Spindle, Hub and Wheel Temperature - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-30-2016, 12:57 PM   #15
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Name: JD
Trailer: 1984 Scamp 13'
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More great advice. Just finished a road test with trailer breaking and yes, still feeling hot, both sides. Also, the brakes started to feel "grabby" nearing the end of my 10 mile test. I'll try another test later without engaging trailer brakes.

I partly can't imagine bearings not generating some heat. The idea that after miles on the road the spindle with be at air temperature is not what I'd expect, but very good to know.




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Old 05-30-2016, 01:22 PM   #16
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sounds more like a brake issue to me. do an adjustment, see what happens
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Old 05-30-2016, 03:46 PM   #17
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Castle nut

Too tight and too loose are both bad. We've too loose and it results in strange wear patterns. From what I've heard I'd bet on the brakes.

This is redundant to past posts but we have pressure and temperature sensors on our trailer tires. Watching The read out gives a good picture of what's happening in each wheel.
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Old 05-30-2016, 03:55 PM   #18
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All I can say, is that on my recent trip with a dual-axle Fiber Stream, I checked all four hubs at 100km (60 miles) out and three were cold, and one was slightly warm. At the next check 200 km (125 miles) later, the three were still cold, and the one was somewhat warmer, but I still could keep my hand on it for as long as I wanted. 50km (30 miles) later, the wheel bearing had completely failed on the warm one, and the hub was riding on the spindle. Only the castle nut was keeping the wheel from coming off.


All bearings had been re-packed three years ago, and I always check hub temperatures by hand whenever I fill up. This was the first time any hub felt warm. I had made a mental note to service the bearings when I returned home. Never made it.


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Old 05-30-2016, 04:07 PM   #19
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Have the same scensors on the camper and truck as the Honda post above. For me, the cost is worth the removing of the worry. The receiver will give a warning if the pleasure or temp moves a certain percentage.
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Old 05-30-2016, 04:46 PM   #20
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One thing to check is the new axle comes with the brakes configured to be mounted in a trailing axle position, the Scamp 13 is probably a leading axle design. If the shop did not swap the brakes side to side then the brakes will not work properly and may be sticking partially applied causing the excess heat.
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Old 05-30-2016, 05:08 PM   #21
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Thanks for the tip. We installed the axel with trailing arms.

Found a competent shop upon recommendation. Taking it in tomorrow for a look over. Might just have them start over and install new bearings and brake set up.


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Old 05-30-2016, 06:10 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by JD Eben View Post
Thanks for the tip. We installed the axel with trailing arms.

Found a competent shop upon recommendation. Taking it in tomorrow for a look over. Might just have them start over and install new bearings and brake set up.


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Be sure and let us know what they find! I have "brakes out of adjustment" in the pool
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Old 05-30-2016, 06:57 PM   #23
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Update: This is definitely NOT a bearing issue. I just ran a 16 mile test with all trailer braking disengage. Spindles remained cool, well, cool enough for me to grab them as long as a wanted. I did this trip and test using brakes and the spindles were hot when finished. It appears the braking is causing the heat.

So, now what? I have noticed the while setting up the controller per the instructions, I was not able to "lock up" the trailer brakes by using the maximum power setting. This implies that they need adjustment but not sure how this generated excessive heat.

Is it possible that the spindle heat is just normal for an axel with brakes? Or, what's going on here?


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Old 05-30-2016, 07:23 PM   #24
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....I have noticed the while setting up the controller per the instructions, I was not able to "lock up" the trailer brakes by using the maximum power setting. This implies that they need adjustment
I think you are on to something.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JD Eben View Post
...
Is it possible that the spindle heat is just normal for an axel with brakes? Or, what's going on here?
Well, I have certainly have seen my hubs so hot I could not keep a finger tip on them (from braking) but I have also been able to tell a difference from the outer part of the hub, which is hotter from the brakes, and the dust cover / bearing buddy etc. in the center which stays pretty cool.

I should clarify... the hubs got real hot when the brakes were being used a lot but if driving down the highway, then making a normal stop and checking, the hub would be cool.
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:32 PM   #25
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Hard to lock up a 7" brake drum. Much easier with the 10". My thinking is it depends on the size of the brake surface and the traction of the tires. I can't lock mine. Raz
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:34 PM   #26
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Trailer: 1984 Scamp 13'
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On the Dexter EZ lube, cap at the end of the spindle is not so hot. It's the cast iron piece protruding out through the center of the rim. That's what I'm calling the spindle. The rim near the lug nuts got hot in previous observations.

I think I'll be focusing on adjusting the brakes at this point. I'd feel real proud if I could do it my self. See about adjusting/setting them properly. I've read the service manual and it appears I only need a screwdriver. Never done it before, any tips or tricks to share?


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Old 05-30-2016, 07:35 PM   #27
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Your Scamp has 7 inch brake drums and locking the trailer wheels in a stop using full braking is not going to happen. My Bigfoot has 10 inch drums and full application of the brakes will not lock up my wheels either. I know exactly what the instructions say and I interpret them exactly the same as you do. However, I know from experience that locking them up is impossible.
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Old 05-30-2016, 09:25 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD Eben View Post
Update: This is definitely NOT a bearing issue. I just ran a 16 mile test with all trailer braking disengage. Spindles remained cool, well, cool enough for me to grab them as long as a wanted. I did this trip and test using brakes and the spindles were hot when finished. It appears the braking is causing the heat.

So, now what?
Please refer to my post #20, let us know if the brake backing plates and shoes are installed the correct way around..
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