Pulling with a jeep?

[ruscal]

Brian,
Yes, not about Jeeps at all. I just read the above comment regarding trailers uncoupling and commented. Sorry for the hijack.

My mention of a "yoke" was describing a part within my coupler. I checked out your links to the Yoke type coupler. Mine is not a yoke type which has the wrap around design. The part I dubbed yoke is the Y shaped plate that grabs the underside of the ball. It seems that when it is sufficiently tightened to eliminate rattle it should still release from the ball when the lever is flipped up. Mine does not do that, so it will get the dumpster. The length of the forked end of the yoke is probably too long and could be trimmed back, but I don't think I'll go there.
Russ

PS My Jeep tows the Scamp pretty well. Now we're back on subject.

[Jared J]

Originally Posted by ruscal

It seems that when it is sufficiently tightened to eliminate rattle it should still release from the ball when the lever is flipped up. Mine does not do that, so it will get the dumpster. The length of the forked end of the yoke is probably too long and could be trimmed back, but I don't think I'll go there.
Russ

Bull dog coupler

[Brian B-P]

Since the coupler topic won't die - and is interesting - a couple more comments:

Originally Posted by ruscal

Mine is not a yoke type which has the wrap around design. The part I dubbed yoke is the Y shaped plate that grabs the underside of the ball. It seems that when it is sufficiently tightened to eliminate rattle it should still release from the ball when the lever is flipped up. Mine does not do that, so it will get the dumpster. The length of the forked end of the yoke is probably too long and could be trimmed back, but I don't think I'll go there.

I would go with something like "jaw" for that part, to avoid confusion with a yoke, but I get the point. Yes, it should release if adjusted for zero play; it does seem like the wrong part, or just junk. I wouldn't modify it, either.

Originally Posted by Jared J

Bull dog coupler

When people mention a "Bulldog coupler", they usually seem to be referring to the forged Collar-Lok coupler design; the Bulldog brand is also applied to various other designs.

Another design which traps the ball between two substantial jaws is Lippert's Quick-Bite... but I have no experience with either.

There are a lot of coupler designs, beyond the basic generic type with the spring-loaded lever-actuated jaw behind the ball.

[Jared J]

yeah, I meant the forged/cast style. Thanks for the link on that quick bite, I need to replace the one on my car trailer, it's wearing the top thin. That quick bite looks damn promising. I've seen similar on goosenecks, nice that somebody brought that to market.

[Hman66]

Excuse my being new here...I just ordered a 13 ft Scamp...due early Nov. I have a 2013 jeep wrangler Sport with the tow pkg. it has the 4 pin plug. I was going to go up to Camping World to have it changed to a 7 pin and get the electric brake controller box, as I got the electric brakes. Now....not having a clue on this subject, do you all think I should go to jeep for this? Any suggestions on what I should get. I watched a video where he installed it on the lower dash under the ignition key...thoughts for a newbie?

[Jared J]

Camping world would probably have more experience than the dealer, really.

For controllers, I won't touch anything other than the tekonsha prodigy (believe it's the p3 now). They cost money, but they operate so smoothly.

Another little tip I'll throw out. As long as you're getting one put in, they make the 7 pin connectors for the vehicle with a 4 flat on the side. I would go for one of them, good chance anything else you'll put behind a jeep is 4 flat. You can put an adapter in, but that's just one more thing to go wrong (actually, my adapter was built upside down, I had to take it apart and flip the guts 180 inside after filing a tab off...yay).

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FSZp7AodYVcA-Q

[Hman66]

Thanks Jared. I think Scamp recommends a tekonsha and it had a number like 93-- ill check that out. I just want to get the best one for my situation and know the best spot people like to put it, prior to drilling holes in my lower dash.

[glennco]

On my 07 wrangler, I put the controller effectively right over where my throttle leg is. Angle isn't an issue on the tekonsha controllers, so it's facing up at me. I'll take a quick snapshot of it tomorrow

[Hman66]

Thanks Paul...I would appreciate it. I traded in my 2000 Wrangler and got this one and am a little cautious about drilling holes.

[Hman66]

I got the tow pkg but need the ball etc...any advice here would be great as well. Do I need any kind of sway bars or will it tow fine as is?

[Jared J]

IMHO, a short wheelbase Jeep is one of the few vehicles I think I would put sway control on.

As for the ball, it should be 2" with a new one. Look on the coupler, it'll be stamped in it. When you get the ball, there are different shank sizes, if you already have a drawbar, get a ball that will fit the hole in it.

[Hman66]

At Camping World too while I'm getting the controller? Expected cost?

[Darrell in Al]

Hman66
I'm running a few days late but Jeep has plug and play wiring so you don't have to cut/ splice... at least for TJs. I gut mine from Dealership or Quadratec. Quadratec is/ has SME if it has to deal with Jeeps.
I don't know about CJs or JKs I'm more knowledgeable on XJs, MJs and TJs been owner of these 1991 on (3 XJs, 2 MJs) 05LJ. On the subject of death wobble I might be a SME... I've had, have it in my 90 XJ there is many reasons for it.. bushings, tierod ends, lockers, Ackerman angles, toe alignment caster, camber, bent axle and brake pads/calipers problem. . just seen that one one a stock 06 LJ last week no lift street tires My 90 XJs lifted 6-8in(?), locked front axle, 4:56 geared with over 256000 miles on it.