Question for Scamp 16 owners towing with Subaru - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-09-2014, 01:41 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
I put a class III hitch on my 2012 Forester. Wiring the brake controller was challenging. Brakes are a must over 1000 lbs. Be aware, aftermarket hitches attach differently than the oem. The vehicle has adequate power to tow my 13' Trillium (1700 lbs) but was nowhere near the comfort level my truck provides. I'm not sure how the 4 speed automatic will behave as I have a manual. Good luck, Raz
Good point about the difficulties sometimes encountered when wiring a brake controller. One option is to use a wireless controller such as the one made by Tekonsha (Prodigy RF). I use this same controller and it was pretty simple to install and use, and has been super reliable over the past two years since I began using it.
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Old 09-10-2014, 12:30 AM   #16
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After towing a 4x8 trailer with my 2011 legacy, I knew I would never put even a 13' camper behind it. Dropping down three gears on a few hills in wind made that quite clear, JMO.

The titan pulls the 5'er up the same hill and kicks down only one gear, only 1/4 of the time.

Yeah, mileage is almost 10 less than the subaru, but the comfort factor of setting cruise control and relaxing, is more than worth it to me. I was shifting that subaru as much as I do driving through town. YMMV




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Old 09-10-2014, 12:55 AM   #17
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Why fool around, get a hitch rated at the anticipated load plus an additional safety margin.

Better to be safe than sorry. I use a class 3 hitch on my Rav 4 with a load equalizer hitch and a sway bar. I travel at the speed of the rest of the traffic. I have no sway and a smooth ride. Things stay in place in the trailer also.
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Old 09-10-2014, 08:32 AM   #18
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Towing Speed

Quote:
Originally Posted by frankcfx View Post
Why fool around, get a hitch rated at the anticipated load plus an additional safety margin.

Better to be safe than sorry. I use a class 3 hitch on my Rav 4 with a load equalizer hitch and a sway bar. I travel at the speed of the rest of the traffic. I have no sway and a smooth ride. Things stay in place in the trailer also.
Errr... Isn't towing speed in CA 55 MPH? That's a lot slower than most traffic I encounter.
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:48 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by frankcfx View Post
Why fool around, get a hitch rated at the anticipated load plus an additional safety margin.

Better to be safe than sorry. I use a class 3 hitch on my Rav 4 with a load equalizer hitch and a sway bar. I travel at the speed of the rest of the traffic. I have no sway and a smooth ride. Things stay in place in the trailer also.
One reason not to put a Class III hitch on it and just stick with a Class II which is rated for far more than the car is rated to tow is that you will have a hard time finding an aftermarket hitch that uses the same reinforced mounting holes that Subaru puts on the cars at the factory. There are more hitch manufactures making the Class II for it than Class III - which I suspect is due to the fact that the Class III is an over kill for the vehicle. I personally wouldn't put a hitch on it that required the installer to drill different holes - we have seen here over the years that those are more likely to fail than a factory reinforced mounting hole.

I also agree with Jared - having pulled a 16' Scamp with an Outback for a number of years I would advise those starting out to stick to a 13' trailer as it is far better suited to it. The only reason I did tow with a 16' was due to having a brand new Outback at the time and having gone out looked for the lightest 16' I could find - unfortunately Frederick's Trailer Weights in the Real World wasn't around and I believed what some claimed here there 16' weighed loaded up. When I discovered what the trailer really weighed loaded I couldn't afford to take the hit on selling a car that only had a few thousand miles on it. If I had owned an older vehicle I probable wouldn't have spent the money to have a hitch and brake line installed and put it towards a different vehicle instead with a higher tongue weight limit than the Subaru's 200lbs which is a bigger issue when pulling a 16' than some want to believe.

Edit: Forgot to mention if you read the manual for the Subaru they do not recommend the use of an Equalizer hitch - when I spoke to several folks at Subaru as to the reason for that it was indicated to me that they are concerned with the handling of the vehicle when using an Equalizer hitch as the load weight shift it does, may have a negative impact under certain driving conditions on the all wheel drive system that Subaru uses.
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:53 AM   #20
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Check with U-haul regarding installing a class 3 hitch. All of the hitches I've installed bolted to factory mounting holes.
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Old 09-10-2014, 11:05 AM   #21
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Check with U-haul regarding installing a class 3 hitch. All of the hitches I've installed bolted to factory mounting holes.
U-Haul can and will mount hitches that do not use the factory mounting holes. They use hitches made by other well known manufactures.

