removable hitch ball - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-16-2009, 11:11 AM   #15
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Draw-Tite came through and free of charge sent me one of these:

http://www.etrailer.com/pc-BMAIII~63201.htm
That looks good, but I don't have the secondary hole in my hitch (just their receiver).

Tom, I like your recycling shim. Do you just fold/layer the plastic, then use duct tape to keep it together?
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:47 PM   #16
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It's no big deal to drill the second hole.
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Old 04-17-2009, 12:37 AM   #17
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We recently bought a 2003 Odyssey. This is the first time we have towed with a vehicle with a removable hitch ball. We towed the Scamp for the first time last weekend & were suprised at the loud "clunk" sound when the ball mount shifts up & down or from side to side within the receiver. Is this normal? Can the amount of "play" be reduced?
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The first thing I would check is that the pin holding the hitch into the receiver is of the correct size and rating. Big slop potential there. The second is the ball size and lubrication of same. Using a shim in the manner suggested sounds a bit insane. Your insurance company will not know you if you have any sort of accident. That is a proven given. A properly fitted ball and receiver do not clunk. Jim Garvin
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Old 04-17-2009, 01:20 PM   #18
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The first thing I would check is that the pin holding the hitch into the receiver is of the correct size and rating. Big slop potential there. The second is the ball size and lubrication of same. Using a shim in the manner suggested sounds a bit insane. Your insurance company will not know you if you have any sort of accident. That is a proven given. A properly fitted ball and receiver do not clunk. Jim Garvin
I beg to differ with you, when I pulled with the Tundra no clunk, now with our Odyssey it clunks, same ball, same trailer, even the same lockable pin, at first I blamed it on the fact that now I use a WDH and a friction antisway bar but the stinger is a lot looser in the hitch on the Ody and maybe the anti sway does force it to clunk from side to side. I'm not particularly bothered by that as I've been towing for over 50 years but for new owners it could be a concern. I see no problem with shimming the loosness out from side to side and putting a shim on the top side of the stinger it would have no weight bearing on the rig at all. if it falls out your in no worse shape than you were when you started.
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Old 04-17-2009, 02:09 PM   #19
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Just to be clear, the shimming would be in *addition* to the pin, not replacing the pin. And it goes between the ball mount and the receiver hole, not around the ball in the coupler.

Why on earth would an insurance company care if you shimmed a loose-fitting ball mount? A tiny amount of normal play in that area can make for a lot of noise because it is transmitted directly to the frame.
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Old 04-17-2009, 04:40 PM   #20
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Ours was clunking so I put a strip of furry Velcro tape on the top side of the end of the ball mount. It provides a cushion between the ball mount and the receiver, and no more clunking!
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:05 PM   #21
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We may have some parts mislabeling here in this thread.

Hitch -- The part that bolts to your tow vehicle.

Receiver -- That part of the hitch into which the ball mount is inserted, with a square hole usually 1 1/4" or 2".

Ball Mount -- aka Stinger; the bar on which the ball is mounted, the other end of which goes into the receiver.

Hitch Pin -- A pin, which may or may not have a lock, which goes through the ball mount and receiver to secure the mount in the receiver.

Ball -- The ball on a shaft which is bolted onto the ball mount.

Coupler -- The device on the trailer frame, bolted or welded, which clamps on the ball and is usually adjustable for a relatively tight fit (Look on the underside for the adjustment nut).

The rattle we are concerned about here is between the ball mount, the receiver and the hitch pin, which do not always have a tight fit (If the fit was too tight, the components would be stuck together from corrosion).



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Old 04-18-2009, 10:09 AM   #22
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Greetings!
I had a very pronounced "clunk" when I first started towing with my new class III. I checked for the right size ball, made sure that the hitch insert and receiver were both 2" - OK there, but I found that the lock pin hole was 5/8" diameter and the pin I had was only 1/2" diameter. Another trip to the hitch shop and this was rectified.
My wiring system also grounds through the ball and it eliminated the flickering I was getting on bumps also.
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:57 PM   #23
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Hitch ball grounding isn't enough; you should consider grounding both connectors to the TV and TT frames -- In fact, I take the ground wire all the way up to the negative post on the battery to ensure good battery charging in the trailer.

Under the right circumstances, you can have the running lights, brake lights, battery recharge, fridge and brakes full on at the same time with all the ground/returns trying t o share that potentially weak ground connection. Things may be blinking as you go down the road.
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