RAV4 people: why is my hitch only 4 inches off the ground? - Page 15 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-06-2013, 02:46 PM   #197
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i do like to "hitch and go"...i have hand arthritis and also i cant walk well so need a TV i can really trust.

i'm really new tho and dont know all the terms etc...it would be better if deryk or jon or the others who followed this with ravs answer you...

the casita 17 deluxe seems to be heavier than most campers here-esp the TW - so i guess it is a combo of the car and the camper and me being a newbie and not as strong as i used to be
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:03 PM   #198
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From what I've read hooking up the wdh might be a bit much for her so she is going to try her Tacoma with out it....also comfort factor with the truck vs the Rav4
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:22 PM   #199
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it does seem kinda wierd tho that the toyota rav manual says dont use a wdh and the etrailer salesman could look up which wdh is right for the rav

i didnt know the manual said that until it was posted on here
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:28 PM   #200
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It depends on the year of the RAV4. My 2010 Sport model manual has no "don't use a WDH" statement.

I believe the problem is with the tongue weight limit of the RAV4. It is 350 lbs, and the Casita 17's are generally well over that.
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:34 PM   #201
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Ah, ok. Makes sense now.

BTW, Deryk how is yours towing with the airbags? Besides the sway in the cross winds.

I tend to take the push and shove from a high profile vehicle in windy conditions in stride as just "part of the ride". Maybe it is just too many miles/years towing other large and odd shaped vehicles that I'm use to it. With the wife driving every once and a while I may have to revisit the idea of WDH or anti-sway bar for our setup.

Sorry to hi jack the thread, but I have learned a lot in these discussions. Thank you all

Jason
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:51 PM   #202
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Well Jason I picked up a wdh and anti sway bar and am liking it. My tongue weight is a lot less then a Casita 17 so I'm not stressing the Rav4 suspension as bad. The airbags are ok...a bit annoying to fill. I have thought about adding that green too I've seen at Walmart for bike tires and rough calculate the volume and mostly fill it...of course they won't ever come out of the coil spring....has anyone done something like that?
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:00 PM   #203
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As for the RAV4 manual and WDH, it says a WDHitch is not recommended. It doesn't say not to use one. And, throughout the manual, when they are stressing the importance of something, it is highlighted in yellow. The "not recommended" is not highlighted.
And, beside the point, my Hidden Hitch for the RAV4 is rated for 400 lb. tongue weight. I'm sticking with 350 as per the RAV manual. I talked to a tech at Hidden Hitch before the install, which was done at my Toyota dealer prior to taking delivery of the vehicle.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:05 PM   #204
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sorry for saying that wrong glenn.

but you guys it is casita that says the tongue weight of the casita fd 17 is 365-that isnt a whole lot over 350 and i did take off the propane tanks and took the chairs and table out

but i have noticed in learning all this stuff when rv dealers, car dealers and places like etrailer talk about tow weight and empty weight and gross weight they dont always use the same terms or definitions

so it can be really confusing...both for newbies like me and for rv repairers and car salesmen
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:50 PM   #205
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No sorry necessary. I just wanted to clarify what the manual actually says.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:58 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
As for the RAV4 manual and WDH, it says a WDHitch is not recommended. It doesn't say not to use one. And, throughout the manual, when they are stressing the importance of something, it is highlighted in yellow. The "not recommended" is not highlighted.
And, beside the point, my Hidden Hitch for the RAV4 is rated for 400 lb. tongue weight. I'm sticking with 350 as per the RAV manual. I talked to a tech at Hidden Hitch before the install, which was done at my Toyota dealer prior to taking delivery of the vehicle.
Have to agree - My current hitch is labeled 400 lbs as well. I could put a class 5 hitch on my RAV4 that is rated at 1200 lbs, but the RAV4 is still only 350 lbs.
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:22 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deryk View Post
Well Jason I picked up a wdh and anti sway bar and am liking it. My tongue weight is a lot less then a Casita 17 so I'm not stressing the Rav4 suspension as bad. The airbags are ok...a bit annoying to fill. I have thought about adding that green too I've seen at Walmart for bike tires and rough calculate the volume and mostly fill it...of course they won't ever come out of the coil spring....has anyone done something like that?
I don't know about the green slime stuff. Fluids not being compressible may not work so well in the airbags. Also most of the slime/fix a flat type remedies require movement to distribute the sealant correctly. You'd have to put the RAV4 in a rotisserie to get the sealer to coat the system

When installing the airbags (and possibly taking them out) warm them with a hair dryer, use a vacuum pump to suck them flat, and use a liberal amount of soapy water. They slip right in, relatively, easily.

Seriously though I put a pair of airlift airbags from Summit Racing and they hold 5PSI for months. It's just enough to hold the bags' shape. I haven't kept too close a watch on them while towing, but the car doesn't sag noticeably during the couple times I pulled the camper. The average amount of time I have it hitched up is 5 days. That includes pulling it out a day before and prep, then an extra day after, cleaning and putting it back.

With the cheaper air lines and fittings you do have to be....very picky (being PC here!)....during assembly. Installation is not the time to be in a rush or cheap with the installer. On the up and up I also worked at a trailer shop doing DOT inspections and air brake repairs. An extra 1/2 hour now saves a driver hours of down time later.

If I start towing a lot more I'll invest in the automatic system with a compressor to keep the bags at a set pressure or suspension at a set level. Until then the old, simple way will do. And I'll keep an eye out for a sway control bar.

Jason
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:44 PM   #208
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Derek, just throw a bicycle pump in the under floor storage area. On mine 30 strokes = 40 psi. It's faster than fooling around with a 12v air compressor, cheaper to buy and smaller and lighter to store.

Also, I don't let the air out when I'm going to be towing again soon. Doesn't seem to ride much different with the bags inflated vs empty.

Denny
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Old 05-06-2013, 06:48 PM   #209
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Are airbags something that putting nitrogen vs air in might work better?

I own new airbags for my nissan pathfinder sv pulling a scamp 16. There appears to be, so far, no reason at all to install the airbags... but since I own them and since the pathfinder forum I sometimes visit recommends using airbags for a "better, smoother ride" for any towing, I may go ahead and install them if they're not high maintenance.

Sharon
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:42 PM   #210
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Originally Posted by SharonM View Post
Are airbags something that putting nitrogen vs air in might work better?

I own new airbags for my nissan pathfinder sv pulling a scamp 16. There appears to be, so far, no reason at all to install the airbags... but since I own them and since the pathfinder forum I sometimes visit recommends using airbags for a "better, smoother ride" for any towing, I may go ahead and install them if they're not high maintenance.

Sharon
See http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/shou...-nitrogen.html for Edmunds' analysis of nitrogen in tires. Short answer: a waste of money.
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