Repeat mirror image assembly with parts for other side.
First QC test: are there any leftover parts? No? Good enough.
Next QC test: check the wiring/magnets for conductivity. Should be the same on both sides. This is close enough, 4.4/4.3 ohms. 3% variance seems acceptable. From this we can calculate the amp load the brakes
draw at full power.
4.3/2=2.15ohms total resistance.
14V/2.15= 6.5A max current, or 3.25A per brake.
I thought the OEM 16ga wire to the brakes
was small, but 3.25 is well below the 11A capacity of 16ga.
We've checked out the drums and know they are 7.256" on a 7-1/4" nominal size. How will we know if the drums are worn out if there is no service literature anymore? How about reading the face of the drum I've been looking at for a month. doh!
Max Diameter is 7.310 and they are currently 7.255/7.256. Plenty of wear left in the drums.
Also, if I had looked at the drums more closely I would have noticed they are marked HD 7.25 right on front.
Nothing left to do now but reinstall. Hang the backing plates on the trailer axle
& tighten the 4 nuts & lockwashers. Reconnect wires, adding some convo tubing where wire passes through the axle
bracket. Be sure to use the Ox-gard grease for these crimps that will be very exposed to road splash.
Slide the drum in place, grease the outer bearing, shove it in w/ the D-washer & install nut & cotter key. Whack the new Bearing Buddies
in place. (they are replacing the chi-comm dust caps from Vatozone that keep falling off.) Finally, install the freshly blasted & painted wheel with the blasted & painted lug bolts. Tork to 90 ft/lbs, according to stamping right on bolt heads.
One last step, adjust up the adjusters until it is hard to spin the wheel, then back off until they are just barely dragging.
Alright, let's go Scamping! In the mountains! With no fear of steep downgrades!