Scamp tire wear - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-05-2013, 01:42 PM   #15
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Myron, if you do purchase new hubs, you can replace them with 5 lug bolt pattern, but you would need to purchase new wheels also. If you do purchase these items (either 4 or 5 bolt pattern) and this does not solve your tire wear problem, you can still reuse these items by just ordering a bare axle that fit your particulars. I had replaced our axle with a Flexi-ride and used our old hubs, bearings, brakes and wheels. This solved our problem and afforded me to be able to adjust our ride height in just 15 minutes.
Good luck.
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Old 06-05-2013, 01:58 PM   #16
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My bet is the axle ( suspension ) is shot. Lack of a correctly working suspension, in this case, it's mostly bottomed out, is causing the tires to be slammed and overloaded every time you hit a bump.
How old is the axle ? If it's approaching or exceeding ten years old, the rubbers in it have likely perished.
Now having said that, I fully expect a legion of users to come along and say their ten year old torsion axle suspension is as good as new. Franchesca will be along shortly with her samurai dude to chase me off stage left.
All I am saying is I deal with various horse trailers, and I see a lot of them that are sacked out in ten years or less. YOur mileage and rubber thingies may vary.....
.... carry on folks.....
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:15 PM   #17
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I got slamed for saying this: The arm on our camper is angled down and yours are level. Look inside your wheel wells to see if the tires have rubbed up top side. It could be that the flex axle is worn out.

Our camper arms are not level and there is room for them to flex up without hitting the wheel well.

The major thing is to see if the tire was rubing on the underside of the wheel well. I would speculate that a worn out axle would show some tire rub every time it hits a big bump.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwin Maring View Post
The major thing is to see if the tire was rubing on the underside of the wheel well.
So am I the only one that can see rubbing marks on the wheel well in the photo posted by the OP????
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:38 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by gmw photos View Post
How old is the axle ? If it's approaching or exceeding ten years old, the rubbers in it have likely perished.
Now having said that, I fully expect a legion of users to come along and say their ten year old torsion axle suspension is as good as new. Franchesca will be along shortly with her samurai dude to chase me off stage left.
.
looking at it I would guess its the original axle which based on the age of the trailer would make it about 27 years old. So might be safe from the samurai dude this time George - but I cant promise you!
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:48 PM   #20
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My axle shows no sign (old other welding scars, grind marks, etc.) it is other than an original factory install. However, Scamp's Owners Guide states, "3000 pound axle used on 16 foot with 10" brakes...etc " but goes on to claim a five bolt pattern whereas I got a 4 bolt pattern. Wonder if this is an indication of any significance.

Those black marks inside wheel well? If caused by a tire rub I can detect no actual sign of abrasion to the fiberglass skin like as if the tires were touching. Clearly, though, those black marks are rubber-ish.

I like the idea of buying a bare axle and re-using my brakes and hub, etc. but wonder if it is wise. Do I want to go and spend $600+ to fix the issue? No I do not. (Feeling kinda cornered .)
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:05 PM   #21
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I reckon some these kinds of issues are a good news/bad news kind of situation. You all have these FG trailers, and like Airstream trailers, they seem to last a good long time. That's of course the good news. The bad news is there are going to be some consumables, like suspension parts, that are simply going to have to be replaced occasionally.
My little stickie I'm sitting in right now, will probably fall apart before the suspension gives up the ghost. So there we go, life is full of tradeoffs.
In your case Myron, I would just go ahead and buy a new axle, complete with new brakes, get some new wheels and tires, and plan on enjoying the heck out of this little jewel for a whole bunch more years. And even if you end up selling it in a few years, the new components will be a definite selling point, no doubt resulting in a higher selling price.
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:34 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Myron Leski View Post
. However, Scamp's Owners Guide states, "3000 pound axle used on 16 foot with 10" brakes...etc " but goes on to claim a five bolt pattern whereas I got a 4 bolt pattern.
Is the manual you got that from the original with the trailer or the one Scamp has on line now? Scamp has made some changes to axles and hubs used over the years I know my 92 has a 5 bolt pattern but looking through older photos of some 80's 16' trailers it appears they may only had a 4.

Based on the age of the trailer I would say if you need a new axle your best to replace the hub and brakes as well. I replaced the hub and brakes on mine a few years ago due to their over all condition even though the axle was/is not bad enough to need replacing yet....
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:55 PM   #23
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With the tires on and trailer hitched to TV have someone bounce on back bumper while you watch the hub, axel and tire.


You will see tire hub moving up and down and how much OR you will see nothing but tire wall flex because the rubber is so shot you have no suspension.


If you step on the back bumper without hitching to TV the trailer will probably try to "stand up" on it's hind legs. Don't ask how I know.

Hard to tell but that cupping looks pretty even. Not sure if suspension bounce cupping would be that evenly spaced. As Byron pointed out low inflation can cause cupping because tire "wiggles" as it goes down the road, wiggles tend to be even.

How old are the tires? Age can cause hidden breakdown of inner ply that can lead to tire wiggle and cupping. Tires are typically only good for 4 or 5 years no matter what the tread wear.

Dog tracking where trailer tows straight but offset a little to one side can cause cupping, tire will tend to scuff on curves and corners. Having someone follow behind is easiest way to spot that. So called because some dogs run with back end moved sideways to keep rear legs from running into front legs.

And one really odd thought - do you have a 1 7/8 inch trailer hitch on a 2 inch ball? Hitch might go on but be too tight and so drag the trailer tires on curves. I have trailers with both and have hooked up small hitch on bigger ball. Felt wrong latching so I caught it but am pretty sure I could have continued if I had used a little more force to latch. And 2 inch is more common size.
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:03 PM   #24
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I honestly don't know where I got that owners manual-- cannot find an original copy and do not have a cover sheet, which tells me I must have downloaded from Scamp and printed seleced pages. I noticed other discrepancies, like their listed wheel bearing part number was different from what fit in the hub when I changed the bearings.
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:28 PM   #25
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I had that on my car once and it was because the wheel was being gouged by the fender well. Looks just like that.
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Old 06-05-2013, 06:44 PM   #26
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I had that on my car once and it was because the wheel was being gouged by the fender well. Looks just like that.
I have seen fender/wheel well rubbing as you describe cause that type of wear on a car also. I would have expected more damage to the FG wheel well for the amount of tire wear I think I see in that picture. But as someone else pointed out if it's hitting top of well at all it's probably too bouncy from shot rubber in axel.

One nice thing about replacing the axel, if you are willing to replace hubs you can use larger tires if you order axel with enough down angle. Get some additional height. and decide how stiff you want the suspension to be. Still pretty good chunk of money, I would want to bounce test before spending it. Improve the odds the expense would fix the problem.
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:07 PM   #27
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Myron, my 1988 had an Alko axle with four stud wheels. It died, it was eating tires... replaced it with a 3,500 lb axle, five stud 4x5.5 wheels.
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:09 PM   #28
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In the 80's Scamp was installing 2.2K axles on Scamp 16's. They have 4 lugs, 7" brakes and (I think one inch) straight spindles. The 3500# axles have a stepped spindle with 10" brakes and drums. Like the PIC. If you had a Dexter axel you could verify what you had with Dexter from the data tag. You won't be able to use your current equipment with a new 3.5K stub axle if yours is a 2.2K axle.
All the dead 2.2K axles on S-16 I have seen are like yours in the 0 degree position. With a new axel you can order it with ez lube hubs, and a 2" rise and bolt on brackets so when you replace it 25 years from now you can just bolt on the new axle.
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You can order which bolt pattern you want.
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