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Old 04-17-2009, 07:05 PM   #21
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We may have some parts mislabeling here in this thread.

Hitch -- The part that bolts to your tow vehicle.

Receiver -- That part of the hitch into which the ball mount is inserted, with a square hole usually 1 1/4" or 2".

Ball Mount -- aka Stinger; the bar on which the ball is mounted, the other end of which goes into the receiver.

Hitch Pin -- A pin, which may or may not have a lock, which goes through the ball mount and receiver to secure the mount in the receiver.

Ball -- The ball on a shaft which is bolted onto the ball mount.

Coupler -- The device on the trailer frame, bolted or welded, which clamps on the ball and is usually adjustable for a relatively tight fit (Look on the underside for the adjustment nut).

The rattle we are concerned about here is between the ball mount, the receiver and the hitch pin, which do not always have a tight fit (If the fit was too tight, the components would be stuck together from corrosion).



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Old 04-18-2009, 09:09 AM   #22
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I had a very pronounced "clunk" when I first started towing with my new class III. I checked for the right size ball, made sure that the hitch insert and receiver were both 2" - OK there, but I found that the lock pin hole was 5/8" diameter and the pin I had was only 1/2" diameter. Another trip to the hitch shop and this was rectified.
My wiring system also grounds through the ball and it eliminated the flickering I was getting on bumps also.
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Old 04-18-2009, 08:57 PM   #23
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Hitch ball grounding isn't enough; you should consider grounding both connectors to the TV and TT frames -- In fact, I take the ground wire all the way up to the negative post on the battery to ensure good battery charging in the trailer.

Under the right circumstances, you can have the running lights, brake lights, battery recharge, fridge and brakes full on at the same time with all the ground/returns trying t o share that potentially weak ground connection. Things may be blinking as you go down the road.
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