Raising a Compact II - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-21-2013, 01:51 AM   #29
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Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
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Originally Posted by SouthwestOregon201 View Post
Here's a note to several of you considering the straight axle. You really only need to mount one pair of spring perches. The springs have a bolt through the center of each leaf. You can mount the axle on the top or bottom and place the 'U' bolts up or down depending on how you like the axle.
I think this means to literally flip the axle - rotate it about its axis half a turn. This is fine (with a straight axle) as long as it is truly straight; however, axles routinely have a slight but deliberate bend upward in the middle (or are cambered about one degree positive each side by welding the spindles on at that slight angle) so that when loaded they are straight, rather than sagging and negatively cambered.
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:09 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson View Post
Actually, the original Compact Jr. axle is a square solid bar. The hole is drilled completely through the bar, providing the location for the spring pack's bolt on both sides.
I suppose I should have said "tube or bar"... but a solid bar (square or round) for an axle is bizarre. In a quick Google search for "square tube trailer axles" I found that small square axles are typically 2" square (as Tim mentioned) with 3/16" walls for up to 2500 pound capacity and with 1/4" walls for 3500 pound capacity. Solid square bar is about twice as heavy (an extra 30+ kg or 70+ lb) and likely twice as expensive as this heavy-wall tubing for little gain in bending strength. With straight axles, the spindles (which are solid) usually just slide into the tube, easily making a very sound connection in a way that can't be done with a solid bar axle (although I realize that this doesn't apply to the dropped axle).
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:38 PM   #31
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Trailer: 1979 Scamp 16 Delux
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I got busy and built the axle for my Compact II. It's hard to get any painting done this time of year in Oregon.
I measured the old axle, from the center of the spindle to the fiberglass top of the wheel well and compared it to the new axle measurement. I found that the straight axle is now 3 inches lower than the drop axle.
The new wheels and tires will be ordered tomorrow, but I did get some measurements from the dealer. There will be a 1/2" heighth addition from putting 14" wheels on, I will also gain 1" more heighth from the new tires.
Overall, that will raise the original height of the trailer by 4 1/2".
After I finish with mounting the wheels on and replacing the pop-top, after the material gets replaced, I'll check the overall heighth to see if it will still fit in a standard garage door opening.
Here are a couple pictures of the new axle installed, with new bearings, dust seal, spindles, springs, U-bolts, etc.
Attached Thumbnails
straight axle1.JPG   straight axle2.JPG  

straight axle3.JPG  
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:11 PM   #32
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Here's a look at the new tires and wheels mounted to the trailer. The top of the trailer will be just over 7', without the pop-top back on. I'll get the final clearance heighth when everything is assembled. My goal was to push the trailer up alittle to look better on my 2012 Tacoma, but not too high so that someone could still get it into their garage.
Attached Thumbnails
new wheels2.JPG   new wheels3.JPG  

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Old 03-03-2013, 12:20 AM   #33
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I like it! Now you can take it off roading without worry of bottoming out.

deryk
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:14 PM   #34
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Trailer: 1974 Hunter Compact 2
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Hi everyone, im looking into the same style set up, I have adopted 12 miles of trail in the sequoia national forest and need hight for sure. this seems to be a good idea to what im looking for. very clean set up! One question I is the stock axles 1"? I have 4 lug now but own 5 lug 1" hubs, I wonder if they would work..
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Old 03-28-2013, 12:51 AM   #35
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Hi Jason,
This set up wasn't too difficult to finish. I went to a metal fabrication place and purchased all the parts. The spindles were 1", so the axle had a slightly larger inside diameter. The hubs were 5 on 4 1/2", I think the same as a ford wheel pattern. The original was the same, so now I have two spare tires.

I measured the top of the flange for the pop top down to the floor and I'm still just under 84". My single car garage doors will open to 85". I'm only thinking about the next owner because I store the trailer in the shop with 10 foot doors.

I'm happy with the look of the 14" wheels. I remember years ago, having a flatbed trailer with 8" wheels and measuring the roll distance (circumference) against my '87 Toyota wheels. When I drove at 60 miles an hour, those little tires were spinning three times faster.
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:31 PM   #36
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Trailer: 1974 Hunter Compact 2
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Thanks Dave for the reply, Did you use your stock spindles and just cut them off the stock axle and weld them in the tube? I have three 14" wheels from another trailer I have also. I pretty good at fabricating stuff my own stuff , seems simple and to the point.
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:42 PM   #37
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Jason, I wanted all new material. Forty year old bearings and springs were not for me. I kept the original axle in case someone wanted to put the original axle and wheels back on, so they could fit the trailer in a standard garage.

The old axle was a square, solid, unit and probably would be fine with a sandblasting and fresh paint.

Dave Heffner
Oregon
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Old 03-31-2013, 10:15 PM   #38
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Thanks for the info Dave, If I wanted a wider rim what offset would you say I should get?
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