Scamp Brake Drums Not Centered? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-17-2014, 05:21 PM   #15
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What Paul? I see my quote dear but no words from you?


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Old 07-17-2014, 05:27 PM   #16
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Wendy glad to hear you can now go back to enjoying camping and not worry! Girl you continue to amaze me as to how much you are wishing to learn and understand about your trailer. Don't be surprised if you get a PM from me in the future asking for help!!

Paul, I also adjust my brakes each time I go out. One I get the trailer out of the driveway and on a flat road with little traffic near my home I do a few fairly low speed stops. I set them up until I feel the trailer bunny hop then I adjust them down a little until all I feel is a bit of a tug from the trailer when the brake pedal is fully down. Once on the road and the brakes are well warmed up I may have to adjust them down a little again though - more often than not I need to adjust them down if I have been in lots of stop and go traffic on the freeway and using the brakes a lot.
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Old 07-17-2014, 05:41 PM   #17
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HA ha! You are the smart lady I referred to in my earlier post on this thread Carol! I'm just detail oriented and curious. I don't stop till I understand. You're just smart: full stop! And by the way, I guess I do the same thing as you with checking my brakes each trip. I just thought I was dumb and often turn them down when I feel Scamper being too noisy or bunny hopping as you say. It's all learn by feel and observation to me as a teacher, I go by gut.

Anywho, it's just persistence you see. I try hard like Avis. You're the brains of the outfit girl. I like ya.


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Old 07-17-2014, 07:37 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
What Paul? I see my quote dear but no words from you?
Are you saying that the quote (pasted in italics) shows, but no other text?

Here are some words from me: You are doing great, looking after details and learning. I second what Carol just said. Soon you will be dispensing advise and help based on your experience!
Paul
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Old 07-17-2014, 07:52 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Paul, I also adjust my brakes each time I go out.
I should have added in my post that I assume that the brake controller setting could be altered inadvertently during regular use of the TV, that is when it says n.c. (not connected). Another thing to test out some day when hooking up for a trip.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:43 PM   #20
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Thank you Paul for your kind words. I use FGRV for mobile on my iPhone and yes: all I still see in your post is my quote in italics. Maybe it appears properly on regular computer internet?

I hope very much to help others as I learn and experience the Scamper. Bless you all!


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Old 07-18-2014, 07:54 AM   #21
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Re-post of #14:
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Originally Posted by Paul O. View Post
He also said that I adjusted my brakes properly and they'll be a bit more grabby until things settle in.
That sounds reasonable. If the brakes have not been used for some time, the drum surface could be rusty and behave differently. They may also act differently after you adjusted them. It is good to adjust the brake controller at the beginning of every trip. They say get to 25 mph (on dry pavement) and activate the trailer brakes. If they lock, back off, if not, increase the voltage until they do, then back off, to be just a little below. My mechanic says "you will feel when the trailer is pushing you, or doing all the work". I am not sure I can tell because of my limited experience, but I am trying to watch how the rig reacts to whatever I do with it. The key is to drive so you always have plenty of room to slow down gently anyway. It is safe and reduces wear and tear - a double benefit.
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Old 07-18-2014, 08:17 AM   #22
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Strange Paul. I get all your posts via email as I have my phone set up to notify me. So I did get your post that way. But when I go on the site via my phone, just the italics again. I closed out the site in my phone and reopened but same thing. Never had this before so must be something with my phone or this site using the mobile app.

Thank you for the instructions and support to all of you ( Harvey, Carol and you Paul. ). Lots of questions as this is my first summer with Scamper. I know, I'm so original with names.


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Old 07-18-2014, 08:26 AM   #23
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I'll probably get in trouble for asking another unrelated question on this thread from the moderator, but we are already talking and you're all smart. One day I was scanning threads to learn and I thought I saw a post from Floyd about using black foam weatherstrip for around your Scamp door?

I ask because this is the last problem query I seen to have found this year. I have the gray stuff on my 2012 and it has peeled away in bottom near wood threshold of entryway. I see Scsmp sells kit for 8 bucks but is this the stuff or do you know if Floyd was talking of another you're aware of?

The marine fabric in the bottom of my door gets wet when it rains and I attribute this to the pulled away foam seal. Could always just glue it up with this outdoor loctite adhesive I bought, right?


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Old 07-18-2014, 03:10 PM   #24
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The foam seal on the bottom of my door was half torn when I bought the Scamp early last year. When I visited Scamp last summer, somebody there suggested that I use the hollow black seal all the way around. I bought a long piece of it from them on the spot. It is possible that the foam would conform better, but it also tears easily and looks dirty most of the time.
The pictures show what I had to do to patch it; it is not the cleanest solution, but it works. The right hand side of the door has this steel hook that helps to keep the bottom of the door closed tight. That is where I had to use some thin white foam tape in layers until I got the dimensions right and also some white RTV (the evil silicone kind, I am afraid - sorry). Then I also used some tape on the surfaces that have a tendency to slide when opening and closing. So far that has kept the marine fabric (aka "rat fur" on this forum) pretty clean and dry even driving through a lot of rain. That tape is a thick nylon tape with strong adhesive that can be probably found in catalogs like MSC or Grainger. I had it for decades, got it once as a sample for cheap repair of slides (ways) in machinery.
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Old 07-18-2014, 05:11 PM   #25
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Hi Paul,

I knew what kind of stuff you were referring to even before I saw your pics. However, went to Scamp site under tapes and trims and I don't see it listed in there.

Stopped at home today ( camping about 15 miles away) and picked up my loctite outdoor adhesive and dome goo gone to get rid of current goo. If I'm looking in wrong section in parts store at scamp would you please advise? I'm gonna try to fix this here while camping, till I hear from ya at least I can give this a shot. Don't like how rat fur on door lower gets wet.

And btw, don't worry. I'm not the silicone police. Due to accident, my trailers metal window frame took a bad ding and it was either that or a leaky window or deal with money and work of a new when silicone waterproofed dinged deal just fine. Smile.


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Old 07-18-2014, 05:28 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by CampyTime View Post
I knew what kind of stuff you were referring to even before I saw your pics. However, went to Scamp site under tapes and trims and I don't see it listed in there.
If you call Scamp and ask for it they have it. They just do not list it in the on line parts department. I got it from them and so happy I did. Replaced the foam due it constantly drifting around the door about 4 times - so far the rubber one is about 2 years old and no problems - also looks better.
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Old 07-18-2014, 06:04 PM   #27
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Here's my glue job. The can Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByFiberglass RV1405724576.062066.jpg
Views:	3
Size:	131.5 KB
ID:	73814below aided in the work. . Hey Carol, what does Scamp call the stuff and did you take off the old adhesive with goo gone? Used a razor blade too and didn't get it all.


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Old 07-18-2014, 06:57 PM   #28
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Hollow profile door gasket with the adhesive and the red release tape is what I would call it. And I am also surprised they do not have it in the on-line part store. If you had a piece of it you could probably match in an automotive parts store.
Did you roll it on with that can?
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