They installed two different Class II hitches on my Subaru and the first one used the factory mounting holes - but during the last install they were about to put one on that did not use the factory mounting holes and only stopped the process as I happened to be standing there and asking why the hitch design was so different from the last one installed and how it was to be mounted. I had to bring the car back another day as they had to order the one in that used the factory mounting holes.
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Old 09-10-2014, 09:37 PM   #22
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I have a hidden hitch, class 3, uses the factory holes.

As another basis for comparison, I got stuck in 40+ mph winds pulling the 4x8 flatbed with 3 kayaks and a bike on it with the subaru. It was not a good feeling at all.

Yesterday, I pulled the fifth wheel home in a 50 mph side wind, and it wasn't half as bad as it was with the subaru. It wasn't fun, and it was definitely noticeable, but it wasn't a white knuckle ride.


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Old 09-10-2014, 10:06 PM   #23
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That's it.
I'm done.
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Old 09-11-2014, 04:21 AM   #24
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You are right Bob, Ca is 55 mph but you know full well that no CHP is going to stop you at 65 on the large freeways when all the other traffic is doing 70-80, semi's included. If you are on a road with no traffic, well maybe. In Ca if it's raining or wet they won't stop you unless your crazy because it's to dangerous for them to be stopped on the side of the road with a stop. Not looking for an argument, I've got a number of law enforcment in the family and am only passing on their thoughts for traffic stops. I try to stay at 55 - 65 only because that's where I feel comfortable towing and that depends on the traffic I'm in.
I remember traveling through Montana way back, no trailer and no speed limit. The road conditions kept my speed to around 75. If I'd been towing I think I would have been doing 55 or less.
Sorry for getting off the subject but things are not just black and white with towing.
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Old 09-11-2014, 08:54 AM   #25
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I drive and tow on all of the major freeways in California and I always set my speedometer on 55 (conditions allowing) and keep it there. And there is never a shortage of semi's that keep me company.

Yes, there are a few cowboys (usually independent truckers), that will push their semi's as high as 75-80 when they think no one is looking, but the majority are right there with me at 55-57 mph. WHY? 1) 10 MPH over is an expensive ticket and 2) Points on a CDL are even more expensive when one can't drive. I see CHP's pulling semi's over almost every day, and I'm fairly sure it's not for a coffee break. The "Shooting Gallery", southbound I-15, north of Escondido, is a good place to see this on a daily basis.

And when I drive anywhere, there's always a former law enforcement officer in my vehicle who's advice I follow.
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Old 09-17-2014, 07:16 AM   #26
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On the Forester the oem hitch attaches to the bumper studs with support straps. These straps are placed inside of and attach to tubes that run under the cargo area.
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Old 09-17-2014, 07:19 AM   #27
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The after market class III hitch attaches with carriage bolts to holes in the same tubes. Neither oem nor after market seems all that robust to me. I doubt the Outback is much different. Raz


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Old 09-17-2014, 11:00 AM   #28
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It would be hard to compare an after market Class III hitch for the Forester to an OEM class III hitch as Subaru doesnt offer a Class III hitch with a 6000lb tow rating - if ones on a Subaru Forester or Outback its an after market hitch.

Its important to note that some vehicle manufactures in recent years have gone away from using the hitch class rating system for their OEM hitches and taken to using the European system where the hitch is rated only to the towing rate of the vehicle it was designed to be installed on. When I purchased my Nissan Truck it had the full factory towing package on it - so my question was, is it a Class III or a Class IV hitch on it? When the service department looked up the vin to confirm it was an OEM hitch & not an aftermarket install, they said it is rated to tow the same as the trucks tow rating only and that Nissan was using the European system of rating on their OEM hitch now. Period. I asked Nissan Canada the same question got the same answer. It is my understanding in talking with a service rep at Subaru that they are doing the same now as well.

Here are some photos of the 2013 Outbacks OEM hitch being installed. As you can see its a very different design from the photos of the install
on a Forester. The photos btw came from one of Subaru's top sales guys who is located in Seattle - I have purchased a couple of my Subaru's from him.

There are a few after market class II hitches out there for the Outback that are designed the same as the OEM hitch and as such use the same factory attachment points but as I mentioned there are also some out there being sold for the vehicle but they clearly do not use the same attachment points and require some additional holes to be drilled into the vehicle - which I would avoid.

I personally have no idea as to what attachment points a Class III after market hitch for the Outback looks like as I felt that as the Class II was rated to carry far more than what the vehicle was rated to tow, a Class III would have been a serious over kill. As the Forester has an even lower tow rating than the Outback I would suggested that based on having pulled with the Class II over six years & thousands of miles that a Class II would do just fine on the Forester as well, assuming the OP is going to stay within his vehicles towing specs.
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