Solution For Broken Bolt Head in Hitch Mount - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 07-11-2019, 02:49 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd View Post
That looks like an open frame rail.
Is the bolt sticking through into the channel?
That is what I asked in post #10, but didn't get an answer.
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Old 07-11-2019, 02:57 PM   #22
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I'm glad it came out easily. I'm also glad you didn't take my suggestion to weld on to the bolt. The more I have thought about it I believe threads could have became welded to the frame threads If they were not very tight they could have arched during welding. I have done something similar on equipment, but I have used epoxy.
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Old 07-11-2019, 03:59 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raspy View Post
That is what I asked in post #10, but didn't get an answer.
I was late and lazy so I didn't read everything!
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:07 PM   #24
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Weld prohibitions are for Semi truck and straight truck frames.
I have never seen a "Do Not Weld" note for a car or light truck.
Keep your ground tight and close to the weld to prevent electronic damage due to a spike. MIG would be best.
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:38 PM   #25
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The frame rail in the back of the truck is open, but the cross member for the spare tire attaches right at this same point. Getting pliers and a hand to work them through there would probably be more frustrating than drilling the bolt out...
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Old 07-11-2019, 04:39 PM   #26
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I'm just trying to understand why it would break. Lubrication would lower the torque value but I suspect you know that. Any time you torque a bolt you stretch it. Perhaps the lesson is to not reuse bolts that have experienced high torque. Over the years I've had my share of broke bolts, on my back drilling, grinding, etc. so I know where you were at. Thanks for posting.
Yeah, no idea. Could be my torque wrench wasn't working right and I just gave it way too much. Could be the bolt was only meant to be used once. I really don't know. Either way, I'll have two new bolts in there soon.
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Old 07-12-2019, 08:39 AM   #27
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Hidden Hitch no longer makes a hitch for my truck, so it was hard to track down an installation guide...I finally found one. The directions say to torque the front bolts to 60 ft/lbs. That might be it. I think I was trying 90 or 100.

Now it's just a matter of tracking down the right bolt. The local hardware store had some that looked right, but the pitch must be off. I'm going to try an auto parts store and see if they have the right pitch.
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Old 07-12-2019, 02:03 PM   #28
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Next time you go to replace bolts or reinsert them into the frame follow this advice as shown on Etrailer's website. That will help prevent it from happening to you again. But of course no guarantees it won't ever happen again are given or implied.

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-how-to-...weld-nuts.aspx


They even have a video version for those who want to see it instead of reading about it.

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-FAQ-Removing-Corrosion.aspx
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Old 07-12-2019, 02:13 PM   #29
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Thanks Karin.
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Old 07-12-2019, 04:28 PM   #30
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FWIW, the bolt that was in there was metric grade 8.8, equivalent to an SAE grade 5. I replaced it with the equivalent of grade 8, which in metric is 10.9.

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I'm back in business. Good thing I've had a couple week run of house-sitting for all these projects!
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Old 07-12-2019, 05:04 PM   #31
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It is a good thing the head broke off as it was probably already cracked due to over torquing previously.
As to welding High strength low carbon steels used in newer vehicles the problem is that many are heat treated and if welded on the heat treat is destroyed and also often welding creates a heating zone distortion and stress that leads to cracking in the heat affected area.
Most manufacturers recommend that a frame section be removed back to where it si connected with spot welding or bolted connections.
The issue is not that welding will not take, but the frame is no longer in it's proper heat treat state and may crack without warning.
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Old 07-13-2019, 01:37 PM   #32
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FWIW, the bolt that was in there was metric grade 8.8, equivalent to an SAE grade 5. I replaced it with the equivalent of grade 8, which in metric is 10.9.
That explains it. That's why it broke. You should have been using a metric torque wrench scaled in newton-meters.
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Old 07-14-2019, 07:52 AM   #33
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I can't tell if that's a joke..

Either way, a grade 5 bolt torqued 30 ft/lbs higher than the instructions call for may be the reason, not that I know the physics of bolt torques.
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Old 07-14-2019, 08:33 AM   #34
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Every once in a while we get a metric vs sae discussion. Just a joke along those lines.
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Old 07-14-2019, 09:20 AM   #35
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Got it. That one was a little over my head
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:37 AM   #36
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try russian motorcycles, there you get "kilogram force per newton metre"
and what a joy that is to convert to anything remotely understandable

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Old 07-17-2019, 10:47 AM   #37
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Broken Bolt Removal

Having quite a bit of experience removing broken bolts from engine blocks, frames and so on, I will say 1. DO NOT WELD. 2. Try and remove the bolt from the top and if you can not get a grip in the bolt 3. drill out the bolt. The secret to drilling out a bolt is getting the first small hole in the center. If you screw up and do not get it perfectly in the center, don't worry, there is a fix. All you have to do is drill the broken bolt out enough to get a tap in the hole and thread the nut by drilling bigger and bigger. Even if that fails to work, drill out the hole completely and use a new nut and bolt of grade 8 in strength or greater.
Moral of the story is:
1. DO NOT WELD. This presents many issues and takes you down a road that causes issues.
2. remove the bolt from the top
3. drill the whole thing out and use new nut and bolt.
Good Luck
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Old 07-17-2019, 10:52 AM   #38
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If you have to drill for an ezout etc. then the best bet is a nice new left hand twist drill.
many times as you drill the fastener catches on the turning bit and takes itself out.
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Old 07-17-2019, 11:25 AM   #39
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I was thinking about the left hand drill but RB beat me to it. They can be handy. I am glad you did not take the advice to “just weld it”. I have nothing in particular against welding. I do it a lot and under the right circumstances it can work very well. I did not consider your situation the right circumstance. As a last resort maybe, but it may have added additional issues now and in the future. Like not being able to easily take the hitch off or something. You never know what the future might bring, don’t jump right to the “nuclear option”.

Another old trick that I have been surprised actually works sometimes is tapping in a circular motion on the broken piece with a sharp pointed chisel. Believe it or not I have actually backed broken bolt stubs out this way. It is slow and aggravating but just might work. Maybe if open on the other side you could have screwed it on through and out. Just another trick on your tool belt, in addition to welding.
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Old 07-17-2019, 01:10 PM   #40
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A lot of cheap bolts are coming out of China nowadays which will ring off when torqued to the chart value.
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