
Posts: 588
Brian,
Yes, not about Jeeps at all. I just read the above comment regarding trailers uncoupling and commented. Sorry for the hijack.

My mention of a "yoke" was describing a part within my coupler. I checked out your links to the Yoke type coupler. Mine is not a yoke type which has the wrap around design. The part I dubbed yoke is the Y shaped plate that grabs the underside of the ball. It seems that when it is sufficiently tightened to eliminate rattle it should still release from the ball when the lever is flipped up. Mine does not do that, so it will get the dumpster. The length of the forked end of the yoke is probably too long and could be trimmed back, but I don't think I'll go there.
Russ

PS My Jeep tows the Scamp pretty well. Now we're back on subject.
__________________
ruscal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-07-2013, 06:34 PM   #42
Senior Member
 
Jared J's Avatar
 
Name: Jared
Trailer: 1984 19' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 1,610
Quote:
Originally Posted by ruscal View Post
It seems that when it is sufficiently tightened to eliminate rattle it should still release from the ball when the lever is flipped up. Mine does not do that, so it will get the dumpster. The length of the forked end of the yoke is probably too long and could be trimmed back, but I don't think I'll go there.
Russ
Bull dog coupler
__________________

__________________
Jared J is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Pulling Over when Going Slowly fusedlight General Chat 24 05-06-2012 07:58 AM
Is anyone pulling FB with a Jeep Laura June Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 27 11-07-2011 04:41 PM
Pulling Power Mary Ann in MN General Chat 18 04-19-2011 09:24 PM
My lifted Jeep pulling my Scamp 16 BenB General Chat 5 06-23-2009 08:21 AM
Pulling Doubles ronsmith100 General Chat 19 02-03-2008 12:28 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:43 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.