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Old 08-12-2015, 04:14 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoboy View Post
Sometimes I don't feel the tow at all and I get 18 to 20 mpg.
I suggest you to NOT tow if you don't feel the tow...
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:30 PM   #22
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Looking to buy a 16' Scamp. I have a 2015 Subaru Outback 4 cyl. towing vehicle. It says that it can tow 2400 lbs. safely. Anyone out there know if that will be a problem?
I have the 2011 Outback with 4cyl and CVT it is rated for 2700 lbs....but....only 1350 lbs on long climbs at 104 degrees. (still 200 lb tongue weight though.) I have not looked at the 2015 manual but I would expect they have a similar exception. Better check the fine print in the manual before locking into a trailer. I am still not towing the fiberglass trailer yet with mine, but will find out soon enough how well it will do. For me, I have big climbs if I head pretty much any direction in 1-4 hours of travel, so I am going to try to stay close to the 1350, all up, if possible.

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Old 08-12-2015, 04:37 PM   #23
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Hmmm.... The actual weight of an HC-1 is hard to guess because it will vary so much depending on what boxes (excuse me "Modules") you put inside. But that said, I don't think that there is any way you will ever be close to that 1350 number going down the road. Let us know what you know about it's predicted dry weight.


And thank you for giving Subaru credit for knowing what their vehicles are safe towing.



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Old 08-12-2015, 04:43 PM   #24
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HC1

1100 lbs. dry weight without cubes but with battery and controller, per the brochure and meeting with designer. 12 lbs per cube. Personal gear. Hoping for no more than 1500 lbs. total. (which would mean packing very light). If the Subaru does not work out (which my adult daughter is really hoping for) we will have to consider a different vehicle more appropriate for towing. I will let everyone know how we do as I will be picking it up soon.
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Old 08-12-2015, 04:52 PM   #25
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I always puzzle when someone provides such nice round numbers. Let us know how it works out at delivery, many are wanting to know.


Where are you located in CA?



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Old 08-12-2015, 05:05 PM   #26
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Rounding

Let's hope that Subaru rounded down, and that the HC1 folks rounded up. (probably wishful thinking)

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Old 08-12-2015, 05:46 PM   #27
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I always puzzle when someone provides such nice round numbers.
I often wondered the same thing about auto companies in North America. Why is it all mini vans have a 3,500lb tow rating??

Why is it most cars have a 1,000lb tow rating especially when many of them do so well at towing a whole lot more??????????
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:47 PM   #28
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I often wondered the same thing about auto companies in North America. Why is it all mini vans have a 3,500lb tow rating??

Why is it most cars have a 1,000lb tow rating especially when many of them do so well at towing a whole lot more??????????
"You can fool all the people some of the time, and some of the people all the time, but you cannot fool all the people all the time." Some do see reality.
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Old 08-12-2015, 06:53 PM   #29
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"You can fool all the people some of the time, and some of the people all the time, but you cannot fool all the people all the time." Some do see reality.
..............and you can fool anyone who is intent on being fooled.
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Old 08-12-2015, 07:30 PM   #30
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I'm wondering Norm, why you adhere to the 50 PSI rim rating for your trailer? ( see posts in Scamp 13" Tires thread ).
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:04 PM   #31
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I'm wondering Norm, why you adhere to the 50 PSI rim rating for your trailer? ( see posts in Scamp 13" Tires thread ).
The trailer weighs has about 2400 pounds on the axle, ideally 1200 pounds per tire. I inflate the tires so their capacity exceeds their load.

As well I want the sidewalls to be stiff so side motion of the trailer does not cause the wheel to begin to roll on its sidewall. (Similarly I highly inflate the tow vehicle tires for stiff sidewalls.)

As you drive down the road, though the loading may be even on the flat, roads are uneven and the loading on individual tires increase and decrease as you drive.

We're relatively protective our tires. Tire heating is related to number of revolutions per minute. We're generally drive 55 mph except on Interstates.

We're also early morning drivers. Tomorrow when we leave on a trip we'll leave early, by 8 AM, escaping the high heat of the day.

As well we have wireless temperature and pressure sensors on our tires. Though we're sometimes considered to be 'road dangerous' towing with our CRV we do a lot of monitoring of our trailer while we drive.

As we drive from climate to climate, leaving the cold northeast, we adjust our pressures always carrying a small compressor. We regularly retorque our tire lug nuts.

It all may seem silly to some but we tend towards the cautious side.

I know stiffer tires may result in a rougher ride, we have driven some extremely. long rough roads, we're not back there, we slow down on rough roads and we have latches on most cabinet doors, nothing falls out.
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Old 08-12-2015, 08:41 PM   #32
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Great looking setup !!
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Old 08-12-2015, 10:54 PM   #33
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The CVT has an interesting history and is quite reliable, having been around since 1958. Learned about them in mechanical engineering classes. Fun writeup:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Variomatic
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Old 08-13-2015, 04:39 AM   #34
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Glenn,

I guess I misread your post on tire pressure.

Were you wondering why I follow the rim pressure rating and do not the manufacture's tow ratings?

As to the rim pressure, the number is also the max normal pressure for the tires. (I do realize there is some bulletin that the tires can go to hire pressure for higher speeds. We don't do higher speeds.)

My conclusion is that the primary structure of the vehicles are the same. Tire's may be different, some suspension members may be different, but the structure, the transmissions and the engines are virtually identical. It bothers me that the European rating for our former CRV is more than twice what it is the North America. In NA the rating is the same as for an unbraked trailer in Europe.

I'm not one to live by unfair rules.
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