Shank length on draw bar --longer or shorter? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-31-2015, 07:36 AM   #29
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Name: Norm and Ginny
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Post 3 - Harvey's Post and Picture

I'm also a believer in getting the load as close to the rear axle. I believe in tow vehicles with short distances from ball to rear axle and moving the ball as close to the axle as possible.

Look at the picture of Harvey's ball for example in post 3. You could pull the pin on Harvey's ball and shove the ball's shaft further into the receiver by maybe 2 inches. Mark the spot and have a new hole drilled.

This picks up a few percentage of improvement for virtually no cost.

Small thing but in the correct direction.

One year the Lakers had the best basketball team but did not win the championship. The next year the coach's position was to get every one to improve by 1%, small stuff possible for every one, small stuff that makes champions.

Also I don't believe in the use of pins with spring clips in critical positions. I have seen a spring clip fail. Also evil hands can create a disaster. We use a key locking pin in this critical position.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:20 AM   #30
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[snip]

Also I don't believe in the use of pins with spring clips in critical positions.
[snip]
Also evil hands can create a disaster. We use a key locking pin in this critical position.
X2, My hot water heater door with a metal latch suspiciously aome open after stopping at a rest stop with a bunch of 18 wheeler's

I also put screws in my 2 plastic refrigerator covers for that reason
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:24 AM   #31
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Considering the vey low tongue weight allowable, and the small FGRV Ellpea will be towing, IMHO, all this talk of adding air bags, changing spring rates or considering a self leveling system is, pure and simple, a lot of Hooey.


I have towed three different 13' FGRV's substantial distances, with three different vehicles, two of which had very low towing capacities, and never needed to even consider suspension modifications. It's almost like saying that putting 150 lb. sack of sand in your trunk, or two extra adults in the back seat, is going to have a drastic effect on handling. Just isn't so.


And I see that the fears of the "resonant frequency", and the results of towing with now 40+ y.o. vehicle designs, are again rearing their ugly heads.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:30 AM   #32
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If that is all the weight transfer needed, that's why. It is a cheaper, simpler, lighter solution. You don't always need the biggest hammer...
Do air bags actually transfer weight? Seems to me all they do is stiffen the rear suspension to maintain a level ride, which is all that's needed if the tongue weight is within the manufacturer's hitch weight and rear axle capacities. But perhaps I'm misunderstanding how they work...
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:31 AM   #33
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"ONLY" 1/2 the value if a WE hitch. Actually that is quite a lot.
Also a part of the benefit of the WE hitch is the added friction of the bars and force on the ball etc.
Just a little info for anyone who is curious and would like a little more information.
All advice worth price charged.


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Old 08-31-2015, 10:43 AM   #34
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The WE above is part of the Samsung auto correct.
Another thought or wonderation is if the added stress from the WD hitch contributes to the cracking of three frames on these light trailers?
A contributing factor is the built in flex from the cut down doorway adding stress to the other side.
Not as visible is the cracking on the top of the tube that passes under the doorway. This is hard to see without having the floor out.
At least as much force has to be transferred to the trailer frame as the TV frame.
This would mean that the weight on the trailer tires is higer, especially when the pair are traversing a dip in the path.
These trailers have pretty light weight tubing forming the frame.
The Scamp was originally 14 gauge and later they moved up to 12 gauge or about 1/8 inch.
I used 12 gauge on my rebuild for this reason and my right side under door tube was split where it attached to the front tongue.
The left side was broken and poorly repaired at the bend as well.


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Old 08-31-2015, 12:29 PM   #35
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I have air bags on my Tacoma 4X4 and they are handy for hauling heavier loads without the trailer too. They can be used to level the truck when hauling a load when the load is heavier on one side of the bed.
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Old 08-31-2015, 07:50 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
Considering the vey low tongue weight allowable, and the small FGRV Ellpea will be towing, IMHO, all this talk of adding air bags, changing spring rates or considering a self leveling system is, pure and simple, a lot of Hooey.


I have towed three different 13' FGRV's substantial distances, with three different vehicles, two of which had very low towing capacities, and never needed to even consider suspension modifications. It's almost like saying that putting 150 lb. sack of sand in your trunk, or two extra adults in the back seat, is going to have a drastic effect on handling. Just isn't so.


And I see that the fears of the "resonant frequency", and the results of towing with now 40+ y.o. vehicle designs, are again rearing their ugly heads.
Not quite the same since the 300 or so pounds is not in the trunk or in the rear seats, but rather is 6 inches or so behind the rear bumper.
Kind of like that generator on the rear bumper of a trailer with the weight too far back.
The key is the g force it takes to shift the handling from understeer to oversteer. The additional stiffness in the rear helps to keep this under control.
Also the roll coupling is affected especially with the ride height lower and more if the rear end is a solid axle where the roll center is at ground level.
But this gets more complicated and it is beyond me explaining.
I used to fool around with a few race cars and back then we towed them with pickups and cars.
No matter what I try to explain will irritate someone, so I think I will just let it go.
By the way before I go the air bags don't appreciably shift any weight, but they do correct the geometry and set the caster and camber correctly on the front since the car is level. If the rear is IRS then the geometry would be improves for ti as well.
Basically if you are not towing with a nice truck and a WD hitch you are doing it wrong, Why bother with a small light trailer in the first place if this is the case?
As Bob said with the light trailer it is most probably not an issue.
tow more and worry less. especially since the Volvo has no air bags available!
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:49 PM   #37
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Quote: "Basically if you are not towing with a nice truck and a WD hitch you are doing it wrong, Why bother with a small light trailer in the first place if this is the case?"


Care to explain that to the vast majority of us on this site why we are all doing it wrong?
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Old 08-31-2015, 09:31 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Basically if you are not towing with a nice truck and a WD hitch you are doing it wrong,
sure hope this is being said tongue in cheek.

If not I would suggest perhaps a test tow with something other than a truck might be in order.

Don't get me wrong I like my truck but I would not hesitate to suggest that there are a number of alternative vehicles that can and will provide a fair more stable and enjoyable tow of a 13' or 16' fiberglass trailer under all weather conditions without the need for a WD or airbags to keep it all together.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:29 AM   #39
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I'd be happy to not only tow more, but to tow at ALL! Our receiver and drawbar are all sorted, but the struggle with the plugs continues. I appreciate Bob Miller's help today; he even called the trailer service for me to help explain what needed to be done!

Anxiety is beginning to ensue. Will this rig be ready by Friday? I'm no longer certain.
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