Scamp Rear Receiver Hitch - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-11-2010, 04:55 PM   #15
Junior Member
 
Name: Larry
Trailer: 2010 13 ft Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 26
Hi Raya, Joy, and all those following this thread.

We weighed our Scamp (totally empty, just factory).
And we weighed our tow vehicle (fuel tank full, vehicle totally empty, no people).
Weighing was at a Certified Automated Truck "CAT" scale at a Pilot gas station.

Here's the results: Scamp weighs 1460# (1240# camper axle + 220#tongue)
Car GVW (3950#) - car weight (3040#) = 910# available for passengers and cargo.

Now, according to our vehicle owner's manual, our car can pull a trailer weighing up to 1500#, and they recommend the tongue weight be 10-15% of the trailer weight. (trailer weight is defined as trailer axle plus tongue). (15% x 1460# = 219#) As far as the 910# available for passengers and cargo, the vehicle owner's manual says that the tongue weight (220# in my case) counts toward the cargo. ie, the 910 is reduced by the 220# to 690#.

Sounds simple enough, except here's what's confusing: The tongue weight (220#) is being counted twice (Once as part of the trailer weight that can be pulled, and again as part of the cargo that can be carried). I can't see why this should be. My interpretation is that the 220# should be counted as EITHER cargo or trailer weight.

Why is this important, and isn't this splitting hairs ? When you're on the edge of everything (What the tow vehicle can pull, what the tow vehicle can carry in cargo, and what the hitch tongue load limit is (Category 1 is 200#), then it comes more into play. If I'm within specs, even near the limit, things should be OK (but great caution should be used). If I'm over spec, then I need to assess whether a larger tow vecle is needed.

My assessment is the camper should count as 1240# (leaving 260# towards the 1500# limit), and the tongue weight should count towards the cargo, leaving 609# for passengers and cargo.

Now, back to the bike rack. If the bike rack and 2 bikes weight 125-150#, then the camper will be around 1390#, leaving room for about 110# more weight I could add to the camper. And as I mentioned in an earlier post, the bikes and rack will reduce the tongue weight, which is already a little over the 200# spec (of course I'll measure the tongue weight and keep it over 10% of the trailer weight).

Whew !!! I hope this makes some sense. Please give me your feedback.
__________________

__________________
Larry Singer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2010, 05:29 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
Raya's Avatar
 
Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,014
First of all, thanks for reporting back on real world weights

Okay, so your Scamp weighs 1460# empty and your car is rated to tow 1500#. Wouldn't that pretty much nix it right there? I mean, it's pretty hard to go camping with less than 41# of gear. And yeah, 1501# would probably not kill the car, but it seems like it would be nearly impossible to keep it under 1700# or more.

Adding a hitch, bike rack, and bikes would then bring you up to around 1875# (if you are saying bike and bike rack would weigh 150#, then say 25# for the receiver hitch and metalwork on the camper). So that is nearly 25% over the towing limit for your car, and that's packing very light (I bet I have more than 200# of gear in mine, and I'm a light packer).

This seems to make the tongue weight question not really matter, although I can see why you are curious, and of course one wants these things to make sense regardless! Here is my thought:

1) You know you have to count the tongue weight as part of the trailer weight you are towing, because even though that weight is not on the axle of the camper, you are still pulling it forward (and trying to stop it) with your car. So that makes sense.

2) The second time you are counting the tongue weight seems to have to do with how much weight the vehicle's suspension can support. In other words, it's weighing on the rear springs, shocks, etc.

So maybe it's not really that you are counting it twice, but more that it affects two different parts of the tow vehicle (engine/drive train/transmission/brakes in propulsion and stopping vs. rear suspension/tires in weight sitting on them) in different ways, and you have to account for both of those.

It's really a shame you were given a weight of 1250# when the camper weighs nearly 20% more than that --- empty (1460#). You would have been cutting it awfully close with the 1250#, but the 1460# makes it impossible to tow within your vehicle's rating in the real world (i.e. no-one tows a perfectly empty trailer down the road to go camping).

Again, thank you so much for reporting back, and I'm sorry that the real weight puts a wrench in the works.

Raya
__________________

__________________
Raya is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2010, 11:57 AM   #17
Junior Member
 
Trailer: 1997 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 24
I had a receiver welded to my Scamp 13 before we left on a three week, 7500 mile trip. The receiver was from Scamp, approx 12" long. A welder added a piece of square steel tubing to serve as a cross piece support between the frame rails, then the receiver was welded to the bumper and to the cross piece.

