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05-30-2008, 03:15 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Trailer: 2008 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 19
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Hi. I just towed a 16 foot 1989 Scamp with my 2007 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab 4x4. This vehicle has a 6 cyl engine and has the TRD off road package. It has 6600 miles on it. Had I known the problems I would have after towing this I would have first bought the right electrical hookup. After searching at 4 locations in Hopkins, I finally went to Northern Hydraulics. I bought a TAP 37595adapter. This is a 7 hole RV blade to a 7 hole pin type according to the package it came in. Once hooked up to my truck, the right signal worked, the left signal turned on both signals at the same time.
After getting back home I discovered that I could not put my truck into drive, reverse or anything. I now have to manually push down on a small button to the left of the gears to be able to drive it and put it in drive. Each time I drive it I have to do this. Now the signals on the truck don't work and a sign on the front which means bring to a Toyota dealer immediately flashes. The soonest I can get my truck in is Wed. of next week.
Does anyone know what I did wrong and how to stop it from happening again? Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Doris
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05-30-2008, 04:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 88 Scamp 16 ft
Posts: 196
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Quote:
Hi. I just towed a 16 foot 1989 Scamp with my 2007 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab 4x4. This vehicle has a 6 cyl engine and has the TRD off road package. It has 6600 miles on it. Had I known the problems I would have after towing this I would have first bought the right electrical hookup. After searching at 4 locations in Hopkins, I finally went to Northern Hydraulics. I bought a TAP 37595adapter. This is a 7 hole RV blade to a 7 hole pin type according to the package it came in. Once hooked up to my truck, the right signal worked, the left signal turned on both signals at the same time.
After getting back home I discovered that I could not put my truck into drive, reverse or anything. I now have to manually push down on a small button to the left of the gears to be able to drive it and put it in drive. Each time I drive it I have to do this. Now the signals on the truck don't work and a sign on the front which means bring to a Toyota dealer immediately flashes. The soonest I can get my truck in is Wed. of next week.
Does anyone know what I did wrong and how to stop it from happening again? Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.
Doris
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It sounds like something was either faulty with the adaptor, or the wiring on either the truck or trailer. It seems to me that there was a short that has blown the fuse to your brake light circuit on the truck. This would explain the reason you have to use the release switch next to the shifter. With the trailer disconnected, check the truck tail light and brake light functions.
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05-30-2008, 04:32 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Trailer: 2008 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 19
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Quote:
It sounds like something was either faulty with the adaptor, or the wiring on either the truck or trailer. It seems to me that there was a short that has blown the fuse to your brake light circuit on the truck. This would explain the reason you have to use the release switch next to the shifter. With the trailer disconnected, check the truck tail light and brake light functions.
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Hi. Thank you for the quick response. The brake lights and tail lights work. A friend checked the fuses and couldn't come up with anything. He may not have checked them all but did check the ones he thought might be out.
Doris
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05-30-2008, 06:05 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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I do know one thing for sure Doris, you can say way to much to the Toyota people and wind up holding the bag.
If it were me, I would take it to Toyota and say “It just stopped working” and not mention anything else and let them fix it under their warranty program.
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05-30-2008, 06:14 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Trailer: 2008 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 19
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Quote:
I do know one thing for sure Doris, you can say way to much to the Toyota people and wind up holding the bag.
If it were me, I would take it to Toyota and say "It just stopped working" and not mention anything else and let them fix it under their warranty program.
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Hi. Well I reckon you are correct. I did open up my mouth and say that I had towed with it etc. I told them just what happened thinking that it would be covered under warranty anyways. I think that I will cancel the appointment and take it to another Toyota dealer for repair and will heed your advice.
Thank you so much for your reply.
Doris
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05-30-2008, 06:22 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita
Posts: 136
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Toyota's require a resister type of thing for wiring to work, Its a small item and they usually take off a tail light and install it there. I had to do this with a Tacoma and my 4 runner. Its a very common thing and any u-haul or hitch shop can do this for you. Hope this helps. Let us know what the fix is
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05-30-2008, 07:17 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1971 Astro (ie. Campster/Hunter I)
Posts: 437
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Call a hitch company...or uhaul, I think you need the 3 to 4 wire converter box, the tailights can in some models interfer with the abs brake computer and the interlock system.
Harry
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05-30-2008, 10:27 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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That button you now have to use to shift gears isn't really a concern, more of an annoyance than anything else. Best get it checked and fixed at a dealer (IF you feel the need), but just say it just started acting this way. I doubt the trailer exceeded towing ratings for your vehicle but when dealing with a company best be safe then sorry. Just plead 'dumb', LOL!!!!
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05-31-2008, 07:41 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: Boler 1300 1977 (#2033 L EGGO)
Posts: 268
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Hi,
I had a very similar problem with my '04 Camry V6. That "push the button to shift" gambit is related. Toyota told me the wiring harness (installation of which they had contracted out for me) was fried. They sold me, and install it themselves, a pricey new harness.
