Safety wiring your nuts…. - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-19-2014, 01:30 PM   #15
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As they say you learn something new everyday, Thanks Darwin for sharing that!

Off to buy a few spare split lock washers as I do carry a different sized balls in the tug in the event I need to tow a family or friends trailer with a different ball size than mine.
Mount this puppy one time and you're done! Once the shaft is on (and torqued), the various ball sizes go on like a hat. Five seconds and done, no wrenches required. Link

Best thing since sliced bread- I have a two-ball set for my 1-1/4 bar and the Ford has the three ball set.
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Old 02-19-2014, 06:37 PM   #16
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Francesca has the rite idea. I also have one of those and use it's every year because I have trailers with different sizes. I think it is well worth the price.
I think I got mine from Tractor Supply. Just shop around B 4 U buy.
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Old 02-19-2014, 06:59 PM   #17
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I like the item Francesca is using as well. If I was starting from scratch and if I was having to change the balls often (currently only do it less than once a year) it sure would be a prize to have.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:06 PM   #18
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What keeps the ball in place on that switch ball setup. My problem is I need different drop height on the ball mount depending which tow vehicle and which trailer. I've accumulated several different ball mounts with different balls, so like Carol I'm not going to start over. Interesting idea though.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:18 PM   #19
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low brow solution

Some folks will reject this solution but...it will work! After the nut is torqued, take a heavy punch and a heavy hammer and wack the thread closest to the nut. Maybe even do it in two places. A spot weld will also work!
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Old 02-19-2014, 08:16 PM   #20
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What keeps the ball in place on that switch ball setup. .
The sets we have are actually from U-haul and look more like the set below.
That permanently attached sticky-outie pin pushes in through a hole on the shank, locking the ball on or rempving it, as the case may be.

The Curt setup illustrated earlier's different- it twists on/off and advertises itself as "pinless". Link
I've never owned/used one of the Curts, so can't say what the hole's for in the side of the ball if there's no pin...
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Old 02-19-2014, 08:20 PM   #21
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Some folks will reject this solution but...it will work! After the nut is torqued, take a heavy punch and a heavy hammer and wack the thread closest to the nut. Maybe even do it in two places. A spot weld will also work!
This was common practice when I worked at GE as a maintenance machinist. We generally used a prick punch. The old time machinists I worked with did things in a unique way.
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Old 02-19-2014, 08:26 PM   #22
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I too need different drop heights and ball sizes. Could be over worrying, but I don't think I could trust a ball like that with a 2 5/16" head on it pulling 14,000 lbs.

But, if you always used the same drop height for your ball mount, and pulled a couple different lightweight trailers, then that multi-headed ball might just be the thing.
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Old 02-19-2014, 08:51 PM   #23
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I too need different drop heights and ball sizes. Could be over worrying, but I don't think I could trust a ball like that with a 2 5/16" head on it pulling 14,000 lbs.

.
Glad you brought that up, since there may be those that don't check weight limitations of individual components. Those traders are generally limited to loads of 8,000 pounds or less. - plenty for our bumper-pull uses since any heavier trailers we have to move are goosenecks.
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Old 02-19-2014, 09:12 PM   #24
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The "old guys" called it staking, Bob. So do I altho I'm only 66. Almost any pointed punch will work, including cup nail sets. I'm not enuf of a worrywart to use it on the shank of a trailer ball.

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Old 02-19-2014, 09:22 PM   #25
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Thanks Jack, I'd forgotten the term. I don't do it on trailer balls, but occasionally find somewhere to use the method. Also a useful method to tighten the fit between two parts. Been 45 years since I worked with those old timers!
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:04 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Glad you brought that up, since there may be those that don't check weight limitations of individual components. Those traders are generally limited to loads of 8,000 pounds or less. - plenty for our bumper-pull uses since any heavier trailers we have to move are goosenecks.
When I was looking at the Curt ones in the store the other day - yup Francesca they did catch my eye the balls were each individually rated just as they are if purchased separately. The 1 7/8 ball had a 3500lb rating which is what caught my attention as thats a bit higher than most 1 7/8" balls I have seen - I have one thats 3000lbs and recall having a hard time finding it as 2000lbs was the more common in that size.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:58 AM   #27
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I have to agree with Jared. I've never had a hitch ball loosen up but I do like the idea of Loctite. Anything you can do to ease your mind can't hurt. Early in my towing years I used to change ball sizes for different trailers I had. Finally got smart and changed all the ball couplers to 2"...even on the little 4 x 8 foldup I still have.
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Old 02-20-2014, 02:17 AM   #28
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I've got the "Convert-a-Ball" 2 stingers and 1 7/8, 2 in. Balls 2 in. rise and same plane. The "bolt" has a cotter pin hole. I wish I'd bought 3 or 4 of them back when I got it the set was under $20 then now dealers want over $20 for any part. I've got 2 or 3 lacing pliers and wire too. I had to lace my machine guns (M60, 242 ) in the Army. The 242 was more critical to be done right.. 25 mm Chain Gun. If it came apart really bad day.
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