Removal of Old Brake Assembly - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-27-2016, 10:49 AM   #15
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Name: bob
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Originally Posted by fieldphoto View Post
Ok, I am liking this idea more... but just to clarify... it sounds like I will have to basically take apart the brake assembly (which is fine because it is going in the trash) to expose the top of the 4 bolts. Take the levers, springs, pads etc off... so that I can get to the top of the bolts, then try turning them, and/or cutting them of from the front.
Am I understanding correctly?
You won't be able to turn the bolts from the brake shoe side because they have a round smooth head, nothing to grip on. Too big of a bolt to cut with a chisel, and that way may also bend something. However, if you start off with a small drill bit, drill in to the head of the bolt at it's center at least the thickness of the head, work your way up to a little bigger drill bit until you are at or slightly over the stud size, then you should be able to pop the head off with a chisel if it hasn't fallen off by now. Then get the backing plate off and deal with getting the rest of the bolt out. Grinder is quicker and easier though
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:47 AM   #16
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Good advice from Bob. Drilling is tedious but safe. New drill bits might make the job easier. Just don't damage the axle flange. I don't think you will but it's good to keep it in the back of your mind.
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Old 09-27-2016, 12:39 PM   #17
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I second the dremel tool idea. Also, you can buy MAPP gas in small bottles and use them to get those nuts cherry red. I'd start with MAPP gas.

Best of luck to ya!

Frank
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Old 09-27-2016, 01:10 PM   #18
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Name: Steve
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You don't have to drill the head off. Drill a 1/4 inch hole into the stud from either end to get below the nut then the stud will be thin enough to twist the nut and snap the stud.
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:27 AM   #19
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Name: Steve
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here's a thought

Take it to a trailer shop and just let them put a new axle, rotors, bearings and brakes. It would probably be less than $700!
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:03 AM   #20
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Name: Ginny
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Oklahoma
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Steve,
after just replacing the timing belt (for the 2nd time, long story) on my tow vehicle, along with a motor mount, there is no way I am putting $700 into axle right now. It functions just fine, the other brake side works great... just gotta get these darn bolts/nuts off and we will be golden.
Also, we just repacked all the bearings... so, those are in great shape too.
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Old 09-28-2016, 03:24 PM   #21
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Understand. I was kinda kidding! Maybe a quick stop by a welding shop could get the bolts off for you.
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Old 09-28-2016, 03:28 PM   #22
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hey $700 is no joking matter for me right now, wallet is still recovering from car repair. :P

here is my question to you, and to the group. It seems to me that based on the construction of the brake and hub assembly, and how the wheels attach to axle, that this brake assembly (and the plate welded to the axle that the bolts are attached to) are part of the structure of the wheel.

I have severely damaged one of the bolts/nuts- so at this point I do not feel it would be safe to put the wheel back on and drive it somewhere. I figured once I started hacking at the bolts/nuts I had committed to not moving the trailer.

am I wrong in this assumption?
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Old 09-28-2016, 04:01 PM   #23
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Name: Jack L
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The axle spindle and hub assembly and retaining nut are what holds the wheel on your trailer. Not the brake assembly. The only risk to putting everything back together would be the UNLIKELY event that something in the brake assembly came free and damaged the drum and hub while you were towing. If something in the brake assembly did come loose it would make considerable noise.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:59 AM   #24
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Name: Ginny
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Jack, thank you.
I see, though the drum assembly fits in front of/over the brakes, it is the large nut on the axle (that goes on last) that really holds the drum on. Because the wheel lug nuts then attach to this drum assembly, and it is secure- then it doesnt matter what is going on with the brakes.

Thank you for helping me visualize that.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:27 PM   #25
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Name: Wil
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More thoughts

I ran into the same problem. Changed one side and thought the other side was good. Then the other side went down the drain.

I had one nut on one side and two on the other that would not budge. After soaking them with WD40 and penetrating oil I put a wrench on them and hit with a hammer. Eventually the teeth on the pressed in end stripped and the bolts just turned in the backing plate.

Final solution was a nut splitter and cold chisel. Real PITA. Also took all the internal brake parts off the backing plate before final attack.

If (when) I had (have) to do again I think I would (will) try the drilling out from the backing plate side - before stripping the bolts in the backing plates.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:32 PM   #26
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Had the same problem when I changed my axle. Wanted to reuse the old parts on axle.
Five of the eight bolts spun when I broke them loose.
Ended up using the sawsall, make sure you have a new long blade.
I was able to cuts some off from the front and a few had to be cut off from the back.
Bought new hex head bolts, lock washers and nuts.
The blade won't be very straight when your done but, it worked great.
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Old 10-01-2016, 07:28 PM   #27
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Name: Ginny
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THE BRAKE IS OFF!!!! WOoohoooooO!!!!
It took cutting off the bolt heads with a small dremmel cutting wheel (sawzall or something larger would have too big to get into such a small space).
Then we beat the remaining bolt plug with an awl and sledgehammer.


NOW.
I tested the electrical wire coming from the left brake before I even took the old brake off. I was getting a solid reading.
Now? of course... nothing. I can hear the left brake clicking on, but there is nothing on the right side. So, I cut the wire and tested again, nothing. Par for the course on this project, which is 'if it can go wrong it will'... lol.

So, either there is power and I am not using the volt meter correctly (very possible, but I think it is right! besides, there isnt the 'clicking' noise)

Or, I mysteriously have a disconnect issue now. Any suggestions on how to chase down the problem between the two sides?

Am I correct in that I should be able to activate the brake assembly before putting everything back together anyways?

Thank you all for your continued support in this project! I will be excited to move on to other issues.
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Old 10-02-2016, 10:09 AM   #28
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FYI, I reposted my last question in a new thread, since it is really a separate issue.
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