Single Bar Weight Distribution Hitch - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-01-2007, 04:20 AM   #15
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Gina, if the folks you've seen are struggling with a WDH, then they don't have a clue what they're doing. It's a quick and easy job that shouldn't require any "back" at all to make work. If you REALLY want to be spoiled by the height of luxury, buy yourself a power tongue jack. It's worth EVERY penny you spend and in fact makes hooking up absolutely a no-labor, no pain proposition.

Roger
Roger, a question please, Gina says that the rear of the Jeep sags a little....would air bags in the rear of the Jeep fix this problem....just a short shot of air (10-30lbs) will greatly help the ride height. What do yu think...lots easier.

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Old 03-01-2007, 06:25 AM   #16
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Robert, first and foremost, I am NOT a hitch or suspension 'expert' and I don't hold myself out as such. I just have lots of miles under my tires towing a variety of travel trailers with a variety of tow vehicles over the years.

Airbags would level the tow vehicle, but not do anything about the weight on the axle nor deal with any of the subsequent handling issues that potentially arise as a result of that weight.

There's an excellent discussion about weight distributing hitches here:

What does a Weight-Distributing Hitch do...

Roger
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:07 PM   #17
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Airbags would level the tow vehicle, but not do anything about the weight on the axle nor deal with any of the subsequent handling issues that potentially arise as a result of that weight.
Actually, while I agree that added air springs (including bags in the coils) do not change the load on the axle, they do address some of the handling issues, by increasing spring stiffness, including roll stiffness. My Sienna certainly handles better with heavy loads in the back (even without a trailer) with the air added, but is better without the air when empty. It's a matter of being able to adjust the suspension to the load.

I'll leave WD hitch issues to that other discussion.
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:59 PM   #18
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Air bags or helper/overload springs would indeed level the body of the TV, but unlike a WDH, they don't redistribute weight to put the suspension back where it was designed to be.

That said, as Brian has pointed out, they will improve handling to some degree because the suspension in the rear is stiffened and doesn't tend to wag about as much.

But, these devices are only dealing with one single aspect of the suspension system (rear springs) -- They are not helping front springs, steering, toe-in, caster/camber, torsion bars, tires or axle capacity -- The weight, and all of its effects, is still right there on the rear of the vehicle.

BTW, air springs or air bags come in two flavors; one goes inside coil springs and the other go 'inside' leaf springs -- Both kinds supplement the original springs and are adjustable.

Helper, or overload, springs are usually additional leaf springs that come into play when a sufficient load sinks the original past their normal range.
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Old 03-15-2007, 11:56 PM   #19
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I just bought a Reese single bar hitch and finished a 4 day 400 mile trip. Honestly, I see no apparent value from having the hitch. I towed my 17' Casita with a U-haul hitch and ball before.

I went through the set up procedure according to the instructions and measured all the spots they tell you to on the vehicle and trailer before AND after installing and adjusting the WDH. It didn't raise the level of the rear of my TV, didn't lower the front of the TV, and only raised the hitch height about 1/3 inch!

$400 down the drain. So much for WDH's (at least the single bar variety). Anybody want to buy some snake oil?

Greg
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Old 03-16-2007, 12:09 AM   #20
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Mine maks an incredible difference with my Jeep Liberty. What are you driving? You May not need it!

I paid 285 and another 30 to have it installed.
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Old 03-17-2007, 07:31 PM   #21
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Hey Greg:

Just how many pesos would you be lookin at for some o' that thar 'used' snake oil?
P.M. me IF you're interested....K?
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:52 PM   #22
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Hey Greg:

Just how many pesos would you be lookin at for some o' that thar 'used' snake oil?
P.M. me IF you're interested....K?
Towing a 17' Casita with a 2002 Ford Ranger 4.0L. I'm going to hang onto the hitch for now and tinker with the adjustments. Honestly, it does seem to smooth out the highway bumps a little but that's about all I've noticed.

