Scamp tire wear

[RogerDat]

Think leaf spring - as weight is applied the spring flattens a bit. A worn out leaf is already flat spring so it would not flatten any more.

A couple of people have already mentioned this but it's worth repeating. If you replace the axle purchase the bolt on brackets with it. The bracket is welded to the frame, the axle then bolts onto the bracket. I think it's easier to position a small bracket true and weld it than it is to position a whole axle true and weld that. Plus the next axle replacement is a bolt on job, not a welding job.

Yeah I know it's not for another 10 to 15 years but hey you ever notice how many of these are 30 years old and still being used? Someone will appreciate it.

I would also have axle done professionally unless your pretty sure of your skills, they measure and order part, it's probably going to be right and if it's not you don't have to eat the axle cost. People that do this for a living or have years of experience tend to do it well. So they are worth paying for.

[Jared J]

I got mine from scamp, price was reasonable, they had the right brackets to weld to the frame, axle fit right the first time, and they sent all the frame pieces I needed to raise the camper higher, all cut to perfect length.

I just had to burn everything in, and bolt the axle on.

More than a few people on here have had the first axle a shop ordered be wrong. Getting it from scamp saved me all the bs. Just my $.02.

[Roy in TO]

[QUOTE=RogerDat;393458]
The only "adjustment" is done when it is manufactured, and that is what angle the arm with the hub spindle is connected to the rubber in the axle at, or down angle.[QUOTE]
They also adjust camber by bending the axle tube. Many newbies see the bend in the tube and think their axle has been bent through an untoward event. Though I'm not an engineer, I wonder if the up or down angle actually affects caster and is part of the reason for each manufacturer to recommend a certain angle for optimum function of the axle.

You can see how the axles are made here: Making Henschen Axles Tour

The first page of the tour shows the range of motion of the torsion arm. Although the numbers will vary by manufacturer and axle rating there should be some movement between the "no load", "normal load" and "extreme shock" positions, as pictured. Most manufactures provide the specifics for the values. My observations are that a fully functioning torsion axle should typically have about a 3" range of motion.

Originally Posted by Myron Leski

So um...therefore, the only physical proof the axle is shot is rubber marks inside the wheel well and - "eaten" tires?

I posted an explanation of what to look for a few years back here:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...arm-37248.html

I think consensus is that a torsion axle is meant to last about 15 years. One can extend the life by preventing deformation of the rubber by keeping the total weight off of the axle during storage. The rubber provides both spring and shock properties. Although on a normal spring axle the springs last longer than 15 years, the shocks will need replacement before the spring wears out.

I like to think of the torsion axle as single unit like a macpherson strut rather than a separate spring and shock. On a macpherson strut you replace the whole unit rather than a separate component.

[honda03842]

I had cupping on a tire. It was caused by the bearing nut not being tight enough allowing the tire to wobble.

I jacked up the trailer jetting the tire off the ground. I could take the sides of the tire and wobble it a little by hand. Took off the bearing cap and tightened the nut one location and every thing now aok with a new tire in place.

[Roy in TO]

I like simple solutions like check the bearing play.

[MyronL]

Check out today's axle close-up. Could I have just found the smoking gun I need?

[Carol H]

LOL how many smoking guns do you need? you already have at least 4.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

I like simple solutions like check the bearing play.

Back on Post #13 the OP wrote:

"Was no play in the hub, suggesting the bearings are good. They were well packed."

[MyronL]

So Carol, that's a "yes?"

If the play's the thing, there was no play.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Myron Leski

So Carol, that's a "yes?"

If the play's the thing, there was no play.

Well if you are looking for a Yes in so far as eliminating another possible cause for the bad tire wear other than the axle being shot then you have and your back to the 4 smoking guns pointed at the axle.

What you have confirmed by indicating there is no play in the wheel is you dont have a smoking gun pointed at:
1) shot wheel bearings
2) under tighten bearing nut

You currently have 4 smoking guns pointed at the axle:
1) 27 year old axle
2) low riding trailer
3) Tires hitting the wheel well
4) Uneven tire wear.


Myron, Roy has given you some great links with lots of info and advise on how to do a simple bounce test on the trailer to confirm the axle is shot should you need another smoking gun.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Myron Leski

Check out today's axle close-up. Could I have just found the smoking gun I need?