After other electrical problem fixes, that may or may not be related, I think all is now in order, but haven't been out after dark yet for a final check. Good luck to you.
Des
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05-31-2008, 08:19 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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That button thing should work when you put your foot on the brake. By putting your foot on the brake it sends power to move the pin that keeps you from putting it in gear. This came about to prevent you from driving your vehicle accidentally through the garage door.
So, check your fuses, especially your brake light fuse, to insure you do not have a burnt out fuse. This is an easy thing to do - look in your vehicle book to find out where the fuses are.
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05-31-2008, 05:58 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
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Most modern vehicles that I've messed with have at least two fuse panels, one under the hood and one inside the passenger compartment. Owner's manual should show you where they are.
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06-01-2008, 02:40 PM
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#12
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Junior Member
Trailer: Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 5
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Doris,
Total shot in the dark here. I recently had the rear window replaced on my '05 4runner and after the repair the glass shop couldn't get the hatch to close. They had messed with the latch so they could run the window up and down with the hatch open, apparently this confused the vehicle computer(s). I disconnected the battery for 30 seconds and re-connected it to "reboot" the computer and the problem was fixed. Perhaps a "reboot" might help your problem.
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06-01-2008, 04:44 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
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A great idea.
Please read owner's manual on how to drive after rebooting the computer. It will be in a learning mode and will learn faster and better if certain guidelines are followed.
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06-01-2008, 05:20 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1970 Campster
Posts: 253
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While I was readying my Toyota Highlander so that I could purchase a FGRV, I learned from the trailer company that installed my receiver hitch that you must purchase the wiring harness from Toyota. I almost bought one online from Northern or JC Whitney because they sold some that supposedly would work on my vehicle for a lot less than what Toyota wanted. However, the trailer shop guy confirmed that wiring harnesses manufactured by other companies will not function properly on a Toyota because Toyota intentionally designed their system so that you would be forced to purchase the harness from them just to get more money out of your pocket. The trailer shop guy told me to pick up the harness directly at Toyota and did not even attempt to get me to purchase something from him. Perhaps this is at the root of your problem with the Tacoma? Good luck.
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06-02-2008, 04:28 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Trailer: 2008 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 19
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I would like to thank everyone for your thoughtful postings. You have all been very helpful. I no longer have the Toyota but a different vehicle.
Doris
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06-02-2008, 05:46 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
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That's OK, we all learn from these kinds of posts. I now know something I didn't before about Toyota wiring.
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06-18-2008, 08:37 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Trailer: 1992 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel Deluxe
Posts: 16
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I tried to use the same #37595 7 blade to 7 pin adapter, also purchased from Northern, and found it is not compatible with the wiring scheme on a 1994 Scamp 5er. If I recall correctly the tow vehicle aux power was connected to a Scamp tail light, and one of the turn signals was connected to the Scamp running lights. I'm not sure what would have happened if I would have pressed the brakes!
Rather than trying to figure out which wires were crossed, I just cut off the 7 pin plug that was on the Scamp and installed a standard 7 blade plug. The adapter went back to Northern.
Pat
Wow! My first MFROG post!
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06-18-2008, 09:18 PM
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#18
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Administrator
Trailer: Casita 1999 17 ft Liberty Deluxe
Posts: 10,948
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Way to go, Pat. You've been hanging out here for a year, so nobody can say you posted without first figuring out what we're all about!
(And a belated welcome!)
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06-22-2008, 10:21 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Trailer: 2008 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 19
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Now that I have a different vehicle I am afraid to tow my scamp. The Chevy dealer where I bought the 08 Silverado said to drop by with the Scamp and they would put a new electrical hook up on it that would work.
I called the Scamp dealership yesterday and they said that I may have a short in the Scamp now. Could that have happened just by hooking up the wrong stuff to my Toyota Tacoma when towing it home? I know that it was after I towed it that I had all the problems with it which I now understand that I should have bought a unit from the Toyota dealer to tow the Scamp with.
Does anyone have any suggestions on towing with the Silverado?
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06-22-2008, 11:26 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita 17 ft Spirit Deluxe
Posts: 509
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If the Silverado is tow ready (i.e. has hitch receiver and 7-wire plug at back bumper) all you need is the adapter cable for you brake controller and a fuse.
If it has no hitch receiver that you have to add one.
If it does not have the 7-wire plug then Chevrolet has an adapter that plugs into a distribution panel under near the rear wheel well. Then you have to add the fuse to the fuse box on the left side under the hood.
__________________
CD and Joyce Smith - Lily, Violet, and Rose
1999 Casita 17' SD - "The Little Egg"
2007 Escalade - 6.2L V8 - 6L80E Trans - 3.42 Diff
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