Safe weight limits in mountains

[floyd]

Originally Posted by BCDave

Depends on what you use it for other than towing your RV.

My daily driver, grocery getter, run-around as needed AND tow & haul stuff & carry people AND tow my RV vehicle is a one ton, extended cab longbox pickup.

To be precise, it is a 2006 Silverado 3500 Duramax and that is the `right size` vehicle for me.

It handles better and gets better fuel economy than my old Toyota 4Runner rides nicer, and drives like a dream. Parking isn`t an issue (I just run over the little cars!) (Joking!)

Condolences(joking) While it is the "right size" for you, nobody needs one to tow a "small molded fiberglass trailer". Probably a smaller Isuzu would do the trick.

[KevinScamps]

I towed a 16' scamp to Moab and back with my four cylinder Rav4. Vehicle stability and stopping was not the issue. I have a transmission cooler, so my transmission was relatively happy, but I really cooked my enginer because it was working very hard 4,000 rpm for much of the steep parts of I70 = not good. I will never do that to my car. I downshifted to a 13' scamp. Car still works hard, but I am not afraid for it anymore. Take away. The less you tow the better, also scamps tow like a dream even in high crosswinds.

[Mike Magee]

Originally Posted by KevinScamps

I towed a 16' scamp to Moab and back with my four cylinder Rav4. Vehicle stability and stopping was not the issue. I have a transmission cooler, so my transmission was relatively happy, but I really cooked my enginer because it was working very hard 4,000 rpm for much of the steep parts of I70 = not good. I will never do that to my car. I downshifted to a 13' scamp. Car still works hard, but I am not afraid for it anymore. Take away. The less you tow the better, also scamps tow like a dream even in high crosswinds.

Redline is probably something over 5000 rpm, right? If so, running at 4000 rpm (even all day) should do the engine no harm. It is noisy at that level, though.

[BCDave]

Originally Posted by floyd

Condolences(joking) While it is the "right size" for you, nobody needs one to tow a "small molded fiberglass trailer". Probably a smaller Isuzu would do the trick.

If I had a small light-weight F/G trailer, I might agree. my egg is a Bigfoot 21 footer with a GVW approaching 7,000 lb.

There are many members on here who have "larger" (non-small) F/G eggs

The point is - you have to (at a minimum) match the tug to the egg.

Yes, for a 13 footer (regardless of egg brand) , an Isuzu, a li'l Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, Ranger. S10 etc will do nicely as will a host of other tugs. Also for a 14, most 15's and some 16's & 17's. By the time you get into SOME 17's, most 19's etc, you may be able to do it with a smaller tug, but the RIGHT-size one will likely be bigger.

I suspect that a "normal" half ton would pull my Bigfoot sans any issues , but my "diseasel" gets such great economy and that's the size truck those engines come in.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by BCDave

If I had a small light-weight F/G trailer, I might agree. my egg is a Bigfoot 21 footer with a GVW approaching 7,000 lb.

There are many members on here who have "larger" (non-small) F/G eggs

The point is - you have to (at a minimum) match the tug to the egg.

Yes, for a 13 footer (regardless of egg brand) , an Isuzu, a li'l Toyota, Nissan, Mazda, Ranger. S10 etc will do nicely as will a host of other tugs. Also for a 14, most 15's and some 16's & 17's. By the time you get into SOME 17's, most 19's etc, you may be able to do it with a smaller tug, but the RIGHT-size one will likely be bigger.

I suspect that a "normal" half ton would pull my Bigfoot sans any issues , but my "diseasel" gets such great economy and that's the size truck those engines come in.

We are obviously on the same page. You have made my point once again... you have to match the tug to the egg.
It's hard for me to understand why some folks here seem to infer that my comments were against larger tugs for larger trailers.In fact it advocates that.
I am, however saying that tug overkill generally defeats the purpose of buying a "small molded fiberglass trailer",which was to make RVing available for those who did not want and otherwise had no need for an oversized vehicle.
My advocacy for "right sized" Tow Vehicles is in response to those who consistently think that an oversized vehicle is the only solution to safe and enjoyable towing. You don't need a sledge to drive a tack.
I would not own a travel trailer if it meant being saddled with the unpleasant prospect of owning, driving, or maintaining an oversized truck,especially a "diseasel", so the 13 Scamp provides me with an otherwise inaccessible undertaking.
I have a friend who owns an F-350 diesel dually to pull his (40ft?)fifthwheel travel trailer, The truck and the trailer are each beautiful and make-up a "rightsized" combination, but if I had to keep it, I would not trade him even-up.
I love the 21 Bigfoot, it is commodious, and well made, but it represents to me an unacceptable seachange in travel style.

BTW;The Isuzu comment was a good natured dig at the DuraMax.

[DMAC1]

There is more to consider than just weight, so many people get really focused on the weight of the trailer and although it is a important component there are other factors, some trailers just tow nicer than others, heres an example, a friend of mine has a enclosed car trailer that when we have it loaded with 4 snowmobiles and go to the mountains in bc for the weekend is just under 7000 lbs, this trailer tows beautifully behind my chevrolet 3/4 ton truck, infact it tows way nicer than my old stick trailer which was 4200 lbs loaded. i kno wit is not always posible but when it is i would strongly recomend a trial run before buying any trailer, especialy if it is going to be anywhere close to capacity of the tow vehicle.

[MC1]

Originally Posted by DMAC1

There is more to consider than just weight, so many people get really focused on the weight of the trailer

So true. I think folks focus on weight because it is easy and tangible.

What is far more complicated is trying to determine what the vehicle is really safely capable of, how to select the correct connection hardware, and how to set it correctly. You need professionals to do that and most folks can't be bothered.

Sooooo they do some basic calculations based on weight/numbers, hitch it up and head out on the road. They assume the numbers have made it all work. Many find out it isn't that easy.