It looks like the arm has pulled out slightly, but I'm not sure how this translates into cupped tires. Is it loose inside the tube with the rubber elements?

[MyronL]

New axles, new brakes, rims, tires........ like the doctor told me, now don't worry, you are just going to feel ...a little pinch. My reply was "....oh, doctor!"

Spoke with my axle guy. I will tow the trailer to him Monday.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by Thomas G.

It looks like the arm has pulled out slightly

It sure looks like maybe a piece of rubber is hanging out too. I'd be interested in knowing if there is a measurable difference from one side to the other. Say from the outside of the torsion arm to the mounting bracket.

If you are getting a new axle spend the extra few $$ and get the bolt on kit. That will turn the next axle swap into a driveway job rather than a trailer guy job. Saving a few hundred the next time around.

If you get the trailer guy to put on a new axle, see if he will cut the axle in 1/2 a few inches in and get a picture of the rubber. I'd like to see the distortion after that many years. It might make it easier for others to understand the problem of the axle looking good from the outside.

[MyronL]

He will. If I had the means to safely weld the bolt-on brackets on I would do it, but I do not. Anyway I am concluding having a pro do the entire job is worth the extra cost. Some nights I hear voices whispering in my ear it has been many moons since I was invincible.

For what it's worth, here's the other axle side. By the way, I absolutely agree these posts are pointless if they are not clearly teaching something.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by Myron Leski

New axles, new brakes, rims, tires........ like the doctor told me, now don't worry, you are just going to feel ...a little pinch. My reply was "....oh, doctor!"

I know you dont think it but those of use with older trailers feel your pain.... its a reality all of us with old trailers need to have to face at some point. The good news is if you ever sell the trailer in the future you will get your money back due to it having an newer axle. In the meantime looking at the old tire wear it might not be to far fetched to suggest that with a new axle and with a nice new pair of radial tires you find you get better MPG's as well while towing.
Now go have a stiff drink! I know if it was me I would!

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Roy in TO

I wonder if the up or down angle actually affects caster...

Caster only applies to suspensions that steer. If this was supposed to say "camber"... no, I don't see how the arm angle of a fully trailing or leading suspension would affect camber. A semi-trailing suspension (like the Al-Ko Euro Delta Axle not available here) is another matter entirely.

[MyronL]

3500 pound Torflex axle, complete with 10 inch electric brakes, EZ lube
3 new white wheels, 5-pin, new radials balanced.


Towed it home from Moriarity Pipe & Iron, this afternoon. New axle, oriented 10 degrees, created a comfortable 3½ inches of space from top of tire to wheel well. Glad to now be in the 21st century with the bigger brakes, 5-pin wheels, etc.

Sorry Roy, couldn't get my axle guy to cut the old axle in half like I hoped. Just wasn't a good time to ask for it. I should also mention total bill for the work was $873.69, including axle special delivery freight charge of $96. Thought that was quite reasonable. Note old axle beside the Scamp in the yard picture.

[Roy in TO]

That's OK Myron,
I am starting to believe that axle guys have a thing about not wanting to cut them in half and let us see what is happening inside. It must be a cult secret kind of thing.

Looking forward to hearing how she tows and how the tire wear works out a few more miles down the road.

Happy Camping

[MyronL]

Towed beautiful on the 8 mile drive home. As usual, had to remind myself it was back there. The old axle brakes never worked so was an abrupt but nice surprise to see the green light on the Tekonsha. Don't think, however, I will ever get used to not being able to snap my baby moons on the new wheels.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Myron Leski

Towed beautiful on the 8 mile drive home. As usual, had to remind myself it was back there. The old axle brakes never worked so was an abrupt but nice surprise to see the green light on the Tekonsha. Don't think, however, I will ever get used to not being able to snap my baby moons on the new wheels.

My trailer is two years newer than yours Myron. I replaced the axle several years back... I have no regrets. It tows so smoothly now compared to the "before." Do you have the ole "standard" white wheels now? I bit the bullet and had wheels made so I could run beauty rings and hub caps. You know, a gal has to do what a gal has to do.. It's all about visuals!