|
|
12-15-2011, 09:28 PM
|
#1
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 1988 16 ft Scamp Deluxe
Posts: 25,710
|
So you think you don't need trailer brakes?
... I encourage you to think with your wallet.
I've mentioned many times that no trailer brakes becomes a maintenance issue for your tug...
Yesterday I spent $599.67 on brakes for my tug... and my trailer has brakes. Merry Christmas to me... NOT. I had saved that money for new technology. A new 64gig I-POD or new laptop or maybe a I-PAD... sigh... not this month. Stopping safely is more important. AND, my trailer HAS brakes. That's redundant... but, do you really want to spend money unnecessarily? Ask YOUR mechanic what replacing the brakes your tug would cost... from simple (pads, shoes) to the expensive (replace calipers and/or drums). Let THAT be your decision, not just the fact your tug CAN stop your trailer. If you're a reasonable garage mechanic you may find you can replace drums/shoes on your trailer for less than $100 a side. $200 is 1/3 what it cost me to replace the brakes on my F-150. I HATE to think how frequently I would be spending that money if my trailer didn't have brakes. YMMV
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 12:36 AM
|
#2
|
Senior Member
Name: Alice
Trailer: 2018 Casita SD - Kondo A-Go-Go
Utah
Posts: 502
|
Donna, just out of curiosity....How many miles did you have on that set of brakes? And about how many of those miles do you thing you had towing? I'm only trying to put things in perspective. My '03 Honda CRV had 96K on it when I traded it in for the Subie, and I was still on the original brakes. But, I didn't tow, and I did alot of Interstate driving. The Subie has about 47K on it right now. When it was inspected last June, the brakes were still very good. Sorry you got hit at this time of year. Auto maintainance doesn't have holidays. You did the right thing.
__________________
Alice
KONDO A-GO-GO - I GO WHERE I'M TOWED
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 12:56 AM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2007 19 ft Escape 5.0 / 2002 GMC (1973 Boler project)
Posts: 4,148
|
Hi: Donna D... "Ooh Ooh Ooh Ooh...Merry Christmas Santa".(Beach Boys)
Our '95 Taurus tug just ate up a $600.+ set of tires, $350.+ brake rebuild, and $130.+ new battery. HAPPY HOLIDAYS TOO!!! Almost 60,000mi./100,000kms including two seasons of tuggin' a Boler 13'er w/out brakes. Trouble is at this time of year all these costs were necessary for safety and reliability of winter driving.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 01:48 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Name: Daniel A.
Trailer: Bigfoot 17.0 1991 dlx
British Columbia
Posts: 741
|
Keep in mind folks that the terrain we drive makes a big difference, mountain driving will eat brakes.
That price sounds fair Donna.
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 11:16 AM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
... I encourage you to think with your wallet.
I've mentioned many times that no trailer brakes becomes a maintenance issue for your tug...
Yesterday I spent $599.67 on brakes for my tug... and my trailer has brakes. Merry Christmas to me... NOT. I had saved that money for new technology. A new 64gig I-POD or new laptop or maybe a I-PAD... sigh... not this month. Stopping safely is more important. AND, my trailer HAS brakes. That's redundant... but, do you really want to spend money unnecessarily? Ask YOUR mechanic what replacing the brakes your tug would cost... from simple (pads, shoes) to the expensive (replace calipers and/or drums). Let THAT be your decision, not just the fact your tug CAN stop your trailer. If you're a reasonable garage mechanic you may find you can replace drums/shoes on your trailer for less than $100 a side. $200 is 1/3 what it cost me to replace the brakes on my F-150. I HATE to think how frequently I would be spending that money if my trailer didn't have brakes. YMMV
|
I just did brakes all the way around on my Ranger, new rotors, new drums, and Raybestos best brakes including complete spring kits.
At 145,000miles this was second time for front pads and the first for everything else. The bill was about $100 per corner, using the best name brand parts. Could have done it much cheaper with lesser parts from AutoZone.
My trailer has original 7" brakes with around 55,000miles(still good). Somebody on here found a complete kit for 7" trailer brakes, reportedly for less than $150.
I have found that town/city driving is what results in the most brake wear, highway driving yields more miles, trailer or not.
We moved last year (only across town) and all those short trips resulted in considerably less than average distance from this last set of brakes.
While every driver's results will be different, I doubt that brakes on a thirteen would result in a measurable savings on tug brakes, certainly not enough to pay for them,but that's not entirely the point is it?
