I've had my Scamp
5er for a little over a year now, and I've had it on my list to build a Scamp-to-Gooseneck adapter so I'll be able to use the same hitch that I do with several other trailers that I own.
I do think that a Gooseneck hitch has several advantages over the Scamp
hitch (and one disadvantage). Here are some advantages:
- Convenience: If you have other trailers, as I do, the Scamp hitch is yet another hitch that you have to buy, install, and keep up with,
- Space: although its not as heavy as a real 5th wheel hitch, the Scamp hitch takes up as much room in the bed of the truck. The hideaway gooseneck hitches have zero footprint when you're not using them,
- Weight: my Scamp hitch is homemade and it's heavy to lift into the bed of the truck. The Gooseneck hitch is mounted underneath the bed floor and stays in the truck.
- Cost: The Scamp hitch can only be bought from Scamp and it's $600. Gooseneck hitches can be bought on ebay for $150-$300 depending on which one you choose.
- Logistics: It adds a level of complexity when you get ready to sell, you have to coordinate the installation of the custom hitch with the buyer versus just saying "come get it".
A Gooseneck does have one disadvantage from the Scamp hitch in that it's not as easy to line-up the Gooseneck hitch. I use the trailer line-up markers, you could also install a convex mirror to help in lining it up.
Now, back to the adapter.
Here is a list of materials and costs:
- Gooseneck coupler ($100, ebay),
- two feet of 3" square tubing ($17, local steel supply),
- four feet of angle steel ($10, local steel supply),
- 2" ball ($11, ebay),
- Three Grade 8 bolts ($6, Tractor Supply).
I've got a guy that works for me around here that did most of the fabrication; I probably paid him $100 for his labor. All in all, I've probably got about $350 in it. If you have the equipment and the skills to do it yourself you could have saved the $100 labor. Also, if you didn't need the hitch to be adjustable, you could just buy the gooseneck coupler/latch and fabricate the rest (and probably save half of the $100 I paid for the whole coupler assembly).
I chose to remove the coupler latch pin that came with the coupler because it used up about 6" of the possible height adjustment. I replaced it with a simple pin and key from Tractor Supply.