I had three unicycles and a rack mounted in that receiver for the entire trip and had zero problems. No additional sway issues, welds and receiver held up fine. I do believe that the weight at the rear of the trailer helped counter hitch weight which was likely a little much for our Highlander loaded as it was; this was part of my plan.

I do not think a bolt on unit would be a good idea, there is just too much side to side movment and if the receiver slipped, it would tear up your camper something fierce.

Cost for the receiver was ~$50, welding and materials another $200.

Having your bikes between the vehicle and trailer is a pain in terms of clearance and access, plus it adds to hitch weight.

__________________
Ben Kadas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2010, 09:38 AM   #18
Junior Member
 
Name: Larry
Trailer: 2010 13 ft Scamp
Michigan
Posts: 26
Quote:
I had a receiver welded to my Scamp 13 before we left on a three week, 7500 mile trip. The receiver was from Scamp, approx 12" long. A welder added a piece of square steel tubing to serve as a cross piece support between the frame rails, then the receiver was welded to the bumper and to the cross piece.

I had three unicycles and a rack mounted in that receiver for the entire trip and had zero problems. No additional sway issues, welds and receiver held up fine. I do believe that the weight at the rear of the trailer helped counter hitch weight which was likely a little much for our Highlander loaded as it was; this was part of my plan.

I do not think a bolt on unit would be a good idea, there is just too much side to side movment and if the receiver slipped, it would tear up your camper something fierce.

Cost for the receiver was ~$50, welding and materials another $200.

Having your bikes between the vehicle and trailer is a pain in terms of clearance and access, plus it adds to hitch weight.
Thanks VERY MUCH for reply. I guess you know that a receiver from Scamp costs only $75. And a 2" to 1 1/4" reciever tube that's 11" long is available from Harbor Frieght for $9.95.

It's very easy to put a bathroom scale under a 2x4 cut to put the ball part of the tongue at the right height (same height as when attached to your tow vvehicle). ie measure height of bottom of tongue at ball when attached to TV. Then put a 2x4 on top of scale and measure from ground to the measured height. Cut the 2x4 at that mark. ie this is all common sense. unhitch camper, raise tongue with crank, slip scale and 2x4 under tongue, lower crank until scale is fully engaged, but don't raise crank very much, as the whole camper may shift, and if the crank isn't too high, the camper will simply come to rest on the crank support.

I did this (camper totally empty of everything) and had my wife observe the scale (which was 220#), while I carefully stood/balanced on the rear bumper with my entire weight (not that easy to do). This would approximate 2 bikes (38#each) the bike rack (40#), and any hitch material needed for a receiver (34#). this totals 150#, which is what I weigh (that's where the 34# came from (150-38-38-40=34). When I did this, the tongue dropped from 220# to 130#. I realize this is all very approximate, and the bikes would hang further back and reduce the tongue weight even more, but this is all very ballpark. I just wanted to see the approximate result. If I do this, then we can build the tongue weight back up to something reasonable (say #150-#180) with camping gear up front.

Another note: As previously mentioned, it would be easy to put a horizontal link/brace between the vertical part of the bike rack and the camper to help stabilize all that weight hanging on the bike rack. This brace could go from the bike rack to the camper belly band, or to the spare tire attachment studs.

In fact, I saw a bike rack on an SUV mounted soley to the spare tire mounting studs. It was a "Thule". I wonder how strong the Scamp (or others) spare tire mounting is ? Probably not strong enough.

Larry
__________________
Larry Singer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-15-2010, 04:17 PM   #19
Moderator
 
Pam Garlow's Avatar
 
Name: Pam
Trailer: U-Haul 1985
Michigan
Posts: 3,220
Registry
I saw something that I am seriously considering. Add a reciever to the front of the tow vehicle and mount the bike rack there. See link for photos.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseacti...id/21596758.cfm
__________________

__________________
Pam Garlow is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
scamp


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hitch Added To Rear of Casita Patrick M. Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 16 06-21-2011 09:46 AM
Installin rear hitch on Boler Pat C Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 8 04-25-2010 02:29 PM
"U-Hitch" Rear Hitch Receiver Tim Ryce Modifications, Alterations and Updates 9 03-12-2009 05:05 PM
Front mount receiver hitch for the truck rudock1 Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear 11 05-21-2008 02:38 PM
Hitch receiver and spare tire carrier BobB Modifications, Alterations and Updates 14 10-10-2007 12:22 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.