Of course the smaller the tug, the greater the impact.
Your point is still an ounce or two on the "trailer brakes" side of the scale...all things considered.
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 11:30 AM
|
#6
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 145
|
I for one recommend brakes purely on the ability to engage them manually from the tow vehicle. There are many conditions or factors that can induce sway and many items that can assist in reducing the possibility. As far as I have found none of those items can stop sway if it happens. The manual mode on the brake controller will engage the trailer brakes allowing the tow vehicle to re-gain control as the pulling force. I for one hope to never have to manually engage my trailer brakes but hate the thought of "I should have gotten brakes" riffling through my head in an emergency.
Years ago on another forum a member added a friction bar to their rig. They tried to induce sway and were successful. Their advice: First and formost do not ever try and induce sway! Secondly, get trailer brakes because that's what saved their lives.
At first I thought, of course I would never try and induce sway, but I'm not in control of everything. An odd set of circumstances can put any of us in danger instantly. Being prepared is the best we can do, regardless of the outcome.
-John
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 12:03 PM
|
#7
|
Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
|
I do most of my own wrench turning and unless they replaced everything I think you got beat up. If you went to the Ford dealer then you would be beat up for sure. My '93 Toyota is still running the original rear brakes and the second set of front pads, I don't tow much with it but I do have a pretty heavy foot. Donna, I know that you have the mechanical knowledge to have been able to do it for less money but sometimes we just don't want to do it.
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 12:22 PM
|
#8
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Burro 17 ft / 2001 Toyota Tundra V8 2wd
Posts: 339
|
I replaced my trucks front brake pads for $60. Granted I do my own work, but it's really easy to change pads on disc brakes. Unless the rotor is warped there's no need to replace them. I pull my rear drums on every tire rotation to inspect and have yet to change the brake shoes.
One tip I have is to flush your brake system every few years with new fluid, that keeps moisture from being absorbed and makes the seals last much longer in the calipers and master cylinder. Brake parts aren't that expensive, it's the labor that kills you.
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 12:41 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg H
I do most of my own wrench turning and unless they replaced everything I think you got beat up. .
|
My brothers Ford F-550 crew cab had a rear caliper seize up and burst. He lost the rotor as well. He was (insert expletive) at the dealer for $2500 for just the back brakes. Good thing the company pays.
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 01:07 PM
|
#10
|
Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston
My brothers Ford F-550 crew cab had a rear caliper seize up and burst. He lost the rotor as well. He was (insert expletive) at the dealer for $2500 for just the back brakes. Good thing the company pays.
|
I can believe that, Toyota tried to sell me a $400.00 caliper and I reminded them that I already had the truck and I only needed a caliper, I went to NAPA and saved about $350.00.
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 06:15 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: 2008 13' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 325
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
Somebody on here found a complete kit for 7" trailer brakes, reportedly for less than $150.
|
That would be me I ordered them from r and p carriage. They're on ebay. They've arrived at my sister's house just across the border and as soon as I feel like risking sitting in the Christmas border lineup I'll nip down and pick them up. They were $148.00. For that price, for me, it was a no brainer if it was worth adding them. If I only have to use them once in a panic stop it'll have been worth it to me.
Ron
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 08:05 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 728
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel A.
Keep in mind folks that the terrain we drive makes a big difference, mountain driving will eat brakes.
That price sounds fair Donna.
|
Mountain driving should not eat brakes. Brakes are not intended to control your speed, that's the job of the engine. Whether you are driving in the prairies, uphill or downhill, don't hesitate to use lower gears in your transmission to control your speed.
-- Dan Meyer
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 08:32 PM
|
#13
|
Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 93 Burro 17 ft
Oklahoma
Posts: 6,025
|
Good brakes are a necessity, not a luxury item. Donna, sorry you can't get some new toys this season but I know that the peace of mind you will have every time you hit the brakes is worth more than the toys. I just had the front brakes done on my Highlander this past Monday, rears were done 10K miles ago... that's the first new set of brakes on it and it is now at 106,000 miles. There was no question in mind about spending the money, I hardly gave it a thought, because I knew how vital good brakes are. Mine were about $200 per axle at the Toyota dealer.