Greg
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Old 03-18-2007, 03:41 AM   #23
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http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/rvs/293725911.html

Some one is selling a load leveling hitch for $50....................I did not check it out.......
LOL



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Old 03-18-2007, 10:56 AM   #24
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Our Trillium 'follows' behind our '37 Plymouth hot-rod quite nicely but I have tire rubbing issues with the rear suspension. I have changed off the rear springs for new units, replaced the air shocks with new ones. What I am trying to do is keep the cars fenders from cutting the rear tires. I was told that a single bar equalizer hitch would help spread the weight between the car and trailer and thus raise the rear of the car to a more managable height while towing. A two bar set up I'm told would be overkill. If I can't get the rear fenders up high enough off the tires, I MAY have to resort to locating a narrower Mopar rear end and adapt it to fit the (fairly narrow) confines of the Plymouths body. I might add that the rear suspension work was done last fall and as yet I have not road tested the set up to see if the work performed is going to be enough to cure my rubber rubbing issues....
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Old 03-18-2007, 11:11 AM   #25
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quit rubbing it! It will get infected!!!!

I got the single bar because I thought it would be easier for me to use (It's like Buttah!) and yes, 2 bars would be overkill for my whimpy in comparison with others Tongue Weight.

No, I still haven't measured the weight yet, but as mentioned, since my rig and Per's are danged near identical, his #s are what I went by. (I have more dog toys to compensate for, but he has a wife. OK, maybe mine weighs a tad more....)

All I can say is "All the science, I don't understand... it's just my tug two days a week...)
It makes a world of difference and is certainly worth the $$ and extra 2 minutes to hook up.

The ONLY issue I have with it is that because these were designed for a center mount jack, they purposely swing it down to allow clearance. It hangs pretty low, but I haven't used it enough to run into any problems.

We'll see when I pull into a gas station today. I'll take pictures of the process when I get hitched up. Right now, I am enjoying my coffee after a nice shower YAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 03-18-2007, 11:14 AM   #26
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Doug, I don't think it's going to matter whether the rear of the tug rides higher because it has more spring (the air) or less load (WDH) - in a static situation.

While driving, if the outer shoulder cutting on the outer fender lip on the inside of turns, maybe lateral distortion is part of the problem. In that case, the WDH could help, although my guess is that axle is the one in your rig most capable of handling load... besides being the one that needs the traction for control. In this case, would more tire pressure help?

WD systems seem to be rated by hitch weight. Their operation has nothing to do with hitch weight, but it makes some sense because rigs with higher hitch loads are likely to want to use more re-distribution force. The Reese single-bar is not much different in rating than the same brands lightest two bar (which not not their common two-bar, and is actually rated for lighter trailers than the single-bar), so I think "a two bar setup" is just not specific enough.

I suggest at look at Reese's Light-Duty WD page. Valley/Husky also has a low-capacity model, but the company doesn't like to provide information about their products... they do post an image of a catalog page. (See their Browse Pages link and choose Weight Distribution). I think only the spring bars change between Valley's weight ratings, which means the rest of the hardware would be excessively heavy and bulky for the application.
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Old 03-18-2007, 11:40 AM   #27
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Gina:
A cautionary note here: As far as tongue weight is concerned it should be noted that I have two group 31 batteries mounted just behind the wheels, not on the tongue. Then there is the 31 miles (and counting) of wiring........
My twin tongue battery boxes contain the stabilizing jacks and sewer hoses only. I would be surprised if your weights are close to identical, especially the tongue weight. After I glued on Frederick's rubber duckie I notices more rear suspension sag.
On the other hand my AC setup is probably somewhat lighter than yours. Too bad California doesn't have the drop-in-and-weigh-it-for-free places scattered along the highways.
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Old 03-18-2007, 05:51 PM   #28
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Per, they do, you just have to find the lonely chp officer on the lonely desert hiway who is bored silly. He will weigh you. (I had my 13 weighed that way once.

I meant similarly equipped. Battery on tongue.. AC on the back may balance things.. I dunno..

This I do know...

I measured with and without the WDH. I get rid of 2" of squat with the WDH. I would like to get a little more, but the guy adjusted it so that the "Pull em up" on the bar is at the limit of my abilities to pull the bar over, even with the tongue jack pushing up as much as I can get it to go. (There is a limit to my strength) A breaker bar would be helpful, I could have they guys at work make me one.

Here are pics of the squat before.. keeping mind that this was taken with the trailer completely empty. as stock as it gets. You can see the squat clearly, even tho it isn't horrible.


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Here it is after I hitched up today. Fully loaded as I normally would for travel. (Sans water)

Quite an improvement. Nice and level, with maybe a hint of tongue downward motion.
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