Replacing Brake Assemblies - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-11-2011, 09:17 PM   #1
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Replacing Brake Assemblies

Ive been having issues with my brakes; one side would lock up and the other side wouldn't. So I decided to pull the drums and investigate. I expected to take everythign apart, clean and lube all pivot points and everything would work better.

When I got the drums off, one of the brake shoe linings had partly separated from the brake shoe, so I thought it best to replace the brake shoes.

When I got to the parts store, the counter guy knew exactly what I was looking for and said that a complete backing plate is slightly cheaper then just brake shoes. So I went home with two complete backing plates.

The problem has turned out to be removing the old backing plates. 10 years of rust hasn't completely seized the nuts holding the backing plates to the flanges. With a lot of work I have one backing plate removed. The second one is a huge hassle.

The nuts will loosen a few turns, and then the whole stud turns in the backing plate. I've drilled one of the heads off, and mostly broken the head off.

What I'm hoping at this point is a nut splitter will work to remove the nuts from the studs. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

-- Dan Meyer
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Old 05-12-2011, 01:22 AM   #2
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The ideal way would be to heat the nut with a oxy/acly torch. (sp)
Not having one of those try a butane torch. ( takes a lot longer )
The idea is to expand the nut faster than the bolt.

Bill K


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Meyer View Post
Ive been having issues with my brakes; one side would lock up and the other side wouldn't. So I decided to pull the drums and investigate. I expected to take everythign apart, clean and lube all pivot points and everything would work better.

When I got the drums off, one of the brake shoe linings had partly separated from the brake shoe, so I thought it best to replace the brake shoes.

When I got to the parts store, the counter guy knew exactly what I was looking for and said that a complete backing plate is slightly cheaper then just brake shoes. So I went home with two complete backing plates.

The problem has turned out to be removing the old backing plates. 10 years of rust hasn't completely seized the nuts holding the backing plates to the flanges. With a lot of work I have one backing plate removed. The second one is a huge hassle.

The nuts will loosen a few turns, and then the whole stud turns in the backing plate. I've drilled one of the heads off, and mostly broken the head off.

What I'm hoping at this point is a nut splitter will work to remove the nuts from the studs. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

-- Dan Meyer
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:09 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Dan Meyer View Post
Ive been having issues with my brakes; one side would lock up and the other side wouldn't. So I decided to pull the drums and investigate. I expected to take everythign apart, clean and lube all pivot points and everything would work better.

When I got the drums off, one of the brake shoe linings had partly separated from the brake shoe, so I thought it best to replace the brake shoes.

When I got to the parts store, the counter guy knew exactly what I was looking for and said that a complete backing plate is slightly cheaper then just brake shoes. So I went home with two complete backing plates.

The problem has turned out to be removing the old backing plates. 10 years of rust hasn't completely seized the nuts holding the backing plates to the flanges. With a lot of work I have one backing plate removed. The second one is a huge hassle.

The nuts will loosen a few turns, and then the whole stud turns in the backing plate. I've drilled one of the heads off, and mostly broken the head off.

What I'm hoping at this point is a nut splitter will work to remove the nuts from the studs. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

-- Dan Meyer
I had the same problem last year when I changed all four on my Bigfoot.Drilling the head off then knocking the stud through,leaving the nuts on worked for me.As you say it is cheaper to buy a complete back plate than buy the parts.I also put on new drums.
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:19 PM   #4
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Done!

I tried a nut splitter on the nuts, and that didn't work as easily as I had hoped. I also tried an air chisel, and that didn't work very well either. The combination of these two tools, plus a vise grip to grab the head of the stud and prevent it from turning, got three of the four nuts off. The last nut needed to be cut off with a Dremel tool and cut off wheel.

Whew!

-- Dan Meyer
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Old 05-12-2011, 09:45 PM   #5
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Dan;
I haven't seen your name in some time. It's good to hear from you again!
I want to take this opportunity to express my gratitude for your contribution to the understanding and enjoyment of Scamps.
You helped me wile away the months while anxiously awaiting the build and delivery of my 2004 Scamp 13.
Your work from that era is still used as a valuable resource for Scamp owners new and old.
beyond Scamp i have enjoyed your material on trains as well.
All the best to you and yours!
Regards;Floyd
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:13 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Meyer View Post
Ive been having issues with my brakes; one side would lock up and the other side wouldn't. So I decided to pull the drums and investigate. I expected to take everythign apart, clean and lube all pivot points and everything would work better.

When I got the drums off, one of the brake shoe linings had partly separated from the brake shoe, so I thought it best to replace the brake shoes.

When I got to the parts store, the counter guy knew exactly what I was looking for and said that a complete backing plate is slightly cheaper then just brake shoes. So I went home with two complete backing plates.

The problem has turned out to be removing the old backing plates. 10 years of rust hasn't completely seized the nuts holding the backing plates to the flanges. With a lot of work I have one backing plate removed. The second one is a huge hassle.

The nuts will loosen a few turns, and then the whole stud turns in the backing plate. I've drilled one of the heads off, and mostly broken the head off.

What I'm hoping at this point is a nut splitter will work to remove the nuts from the studs. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks!

-- Dan Meyer
I have replaced brakes on several Eggs. The fastest way I have found to solve you problem is just to grind the nuts off with a grinder.

The best place to buy your brake asy. is NorthernTool.com.
They have everyting you need, are fast and great to deal with if you order the wrong item.

John
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Old 05-16-2011, 08:55 PM   #7
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Epilog

Just a quick note to say the new brakes work very well. Initally, they didn't have much pull when full on, but you could feel they were working. Having broken them in now for almost 400 miles they are working very nicely.

-- Dan Meyer
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