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 09:43 PM
|
#14
|
Senior Member
Name: Andrew
Trailer: Modified Trillium Jubilee
Ontario
Posts: 240
|
IMHO
Regarding the cost; what you don't spend on your tow vehicle brakes, you will spend on your trailer brakes. Taking the same quality of pads / shoes they will wear out the same the same $ when you grand total all the wheels. Callipers will fail due to unuse than "over use" - that's why typically rear wheels / trailer brakes seeze more often than the front do. As it is, at the moment, all the maintenance I need on my trailer axle is looking after the wheel bearings being tight and greased. I don't want to add to that $ on the trailer brakes that rust because they are used so rarely compared to my TV.
Safety; with 750 lbs on the axle of my trailer behind Rainier, I'm simply not worried about the stopping power. When it comes to sway control... when you need brakes to control the sway, you are already too deep in... you know what. Proper weight distribution and hitch set up are the key. Well, maybe not. The real key is to know limitations of your skill and towing set-up and to stay well within it.
As always, YMMV but, that is the way I see it.
__________________
I wish to be one day at least half as good as I think I am today. Andrew Kalinowski
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 10:06 PM
|
#15
|
Senior Member
Name: Roger
Trailer: U Hall VT
Michigan
Posts: 438
|
I have a UHaul VT, with out brakes right now, but before february it will have all new hubs, electric brakes, and my TV is a 1500 chevy van with a Vortic 350, some states like California have weight limits where brakes are required, 1500# I think.
|
|
|
12-16-2011, 10:10 PM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Name: Roger
Trailer: U Hall VT
Michigan
Posts: 438
|
I will get my brakes from R & P like Ron did, the price is real good, and the people are very nice.
|
|
|
12-17-2011, 12:04 AM
|
#17
|
Senior Member
Name: Daniel A.
Trailer: Bigfoot 17.0 1991 dlx
British Columbia
Posts: 741
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Meyer
Mountain driving should not eat brakes. Brakes are not intended to control your speed, that's the job of the engine. Whether you are driving in the prairies, uphill or downhill, don't hesitate to use lower gears in your transmission to control your speed.
-- Dan Meyer
|
Brakes wear much faster in mountain terrain lower gears only do so much this I've learned after 45 years of driving.
|
|
|
12-17-2011, 12:33 AM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: ,Bigfoot 25 foot plus Surfside 14 foot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,148
|
Mountain driving & brakes
You can control your speed to a certain extent with gears and engine braking .... BUT.... Stopping on a downhill grade (not even necessarily in mountains) is a killer of brakes. Your brakes not only have to overcome momentum but gravity as well!
|
|
|
12-17-2011, 02:39 PM
|
#19
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
|
common sense
This is one of the majority of questions which does not have an absolute answer which fits every circumstance. The combination of the TV and the TT plus reasonable judgement should result in an appropriate answer.
Then there is the law...It is wise to know the law in the area which you choose to tow, they may not always apply common sense, but they do have power and uually love to use it. You can't get fined for having brakes where they are not required.
If you can feel your trailer pushing when braking, that can usually be alleviated with the addition of trailer brakes.
|
|
|
12-17-2011, 02:42 PM
|
#20
|
Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 145
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
This is one of the majority of questions which does not have an absolute answer which fits every circumstance. The combination of the TV and the TT plus reasonable judgement should result in an appropriate answer.
Then there is the law...It is wise to know the law in the area which you choose to tow, they may not always apply common sense, but they do have power and uually love to use it. You can't get finded for having brakes where they are not required.
If you can feel your trailer pushing when braking, that can usually be alleviated with the addition of trailer brakes.
|
Hey Floyd,
Where can you be fined for having brakes on your camper if they are not required. I would like to read the law.
Thanks.
-John
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
Similar Threads
|
Thread |
Thread Starter |
Forum |
Replies |
Last Post |
Trailer brakes...
|
Jan Adams |
Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear |
4 |
12-04-2011 03:02 PM |
Do you have brakes on your 13' trailer?
|
Cam A |
Towing, Hitching, Axles and Running Gear |
64 |
02-11-2008 10:40 PM |
Trailer Brakes
|
Pete Dumbleton |
Care and Feeding of Molded Fiberglass Trailers |
4 |
01-02-2008 01:36 AM |
Trailer Brakes
|
Jen'nBarb |
General Chat |
9 |
08-20-2006 11:53 PM |
Trailer Brakes
|
Pete Dumbleton |
Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners |
0 |
01-01-1970 12:00 AM |
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
» Upcoming Events |
No events scheduled in the next 465 days.
|
|