Safety wiring your nuts….

[mary and bob]

Originally Posted by starbrightsteve

Some folks will reject this solution but...it will work! After the nut is torqued, take a heavy punch and a heavy hammer and wack the thread closest to the nut. Maybe even do it in two places. A spot weld will also work!

This was common practice when I worked at GE as a maintenance machinist. We generally used a prick punch. The old time machinists I worked with did things in a unique way.

[Jim Bennett]

I too need different drop heights and ball sizes. Could be over worrying, but I don't think I could trust a ball like that with a 2 5/16" head on it pulling 14,000 lbs.

But, if you always used the same drop height for your ball mount, and pulled a couple different lightweight trailers, then that multi-headed ball might just be the thing.

[Francesca Knowles]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I too need different drop heights and ball sizes. Could be over worrying, but I don't think I could trust a ball like that with a 2 5/16" head on it pulling 14,000 lbs.

.

Glad you brought that up, since there may be those that don't check weight limitations of individual components. Those traders are generally limited to loads of 8,000 pounds or less. - plenty for our bumper-pull uses since any heavier trailers we have to move are goosenecks.

[rabbit]

The "old guys" called it staking, Bob. So do I altho I'm only 66. Almost any pointed punch will work, including cup nail sets. I'm not enuf of a worrywart to use it on the shank of a trailer ball.

jack

[mary and bob]

Thanks Jack, I'd forgotten the term. I don't do it on trailer balls, but occasionally find somewhere to use the method. Also a useful method to tighten the fit between two parts. Been 45 years since I worked with those old timers!

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles

Glad you brought that up, since there may be those that don't check weight limitations of individual components. Those traders are generally limited to loads of 8,000 pounds or less. - plenty for our bumper-pull uses since any heavier trailers we have to move are goosenecks.

When I was looking at the Curt ones in the store the other day - yup Francesca they did catch my eye the balls were each individually rated just as they are if purchased separately. The 1 7/8 ball had a 3500lb rating which is what caught my attention as thats a bit higher than most 1 7/8" balls I have seen - I have one thats 3000lbs and recall having a hard time finding it as 2000lbs was the more common in that size.

[Borrego Dave]

I have to agree with Jared. I've never had a hitch ball loosen up but I do like the idea of Loctite. Anything you can do to ease your mind can't hurt. Early in my towing years I used to change ball sizes for different trailers I had. Finally got smart and changed all the ball couplers to 2"...even on the little 4 x 8 foldup I still have.

[Darrell in Al]

I've got the "Convert-a-Ball" 2 stingers and 1 7/8, 2 in. Balls 2 in. rise and same plane. The "bolt" has a cotter pin hole. I wish I'd bought 3 or 4 of them back when I got it the set was under $20 then now dealers want over $20 for any part. I've got 2 or 3 lacing pliers and wire too. I had to lace my machine guns (M60, 242 ) in the Army. The 242 was more critical to be done right.. 25 mm Chain Gun. If it came apart really bad day.

[C&G in FL]

In my experience of 40 + years of towing, I think Jared is right on. I check the ball for tightness every time I tow. All of my trailer balls were torqued to the specified value, I did not use Locktite, and I have never found one to have loosened.